I've never done any clearance reduction as a stand-alone. Always as part of other work, so I have no personal data.Its been my experience that theres not much to be had in the way of accuracy by reducing bolt body clearance. I know that theres some that would disagree, but I just have not seen it. I used to sleeve bolts and put a lot of work into my own actions. Id like to hear from you guys what improvements you have seen that you can trace directly to reducing the bolt body to receiver clearance.
I have also heard that.I've never done any clearance reduction as a stand-alone. Always as part of other work, so I have no personal data.
I have heard both Jim Borden and Gordy Gritters refer to instances where the sole work done to the rifle was a sleeve or "bumps" on the bolt under the bridge, and the rifle immediately went from dog to darling.
FWIW.
I have experienced some pretty convincing results controlling the bolt fit. I'm sure that we all have seen that rifle that has .010 bolt clearance that shoots dots. There are always outliers. However, over many years of trying to tame unfriendly rifles, I discovered that sleeving the rear of the bolt would usually settle things down and eliminate the maddening flyers. But there were a few that the rear sleeve only technique didn't get the job done. A gunsmith friend has a 6.5 x 47 that had a rear sleeve that continued to shoot flyers until we put a sleeve on the front. It was clear from the first target that it had a profound improvement on that rifle. I had a 6BR that exhibited the same behavior. It had a rear sleeve, but continued to shoot flyers until the front of the bolt got one too.I've never done any clearance reduction as a stand-alone. Always as part of other work, so I have no personal data.
I have heard both Jim Borden and Gordy Gritters refer to instances where the sole work done to the rifle was a sleeve or "bumps" on the bolt under the bridge, and the rifle immediately went from dog to darling.
FWIW.
Anecdotal evidence, my best shooting 700 (HM Long range) has the sloppiest bolt fit. I can remove the bolt while it is in a 40x stock. My other 700s have the same other work, trued action face, parallel lug, bushed FP, same triggers, but this one with a very loose bolt fit just flat shoots. Now I'm well aware correlation is not causation, but it was enough for me not to worry about bumps or sleeving.Its been my experience that theres not much to be had in the way of accuracy by reducing bolt body clearance. I know that theres some that would disagree, but I just have not seen it. I used to sleeve bolts and put a lot of work into my own actions. Id like to hear from you guys what improvements you have seen that you can trace directly to reducing the bolt body to receiver clearance.
Hi Alex.Al, do you think it matters more when it gets extreme? Pandas have twice the clearence of a Bat or Borden and I would not say its hurting them.
Id agree. Bolt body slap caused from lugs that are not square is something thays concerned me. Aluminum is going to be a much better material. I think truely square lugs, not just contact prevents that slap.Hi Alex.
I think (dangerous territory) aluminum bodied actions may tolerate extra clearance due to the reduced vibration signal (as compared to a steel reciever). It's very possible and probable that shroud fit plays into this as well....aluminum or steel reciever.
Your thunks on it??? -Al
If I go back to pandas and vipers and look at that data I have opinions but it will be a while before I have opinions on the Nuevo.@Alex How’s the agg results going with the steel Nuevo vs aluminum Nuevo? Enough data yet to see anything?
A bit of “reading between the lines” on my part… but your post seems to imply that a tight fitting case that results in a thrust force being applied to the bolt that seats the lugs against the receiver is desirable. Makes sense in that this condition essentially forms the case, bolt, receiver, and sear into a single piece… minimizing relative movement during ignition.I dont worry so much about that. I know thats the common complaint. But at the end of the day if theres any clearance around the bolt then your not in control of its location. The pressure of the case seats the lugs. When that happens the back of the bolt snaps into place. I dont think it matters if it was originally at the top of the action because of the trigger or at the bottom of the action because of gravity. Really really square lug surfaces will prevent bolt body slap.