Bix trigger fix

[ELR LVR]

Polished and dry contact is consistent. Oil will be inconsistent.

This man knows
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I will add, this goes for ALL triggers.... STOP oiling your triggers.
I dont know how many triggers I've done that are all tacky and gummed up from oxidized Oil
The sear surfaces are so freakin hard, they need NO lubrication
Lets put it another way
They are SELF Lubricating because they are so hard
Oil picks up dirt, dust, air dust, environmental dust, and produces inconsistency
EVEN in a factory trigger.
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If you have sear surfaces so soft they gall each other after 20 firings.... like cheap China AR triggers
then yeah
put some stringy tacky wheel bearing grease all up in there.
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It may sound counterintuitive...thinking you are lubricating something rather than letting it wear down but
-------It is not a camshaft generating HEAT by rotating at 7000 rpms
.........a person is doing more harm than good by oiling a trigger.
I oil NO trigger ever, except maybe the pin the shoe pivots on, and no trigger has ever wore out on me.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I dont think anyone intentionaly oils a trigger. Its usually migrating oil or solvent. I get what your saying about a cam, but you would need to turn 14k rpms at the crank for a cam to turn 7k. But the way oil works in an engine is why I dont bore the id of shrouds. Oil film strength.

 

[ELR LVR]

I dont think anyone intentionaly oils a trigger. Its usually migrating oil or solvent. I get what your saying about a cam, but you would need to turn 14k rpms at the crank for a cam to turn 7k. But the way oil works in an engine is why I dont bore the id of shrouds. Oil film strength.

Trust me my friend after receiving so many Rem triggers that have gummed up and even obviously having newly oiled surfaces and after having had to correct the owner.
(I just did a trigger and it was perfect and I followed up and he said it sometimes goes off if you smack the butt hard, when I was smacking it with a 2 pound deadblow when I had it and it would not go off.
so I said "sent it back for free"............. when i got it back it was alll oily inside!!! ALL OVER)
I Wonder why it goes off inconsistently now ? This was 1 month ago
I don't know how many people I have to educate on this. Today, in todays times.
"Ummm pssst , Hey Dude....dont oil your trigger ok"
And get the response of
"Oh, well what about when...." (which is an admission of guilt right there) and I have to interrupt to make it more clear to them
"no no, don't......... oil your triggers"
And even So called "self Proclaimed gunsmiths" that argue with me about oiling or greasing their triggers
---People intentionally do, I assure you, today somebody, somewhere on this forum, is oiling the inside of their trigger. Because they think it will prevent it from rusting,(ok sure)... help make it better, help make them feel better, which I dont know if you know this but
little secret, (too many people lately have been making decisions based on how they feel about a thing rather than facts, research and R&D empirical evident results)
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It's not a huge issue for me it's like, hey whatever, it's their trigger man, they can do what they like to it then.

 

[ELR LVR]

I get what your saying about a cam, but you would need to turn 14k rpms at the crank for a cam to turn 7k.

Good, at least I know youre paying attention
Ya ever ridden a crotch rocket?
Anyway what Im saying is a trigger sear surface produces no heat, because there is not enough contact surface area nor enough friction is all. so no need to muck things up with different lubes.
There are engines with Ceramic Bronze bearings that use no oil in the upper end for this reason
Such as Coates Rotary valve heads (another 14K example)
But not to side tract the issue....just giving an example or two for oil and no oil is all
even in a 14k engine

 

[Jaswal]

I know it's an old thread but this helped me today with my Bix and Andy Competition Trigger for my F-TR build that started to hang during a match (would go off after either a delay of .2 - .3 seconds or went off when I touched the bolt or didn't go off at all. I cleaned and polished these parts and now it has not done that yet. wanted to thank you for sharing this in my first post here on this forum.

 

[ELR LVR]

I know it's an old thread but this helped me today with my Bix and Andy Competition Trigger for my F-TR build that started to hang during a match (would go off after either a delay of .2 - .3 seconds or went off when I touched the bolt or didn't go off at all. I cleaned and polished these parts and now it has not done that yet. wanted to thank you for sharing this in my first post here on this forum.

Well much like going back to our old log notes
I dont think it matters much if the thread is old
The info will remain the same for years into the future
Glad it helped

 

[Contender]

These triggers are extremely simple in design. They are also extremely reliable so long as things are how they should be. A little over a year ago I had enough issues with them that I looked into it and came up with the solution. I have been doing this on every rifle I have built for a little over a year now and have not had one come back with a failure since. I have also been doing it for guys that have had trouble and all the reports have been good so I know this works. Early on I also replaced the ball bearings with carbide but have concluded that did nothing, and stopped that practice with no ill effects. If you look at the friction surfaces in the trigger you will find that there is really only one. That interface has got to be polished to a mirror finish or you may have problems. If you pull the trigger and nothing happens until you touch your bolt handle or get delayed fires this is why. The first two pictures are pointing to that friction point between the 2 parts both surfaces need to be polished the next pictures are before & after. You wont have to clean your trigger again after you fix the actual problem. This is not meant to be a negative thing, I use mostly Bix n Andy triggers in my builds, probably 90% or more. They are my favorite trigger.



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Thank you Alex. Sure made difference in its operation. It is so crisp. Just a clean and polish with mother mag wheel polish and done. Using a circle pad with a dremel tool.
Thank you again for sharing.
Steve