Bolt sleeving

[MFG_BOP]

liseo, have you watched this?

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Brownells Hi Force 44 is really good stuff.
I've used it before.
Unfortunately, the flux can't be shipped to my location, and without the right flux it's cut off at the knees.
A few years ago, a friend put me onto the new lead-free plumbing solders. I believe that they are usually copper, bismuth, tin, and silver. I've tried a few different ones, and right now I'm using Oatey Safe-Flo. Something like 20'000 psi tensile strength, so not as strong as Hi-Force, but EASY to work, and EASY to find.

I looked at Brownells but it is out of stock

 

[ricco1949]

JB Weld thinned with Sunnyside lacquer/epoxy thinner to the consistency of latex paint.

Brush on bolt and sleeve halves....never a failure on a half dozen bolts to date.

 

[STS]

I guess I’ve just been lucky. I have probably done 40 or 50 of them with MarineTex and never had one come off. That includes running several of them through hot blueing tanks.

 

[tobnpr]

liseo, have you watched this?

.001 (.0005 per side) clearance for a hunting rifle??
Never in my shop.

 

[JMA]

Back when I used to do split sleeves, I used soft solder. I don't think I've used a sleeve for twenty years, since I switched to bumps. WH

I am interested in how you do bumps

 

[Hal]

Will Henry

I hope you’ll share how you install bumps on your bolts.
How much clearance do you use on target actions, do you use more on hunting actions.

Thank you
Hal

 

[LVLAaron]

There's a picture of it somewhere around here. Instead of putting a sleeve all the way around the bolt - Cut a small dovetail in the bottom of the bolt and fit a matching piece of metal. Turn it to be the size you need, and you have a "bump"

 

[xr650rRider]

There's a picture of it somewhere around here. Instead of putting a sleeve all the way around the bolt - Cut a small dovetail in the bottom of the bolt and fit a matching piece of metal. Turn it to be the size you need, and you have a "bump"

Rem rear bolt sleeve

Just wondering what folks are doin here. I’m getting mixed results using epoxies and not diggin it really. I’m sure the pros are doin a cold solder. I have found that only fresh epoxies want to stick well. I’ve done my second bolt and bout to go to three but lookin for info. Don’t like all...

forum.accurateshooter.com

Another method
https://benchrest.com/forum/threads/whos-a-pro-at-borden-bumps.89171/#post-730773

 

[WSnyder]

There's a picture of it somewhere around here. Instead of putting a sleeve all the way around the bolt - Cut a small dovetail in the bottom of the bolt and fit a matching piece of metal. Turn it to be the size you need, and you have a "bump"

Gunsmith Bill Leeper came up with that.

Best way to attach bolt bushings to bolt

What do you guys use to attach your bushings to a bolt when you do one? I have been told tig welding is by far the best. Is there another way that works well if you don't have access to a tig welder? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. David Jaca Heppner, OR

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[LVLAaron]

I knew there was a picture somewhere on the site but couldn't find it for the life of me.

 

[Sniperhandle]

Jim Borden has what he calls "Borden Bumps"

 

[AlNyhus]

Another approach is a one piece (non split) full length sleeve like Stan Ware did. I've got several that he did. Good stuff.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[LVLAaron]

Well now you're just showin off!

 

[AlNyhus]

Well now you're just showin off!

Not me...those are Stan's skills. The raceway is also bored on these for a really nice fit.

 

[Will Henry]

Will Henry

I hope you’ll share how you install bumps on your bolts.
How much clearance do you use on target actions, do you use more on hunting actions.

Thank you
Hal

For bumps, I cut dovetails perpendicular to the bolt body, top and bottom, at the rear of the bolt. I'm not sure when I started doing this. I have never installed them at the front for two reasons: I don't like the idea of creating a stress riser behind the lugs, and if the lug seats and lugs are perpendicular to the axis, the bolt must align, providing the rear is centered. One thing I have done to try and improve things at the front of a Remington, is to turn the bolt nose to true it up, then put a Teflon o-ring in the barrel counterbore to support the bolt. This works fine, which is to say it does no harm, but I haven't seen that it improves anything either.
I generally turn the inserts to have zero clearance, then hone until the bolt just closes. After some use, I imagine you end up with a half thou tolerance anyway.
The first bolt I did, I just plunged in with a 3/8 end mill, then soldered a button in the blind hole. Then I noticed a piece of Brownell's dovetail insert stock on the bench and decided to go with the dove tails. It was just my way of trying to retrofit Borden's bumps.
Some time, in the 1970's, I think it was John Fry who tried 4 set crews in the receiver to do the same thing. Allen Bench may have used a similar technique (he also had the gravity-feed magazine!). WH (AKA Bill Leeper)

 

[ricco1949]

Not me...those are Stan's skills. The raceway is also bored on these for a really nice fit.

Al:

Bored or reamed??

I contemplated boring raceways on the 700s I've done but didn't think it would be successful with the intermittent cut and long reach....hence the PTG .705 reamer.

 

[ArtinNC]

Another approach is a one piece (non split) full length sleeve like Stan Ware did. I've got several that he did. Good stuff.

Good shootin' -Al

How do you do that ? remove the bolt handle ?

 

[AlNyhus]

Al:
Bored or reamed??

I contemplated boring raceways on the 700s I've done but didn't think it would be successful with the intermittent cut and long reach....hence the PTG .705 reamer.

Stan did them both ways. The one pictured is bored. Two others I have are reamed. He came to prefer the reaming method.

 

[AlNyhus]

How do you do that ? remove the bolt handle ?

Yes he did. That also gives the opportunity to maximize the primary extraction when it's reattached.