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Big mystery in resizing.....

schumi

One shot and other dry "FILM" lubes and others like it have less shear strength, meaning they do not have a total film barrier between the die and case.

You One Shot fans should drain the oil out of your cars engine and replace it with One Shot and see how long it take for the engine to blow.

You want your cases slicker than wet snot on a door knob, there is another joke about Tarzan screaming before he hit the jungle floor "Who greased the vine".

Bottom line "Dry film lube" can be rubbed off by friction and oil or grease will float over the problem.

Sgt. Stryker: You idiot. When are you gonna wake up? You wanna see that dame again, if it moves grease it, if it rotates oil it......

JohnWayneSandsofIwoJima_zpsa64d5435.jpg
 
Webster said:
I have worked many years in the area of metallurgical failure analysis. From everything I know about cartridge brass it's impossible for it to harden with time. It's a single phase alloy.
Bingo ;) Some will say anything simply to make themselves appear smarter than others.
 
Webster said:
I have worked many years in the area of metallurgical failure analysis. From everything I know about cartridge brass it's impossible for it to harden with time. It's a single phase alloy.

Yes, that is true .....IF....1/ one assumes the brass was alloyed properly (90% of brass comes from recycled brass) and annealed properly at the factory (& we all know they never deviate from spec ::)) 2/ the brass is isolated from trace ammonia which mixed with moisture attacks brass. Some sources of ammonia : air, rain water, fertilizers, decayed animal & vegetable matter ( i.e. litter box, rodent wastes), household cleaners, most bore cleaners- most then and some still now.
Ask a seasoned successful competitor if he would use decades old brass without annealing necks first.
 
Come on LH ::) That is nothing more than guess work. I happen to know of more than one seasoned competitor using LAPUA 220 russian brass that was purchased in bulk many moons ago. I have a few boxes of the old stuff myself. I use them in my Waldog.
 
bigedp51 said:
schumi

One shot and other dry "FILM" lubes and others like it have less shear strength, meaning they do not have a total film barrier between the die and case.

You One Shot fans should drain the oil out of your cars engine and replace it with One Shot and see how long it take for the engine to blow.

You want your cases slicker than wet snot on a door knob, there is another joke about Tarzan screaming before he hit the jungle floor "Who greased the vine".

Bottom line "Dry film lube" can be rubbed off by friction and oil or grease will float over the problem.

Sgt. Stryker: You idiot. When are you gonna wake up? You wanna see that dame again, if it moves grease it, if it rotates oil it......

JohnWayneSandsofIwoJima_zpsa64d5435.jpg

I know that from now on for any heavy resizing it's Imperial wax or at the most extreme, motor oil. I have found that One Shot does not "keep" well over a period of time. It clogs at the top of the can and the spray nozzle. Even replacing the nozzle with a new one sometimes won't work... Thanks for the advice.
 
JRS.......Note- I said "successful" competitor...and Lapua .220 brass has only been out 20 some years and yes, with proper storage should be as good as day 1.
The OP has fired brass that's been setting around for some years, and we have no idea what environment the brass was subjected to- was it stored near his bore cleaning area? From my experience it's fired brass that seems to be most affected with age.
 
Mystery!! I MUST be doing something drastically wrong! I've been reloading ammo since 1948 and I have never had the problems some folks come up with here on this forum!!

I gotta be doing something wrong!!
 
RMulhern said:
Mystery!! I MUST be doing something drastically wrong! I've been reloading ammo since 1948 and I have never had the problems some folks come up with here on this forum!!

I gotta be doing something wrong!!
+1 ;D
 
RMulhern said:
Mystery!! I MUST be doing something drastically wrong! I've been reloading ammo since 1948 and I have never had the problems some folks come up with here on this forum!!

I gotta be doing something wrong!!
To me, it's a forum for information as well as helping with techniques to improve performance. This was my first real problem using newer products and techniques. If this is the only one, good. At least there are good people here willing to try and help figure things out thru their experience and knowledge. Others are blessed with perfection, I unfornately am not....
 
