• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

binding action

I have an action that is really stiff when cocking. Can this be caused by a twisted action and if so how could you remedy this, would it help to pillar bed the action? I have taken apart the bolt and the cocking piece and checked for rough spots that might be causing the binding and can't find anything that would be causing this.

thanks for the help this one has me stumped.
 
If you remove the striker assembly, how does the bolt cycle? Is it the same (with the striker assembly in place) with the barreled action out of the stock? Could you have a rough cocking cam or cocking piece, that is not properly lubricated? Generally, pillar bedding is located off of the action as it exists, so it would not be of much use to straighten out a twisted action.
 
it is only stiff when cocking, once cocked it is as smooth as a mauser should be. I have looked at every point of contact that I can think of bolt body to cocking piece firing, pin rotate points, and firing pin to cocking piece. The only place I have not been able to take a look at is inside the bolt body where the firing pin contacts and inside the bolt sleeve. I am really stumped and can't think of what I might be over looking.
 
Back off your front action bolt and see if that helps. If it does then it's about a thread too long and rubbing the bolt lug. Grind it off and you're good to go.
 
Clowdis,
While that is an excellent suggestion for many actions, the front screw on a Mauser screws into the bottom of the recoil lug, and cannot reach the bolt.

IMO if it is smooth all the time except when cocking, I would disassemble the bolt, and striker assembly,and polish the cocking cam, cocking piece, and inspect any surfaces that impart sliding friction to the cocking operation. Of course I would grease things when I reassembled. I once spoke with a fellow that thought that there would be no difference if he simply oiled the parts that require grease....there is a big difference. Oil is no substitute.
Boyd
 
Thanks Boyd,

I'll take the fine grained sand paper to the cam and the cocking piece and see if I can't clean it up a bit more. What kind of grease would you recommend, that could be my other problem I was only using oil.

Hack
 
I think that fine grained sandpaper would be too coarse. Before you try to polish anything, take it apart and apply a thin coat of grease (Pro-Shot Gold is a good one.) You should put the thinnest of layers on the back of your locking lugs, a more generous amount on your cocking cam, a dab on your primary extraction cam. You can also take the striker assembly out and grease the shroud threads. Do not take sandpaper to anything. If the above does not fix your problem, get back to me on polishing. Does anyone that you know have a Dremel tool?
 
I would have a choice of 20 plus bolts and as many firing pin springs, I do not have rifles that are timid about hitting primers, not a price to pay but the long tough, hard to compress spring will result in difficulty in cocking (on open), the other hard hitters are the M1917s that are cock on close, a friend came over from the firing range with a box of Remington R-P 30/06 ammo, of the 20 5 did not fire even though the failed to fire were given 5 chances with 3 different rifles, I suggested they call Remington or the manufacture of the new rifle, instead he came over and we checked the 15 cases that did fore for length, diameter and the effect the chamber had on the case when fired, the fired cases chambered in my chamber gage with little effort, we tore down the 5 cases that did not fire all the way to removing the primers, we were impressed with the case dimensions, powder weight, bullets etc., etc.. I then installed the 5 time struck primers back into the same cases they were removed from then chambered them in one of my Remington M1917s, all 5 primers fired, again the strike of the firing pin did not go click, it went CLICK!!!!!!, those at the range were bashing Remington ammo.

I am a fan of the heavy hitting firing pins, even then the case, powder and bullet can not accelerate to a speed that would allow the total weight of the round to get to the shoulder of the chamber before the firing pin crushes the primer, and even though I did not have powder and bullet weight added to the case, the primer did not back out.

The shooter had 2 boxes of R-P ammo, he fired one box. The good part, he purchased the new rifle from the same place that sold him the ammo.

As a suggestion, remove a turn from the firing pin spring, as I said I could have choices, other springs, other bolts and I can determine the effect the test/replacement bolt will/would have on head space.

F. Guffey
 
A Commercial Mauser? Have you looked at the small cams on the firing pin that are about an inch or so from the tip. If they get boogered, from dry firing, it can make the bolt handle on a Mauser hard to lift. Some have the cams on the pin, some do not.
 

Attachments

  • Mauser F.P 001.JPG
    Mauser F.P 001.JPG
    46.6 KB · Views: 100
Shortgrass, the firing pin does not rotate, when cocked, the firing pin moves straight back, the only part of the bolt assembly that rotates is the bolt body, the cam effect is accomplished between the cocking piece (does not rotate) and bolt body (rotates), the cam is located at the rear of the bolt and is in the form of a 'V' notch (V with one straight side.

