Bolt handle Reattach

[Jonnyofalltrades]

I'd silver solder it back on. But I'm sometimes over confident and don't know what I'm doing.

Never let common sense or better judgment hold you back!

 

[Old Navy]

Here's a way get a bolt open that most of the time doesn't require follow up work.
Equipment; two blocks of wood, big hammer, cleaning rod and help.
Procedure; place one block of wood on a solid surface, concrete slab works well. Place muzzle on that block of wood, place the other block on the back of the bolt shroud, now hit it hard a few times. Test to see if the bolt will rotate using only hand pressure. If not repeat the process with more force. If it moves at all, it's good start. DO NOT REACH FOR THE HAMMER. Rotate bolt using hand pressure until you reach the action camming surface. Have a friend come in from the muzzle with a cleaning rod, jag removed, and while you apply pressure on the bolt handle, he , with modest effort, tries to drive the case out. Most of time this works, saving the bolt handle and extractor. If that doesn't work then get something that can get down to the root of the bolt handle at the stock line. Then use the hammer to drive the bolt back. If none of this works then get a smith involved.

I watched two guys at an IHMSA match years ago beat the handle clear off an XP-100. Several guys tried to get them to stop but..... I watched them but had no idea what to do myself. How do you suppose they got it apart without to handle.

 

[DaveTooley]

I watched two guys at an IHMSA match years ago beat the handle clear off an XP-100. Several guys tried to get them to stop but..... I watched them but had no idea what to do myself. How do you suppose they got it apart without to handle.

With great difficulty. Resulting in many scarred parts.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

With great difficulty. Resulting in many scarred parts.

Fortunately, I have never had anyone bring me a rifle in that condition. I'm thinking that I would start by trying to pull the barrel off, with some persuasion first applied to the bolt sleeve.
Has anyone had to deal with this?(We know you're out there!) Any tips on how you got it apart?

 

[DaveTooley]

Yes I have. Maybe twice.

 

[jackieschmidt]

About 20 years ago, we had a friend shooting a REM 700 in 6mm Ackley. He was shooting 68 grain match bullets at about 3800 fps. Since it was a 1-8 twist barrel, he decided to switch to some 100+ grn bullets.

He forgot to drop the powder charge. The bolt was completely locked.

We took it to my shop and with my big Brownell vice and wrench, got the barrel off.
The “three rings of steel” worked. The case head was literally extruded into the bolt nose counterbore, which was extruded out to the ID of the barrel counterbore.

I could not imagine any other way to get it open.

 

[Will Henry]

I've known Rod since the mid-eighties. He's a clever guy and his knowledge comes from practical experience. I've re-attached a bunch of handles with hi-temp silver solder, and it works out fine. I've also used the screw, kind of like Jackie did, to locate the handle for the silver solder. Worked well too. TIG welding by a capable welder might be the best way, but a good silver solder joint will not fail. WH

 

[WSnyder]

I've re-attached a bunch of handles with hi-temp silver solder, and it works out fine. I've also used the screw, kind of like Jackie did, to locate the handle for the silver solder. Worked well too. TIG welding by a capable welder might be the best way, but a good silver solder joint will not fail. WH

The best flowing easiest to get a good joint is silver solder with cadmium. That said a respirator and good ventilation (fan) should probably be used. I spoke to Darrel Holland years ago and I asked what the preferred silver solder was in his shop and it was a cad containing silver solder. I have a coil of it and save it for jobs that need to get done in one shot and have the best chance of not failing. The cad makes a noticeable difference. If I were to silver solder a bolt handle that's what I'd use.

 

[Carl S]

Silver solder is good if done properly.ive re soldered a few 700's which have failed and it was because of bad preparation.porosity and very little solder in the joint.all parts need to be spotless and grease free.score the areas where the solder is going to run.a good volume of solder under that joint is want you want.apply flux under the joint and make sure both parts are up to temperature.we want that solder flow right under that joint.not just around the edges.thats where it goes wrong.not enough heat right through the joint.if done properly it will stand quite abit of hammering.i tig weld mostly these days..preparation is key to all good welding-jointing applications.