Cleaning Media Stainless Steel Pins

Some online have blamed the Cleaning Media Stainless Steel Pins for enlarging the primer pocket, causing gas leakage between the primer & brass. I have no idea if its true or possible?? I guess a good thing may be over done at times.
 
Re: Cleaning Media Stainless Steel Pins

243winxb said:
Some online have blamed the Cleaning Media Stainless Steel Pins for enlarging the primer pocket, causing gas leakage between the primer & brass. I have no idea if its true or possible?? I guess a good thing may be over done at times.

Very true. This is my first experience with stainless media. So far I really like the results. Time will tell if that perception holds true. With everything new there are pros and cons and trials and errors. Basically cause and effect. I changed one procedure and it effected another. Now I know how to proceed.
 
Seems every new method of whatever has a learning curve and limitations, I'm still dealing with ultrasonic leaving residue on the brass, so I wind up tumbling anyway. This time I'm going to let ya'll sort it out before I buy everything. Paul
 
Forget the spray and use Hornady Unique case lube. It is the best I have found. I quit the spray because it went bad .
 
I have been stainless cleaning for several years and over 10k cases and have found that if you don't get the chemical proportions right, you'll damage the brass. I have to use two table spoons of Palmolive and .6cc of Lemishine in my city supplied water. I had to play with these proportions to get it right. Too much acid and the cases get acid etched and dezincificated. They cone out a dull brown color and are very hard to size. Too much soap and the cases turn purple. I guess it also depends on how long you tumble them. I tumble overnight, but I read some people tumble only for a couple of hours. In any case, I have some brass with over 100 hours in the tumbler with no ill effects.

Get a Lee .6cc dipper. Get a table spoon. Play with the proportions and match them to your water. Different areas have different water. Also, when you use the spoon, keep in mind the dish soap sticks to the spoon so you need to wash the soap into the drum to have an accurate measurement.

I use Imperial without any issues. The chattering you felt is due to lube failure. HOS is infamous for that.
 
Agreed, lube break down or inconsistant coverage caused the chatter. I was using RCBS case lube and a pad. I now use alcohol with the RCBS case lube to help distribute it in the pad. I also put alcohol on the pad before I use it, roll all the cases and let the alcohol evaporate, then size. This method seems to give a more consistant coverage/thin coating(less oil dents). The differance is enough that you can feel it with the press handle. I'm still using silica for case neck lube, anything newer/better?Paul
 
I've been using Hornady One-Shot since the mid-'90s with very good results. The only time I've seen problems with it were when using a brand new set of dies, and even then, it was usually due to the fact that I hadn't bothered to take the time to do a good job of cleaning the preservative oil out of the inside of the FL sizer before using it. In those cases, or when using a home made FL sizer, I've learned to use Imperial Sizing Die wax on the first few cases through the die. After that, One Shot works fine, as it always has for me.


I usually buy a case of One Shot, which is 12 aerosol cans. Since I don't shoot nearly as much XC HP as I used to, that means a case lasts for years, yet I've not had any problems with One Shot that's been sitting in my loading room for 6+yrs.

Just recently built myself a nice tactical rifle chambered for .30-'06 - had never done an '06 for myself, and wanted to see just how good one with a good chamber in a custom bbl on a trued receiver in a bedded McM stock would shoot. Had all the parts on hand, so the build went as expected. It was only when I took stock of my supply of '06 brass that I realized there might be a problem - with all the craziness going on right now, it's pretty tough to find WW '06 brass. I wound up digging out a 3lb coffee can full of old '06 brass that a friend had given me at an IPSC match back in the '80s. This was old brass when he gave it to me, with some REM UMC, Savage, and one Peters case with a "30G1906" headstamp. I'd FL sized & trimmed it long ago, but decided to run it through a Giraud annealing machine before using it. One Shot still works fine on this stuff after it's been fired in the new '06.
 
Buck 89 said:
Forget the spray and use Hornady Unique case lube. It is the best I have found. I quit the spray because it went bad .

Another thing I suspected. Does the spray go bad? Some say no. But I still have my doubts.
 

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