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Best Way to remove Moly

I have purchased a gun that had had nothing by moly bullets shot through it. I plan I using non-moly bullets in it. What is the best way to get the moly out of the bore? Best solvent? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
It,s difficult to believe but
Dawn dishwash soap does a terrific job. Start with a clean barrel and using a snug patch soaked in Dawn, swab your barrel as you would with JB paste. I would put the muzzle of my barrel up against a leg on my wood shelf so the patch could not exit the barrel when swabbing. Do not leave the Dawn in the barrel to soak! Make sure your barrel is absolutely clean and all traces of the dishwash soap are removed before firing.
 
cardman5448 said:
Do not leave the Dawn in the barrel to soak! Make sure your barrel is absolutely clean and all traces of the dishwash soap are removed before firing.

Ok, dumb question: How do you remove "all traces" of the soap? I assume patch it out using something on the patches, but regular bore cleaner, degreaser, plain water or what?

(I ask because I've never used soap in a barrel, and some chemicals might react unexpectedly with it.)

Brian
 
I just use hoppes with a good nylon brush and scrub it up some and patch out.If you use a soap it should have some water mixed so there is something to carry away the grunge form the thick soap. Jb bore paste in my opinion is the end all for moly also.
 
The dish soap with Water. Just use very got water. Because it's hot it will evaporate fast and eliminate problems with putting down a layer of oils or whatever solvents you use after.
 
Grimstod said:
The dish soap with Water. Just use very got water. Because it's hot it will evaporate fast and eliminate problems with putting down a layer of oils or whatever solvents you use after.

Or follow the soap and water with IPA alcohol then follow with Kroil and dry patches.

The Dawn works like a charm, just make sure you clean your chamber and lug lock area with the Kroil and swabs too. WD
 
WyleWD said:
Grimstod said:
The dish soap with Water. Just use very got water. Because it's hot it will evaporate fast and eliminate problems with putting down a layer of oils or whatever solvents you use after.

Or follow the soap and water with IPA alcohol then follow with Kroil and dry patches.

The Dawn works like a charm, just make sure you clean your chamber and lug lock area with the Kroil and swabs too. WD

1+
 
brians356 said:
If Dawn removes moly from the bore, wouldn't it also remove moly from bullets?

Brian

Done that too... works ok. Just need to make sure they are rinsed well with water, then rinsed with IPA. ;) WD
 
IPA = isopropyl alcohol.

Shooting related history from the Wiki:

In 1920, Standard Oil first produced isopropyl alcohol by hydrating propene. Its major use at the time was not rubbing alcohol but for oxidation to acetone, whose first major use was in World War One for the preparation of the explosive Cordite.
 
Back when I shot moly coated bullets, my first step in cleaning the bore was to run a patch soaked with Simple Green.
 
The easiest way I found to remove it, is get a product called RB17, or one that is similar called blue wonder. Both are a gel, natural ammonia based solvents. Run two wet patch's of through then stroke the bore with a wet bronze brush for 20 strokes, let it sit 20 minutes, come back run a wet bronze brush 20 more strokes, and patch out. Your done.
 
Nomad47 said:
Back when I shot moly coated bullets, my first step in cleaning the bore was to run a patch soaked with Simple Green.

May we assume that wasn't to remove all the moly, but rather part of your periodic cleaning regimen with moly? Why Simple Green?

Brian
 
brians356 said:
Nomad47 said:
Back when I shot moly coated bullets, my first step in cleaning the bore was to run a patch soaked with Simple Green.

May we assume that wasn't to remove all the moly, but rather part of your periodic cleaning regimen with moly? That is correct. Why Simple Green? I tried Simple Green on a whim. When the patch came out really black, I figured it must work.

Brian
 
Trapper243 said:
Or "India Pale Ale"! ;D

Ugh! Waaay too hoppy, if made in the USA, anyway. Hops obsession has ruined the American craft beer industry:


http://scholarsandrogues.com/2012/01/09/american-microbrewers-can-they-be-saved-from-hopsessivecompulsive-disorder/

Brian
 
tonedaddy said:
Anyone used Wipe Out for this?

Not Wipe-Out, but Patch-Out, yes. I just removed moly and a lot of old copper fouling from a sweet old 1970s R-700 Varmint (in 6mm Rem!) using mostly Patch-Out, with a few applications of both "Corbin's Bore Cleaner" and "J-B Non-embedding" compound. (The latter two were to conquer stubborn copper, the moly went away fairly quickly in the whole process.)

I love Patch-Out. It is not thin and runny, easy to apply and soak it into the patch without having it drip. I've found leaving it in the bore overnight, then agitating it with a nylon brush before patching it out, seems to speed things up.

Incidentally, I have discovered and now prefer Parker-Hale type jags. With these you find the best size patch for a loose, snug, or even tight fit in the bore, and wrap it around the jag forming a cylinder (sharp "teeth" grab it and help hold it in place.) I feel this applies cleaner more evenly to the bore. But you can also use it to simply push patches through like a pointed jag, as when trying to remove crud after soaking. I also prefer the Parker-Hale wrapped in a patch for "short-stroking" abrasive compounds like J-B, rather than wrapping a patch around an old bore brush, as they recommend.

Anyone else out there using the Parker-Hale jags?

Brian
 

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