F. Guffey
 
Those boogered up cams on the firing pin will interfere. Think whatever you want, that's fine. I believe I know what parts of the Mauser bolt assembly move (the bolt body, as you stated) as I am professionally trained and have over 20 years of bench experience. I've seen those cams on the firing pin drag and cause a 'hard' bolt handle lift many times. The actual 'cocking' takes place as you stated, but, 'drag' from another source, like the cams on the FP, can cause what can be preceived as 'hard to cock'. ( I don't believe I said the firing pin rotates If it did, the cocking piece would no longer be attached to the firing pin, would it?)
 
"A Commercial Mauser? Have you looked at the small cams on the firing pin that are about an inch or so from the tip"



Forgive, I could have read that a 'little' too fast, I thought you referred to the flats on the firing pin as cams, the flats on the firing pin prevent the firing pin from rotating while it is being cocked and prevent the firing pin from falling before the bolt is closed, let me say I could have started doing this stuff 2 days ago and you know everything there is about 'The Mauser' to ever one else I would sugest they remove the barreled action from the stock, remove the trigger then raise the bolt handle, move the bolt to the rear then close the bolt, and watch the firing pin move forward as the bolt is closed, make sure a round is not in the chamber.

F. Guffey
 
They are cams. They force the bolt into complete 'battery' if it is not (because the bolt is not fully closed) when the firing pin travels forward in the process of firing. Are you sure you know what a cam looks like?
 
"( I don't believe I said the firing pin rotates If it did, the bolt shroud would no longer be attached to the firing pin, would it?)"

The cocking piece is between the bolt shroud and firing pin, so yes, the shroud could be there but missing the cocking piece, the cocking piece connects the firing pin to the shroud, and holds it with the pressure of the firing pin spring.

forgive again, if the firing pin is not attached in the rear to the cocking piece and the bolt is closed 'THE BOLT IS LOCKED AND WILL NOT OPEN" the bolt will not open unless the firing pin is pulled back.

F. Guffey
 
shortgrass said:
They are cams. They force the bolt into complete 'battery' if it is not (because the bolt is not fully closed) when the firing pin travels forward in the process of firing. Are you sure you know what a cam looks like?
Take a look a Kuhnhausens' book on Mauser Bolt Actions. I believe he explains it about the same way I did. He calls them cams, too, if I rememeber correctly. And , my apologies, in my haste, I did say bolt shroud when I ment cocking piece. I have corrected that). 'Nuff said from my end,,,, pissing match over!
 
BoydAllen said:
Clowdis,
While that is an excellent suggestion for many actions, the front screw on a Mauser screws into the bottom of the recoil lug, and cannot reach the bolt.

Boyd

Yep, had a brain fart :)
 
"Take a look a Kuhnhausens' book on Mauser Bolt Actions"

Mr, Kuhnhausen, it has been brought to my attention by description you have the firing pin battering in the front of the bolt, I need to send you one of my bolts, my bolt has the firing pin hung up on the trigger, and if their is a battery it has to be when the cocking piece slams into the bolt should, because the firing pin spring pushes equally in both directions, one end against the firing pin, the other against the shroud, meaning battery? would it be the cocking piece slamming into the bolt shroud?

If I wanted to jump into the fast lane and show off I would say Battery, instead I choose to say close. Then there is the perception the firing pin hits the front of the bolt, as just described, the firing pin has a limiter, the limiter is the contact point between the cocking piece and the bolt shroud (On my Mauser bolts), If the firing pin is battering? in the front of the bolt I would suggest you recommend owners/readers of your book be informed if their is upsetting of metal to the front of the firing pin there is something going/gone wrong in the rear, again my Mauser firing pins move straight back when cammed (bolt raised) and straight forward when the trigger is pulled.

Without the bolt, when the firing pin assemble is configured to be installed with the safety engaged, is there a loud 'CLICK' when the safety is rotated to fire?, my firing pin assemblies make the loud click when the safety is released without the bolt, so, Mr, Kuhnhausen are you saying the BIG CLICK sound is coming from the firing pin hammering the front of the bolt, also??? On my firing pins the flats prevent the firing pin from rotating while the assemble is cammed back, and prevent the firing pin from falling until the bolt is closed.

F. Guffey
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
164,779
Messages
2,184,166
Members
78,507
Latest member
Rabbit hole
Back
Top