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Bolt lube question

I would like to know what you guys use to lube your bolt and firing pin spring.
Seems to me this would be the perfect place for moly grease of some type, and not oil..
Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks
 
I would like to know what you guys use to lube your bolt and firing pin spring.
Seems to me this would be the perfect place for moly grease of some type, and not oil..
Let me know your thoughts.

Many years ago when I was a teenager I lubricated my .22 rimfire with motor oil and went out to shoot rabbits in -40 weather. The gun would not fire a shot. After that I have only used low temperature synthetic silicone base gun oils on the bolt. Or more recently I use an automotive aerosol throttle body cleaner, and just leave the residual for lubrication. The exception is the cocking ramp on my Savage rimfire. It is susceptible to galling. I put a very small dab of silicone brake grease on the ramp only.

I find rimfires are more sensitive to lubrication than center fires. If I was to put grease in my rimfire bolt I'm sure I could not fire a shot, even in warm weather.
 
Do a search, there was a really big thread on this maybe a month ago.
 
I was just curious after reading Salazar's bolt article on the web page. That's what sparked the moly questions. And I'm talking just a light coat on the firing pin and spring. Bolt cam, and back of bolt lugs..that's it..not coating every thing..I would think the little bush plumbers use to apply flux would work as a perfect applicator . I don't see how a light coat could bog down lock time ...but speed it up..I don't like lube inside the bolt..but I never let any part of my guns run dry either.
As for the suggestion to use motor oil..I have used it on a high standard 22 pistol with fantastic results..
A gunsmith told me on steel use standard oil, on stainless steel use synthetic oil..he went in to reasons why and it all make perfect sense..
 
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For the exterior of the firing pin/spring and the interior of the bolt, I only want rust protection. After I clean both with OMS (odorless mineral spirits) and let them dry, I have a paint brush that I use to apply a light coat of CLP to the firing pin/spring. For the interior of the bolt I use the long wooden stick Q-Tip. Just a very light coat.

For the contact surface of the bolt locking lugs I use Tetra Gun Grease. Lots of good gun greases to use on this contact surface, but most importantly, do not forget to pull the trigger when you close the bolt. Otherwise the grease will just get wiped off before it can lube the receiver locking lug contact surface. Very important! I am ashamed to admit I didn't realize this for many years. Thanks to Greg with Gre-Tan Rifles for educating me via this YouTube Video:
 
For the exterior of the firing pin/spring and the interior of the bolt, I only want rust protection. After I clean both with OMS (odorless mineral spirits) and let them dry, I have a paint brush that I use to apply a light coat of CLP to the firing pin/spring. For the interior of the bolt I use the long wooden stick Q-Tip. Just a very light coat.

For the contact surface of the bolt locking lugs I use Tetra Gun Grease. Lots of good gun greases to use on this contact surface, but most importantly, do not forget to pull the trigger when you close the bolt. Otherwise the grease will just get wiped off before it can lube the receiver locking lug contact surface. Very important! I am ashamed to admit I didn't realize this for many years. Thanks to Greg with Gre-Tan Rifles for educating me via this YouTube Video:

Like you I never realized the importance of pulling the trigger..thank you for the video..good knowledge to pass on.
Thanks for the info guys..so no moly inside bolt.. gotcha
 
For the exterior of the firing pin/spring and the interior of the bolt, I only want rust protection. After I clean both with OMS (odorless mineral spirits) and let them dry, I have a paint brush that I use to apply a light coat of CLP to the firing pin/spring. For the interior of the bolt I use the long wooden stick Q-Tip. Just a very light coat.

For the contact surface of the bolt locking lugs I use Tetra Gun Grease. Lots of good gun greases to use on this contact surface, but most importantly, do not forget to pull the trigger when you close the bolt. Otherwise the grease will just get wiped off before it can lube the receiver locking lug contact surface. Very important! I am ashamed to admit I didn't realize this for many years. Thanks to Greg with Gre-Tan Rifles for educating me via this YouTube Video:
Video did not work.
 
For the exterior of the firing pin/spring and the interior of the bolt, I only want rust protection. After I clean both with OMS (odorless mineral spirits) and let them dry, I have a paint brush that I use to apply a light coat of CLP to the firing pin/spring. For the interior of the bolt I use the long wooden stick Q-Tip. Just a very light coat.

For the contact surface of the bolt locking lugs I use Tetra Gun Grease. Lots of good gun greases to use on this contact surface, but most importantly, do not forget to pull the trigger when you close the bolt. Otherwise the grease will just get wiped off before it can lube the receiver locking lug contact surface. Very important! I am ashamed to admit I didn't realize this for many years. Thanks to Greg with Gre-Tan Rifles for educating me via this YouTube Video:

Excellent video, and I agree with it 100%. No harm in putting grease on the cocking ramp, stationary threads, and the locking lugs, but keep it away from the firing pin.

I use Kleen-Flo Eze Slide Synthetic Brake Lubricant, but I'm sure there are many other good ones. Napa Sil-Glye is another. Actually the use on disk brake caliper slide pins is more critical than a gun bolt. On the brake slide pins you have to use a grease that does not swell up the rubber seals.

Good tip on holding the trigger while closing the bolt. That is my standard practice too...
 
I feel there is only a few companies that make lubes . If that's the case why you buy a lube . With a any name .
Bearing lube is use in extremely high pressure and high temperatures for years and must adhere to the surfaces . Larry
 

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