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Best way to dry your brass after they come out of sonic cleaner??

Hello,
Like most people I started out with a vibrating tumbler but then I went to the ultra sonic and found that it got my primer pockets much cleaner. I used to use the sun to dry my brass but on winter days it doesn't cut it. For the last 2 years I have been seeing my oven at 220 degrees, when it reaches temp I put my brass in and then shut it off. I leave it over night usually and I have never had an issue. My father said it would ruin my brass but he is old-school. I am currently on my 5th reload (300 wm) and the Norma brass is good.

Also, my resizing lube makes my brass tacky and dirty so the last few times I neck sized while they were still wet from the being washed after the sonic cleaner and had absolutely no problems. Meaning- I used the water as my lube instead on my Sinclair lanolin. Anyone else try this???

Thank you for any advice.
 
Hello,
Like most people I started out with a vibrating tumbler but then I went to the ultra sonic and found that it got my primer pockets much cleaner. I used to use the sun to dry my brass but on winter days it doesn't cut it. For the last 2 years I have been seeing my oven at 220 degrees, when it reaches temp I put my brass in and then shut it off. I leave it over night usually and I have never had an issue. My father said it would ruin my brass but he is old-school. I am currently on my 5th reload (300 wm) and the Norma brass is good.

Also, my resizing lube makes my brass tacky and dirty so the last few times I neck sized while they were still wet from the being washed after the sonic cleaner and had absolutely no problems. Meaning- I used the water as my lube instead on my Sinclair lanolin. Anyone else try this???

Thank you for any advice.
I put them in the clothes dryer on the rack that goes in the dryer, on medium heat for about 30 minutes.
 
You could use external heat, but I avoid it. The next fastet way would be to rinse your brass in the hottest water you can get, agitate it in the container to knock most water out of the cases, then drain the water off. Keep repeating till you get little or no water coming off. Put the brass in a big towel, gather the ends together to make a sort of bag out of it. Agitate the brass to knock water out of the cases. Spread the brass out to dry, maybe on a new dry towel, and maybe in the sun, if there is any. This way knocks loose most of the internal water, particularly what is trapped in the primer pockets and flash holes. It seems that if you don't do that, the majority of the case is bone dry, but you wait forever for the condsiderable amounts of water in the flash holes and primer pockets to dry.

Danny
 
I rinse in 90% isopropyl which absorbs the water
Then I toss on to a clean towel and roll the brass back and forth to dry the outside -raise and lower opposite ends of the towel for 15 seconds
Then I place mouth down in a loading block with the cases tilted to let air in the mouth.
Place in from of a box fan for 15 mins. If you want you can dry the primer pocket with compressed air or a cotton swab.

The alcohol also removes case lube and eliminates need for ultrasonic.
 
I use an old "hood style" hair dryer and put the brass in a mesh bag suspended from the "hood" use high heat and high air settings, 10-15 min. done
 
Hello,
Like most people I started out with a vibrating tumbler but then I went to the ultra sonic and found that it got my primer pockets much cleaner. I used to use the sun to dry my brass but on winter days it doesn't cut it. For the last 2 years I have been seeing my oven at 220 degrees, when it reaches temp I put my brass in and then shut it off. I leave it over night usually and I have never had an issue. My father said it would ruin my brass but he is old-school. I am currently on my 5th reload (300 wm) and the Norma brass is good.

Also, my resizing lube makes my brass tacky and dirty so the last few times I neck sized while they were still wet from the being washed after the sonic cleaner and had absolutely no problems. Meaning- I used the water as my lube instead on my Sinclair lanolin. Anyone else try this???

Thank you for any advice.

I use the oven method. I don't want to use flammable rinses in the house and figure out how to dispose of the stuff. After a couple hours in the kitchen oven at 200F I found some water in a few cases. Now I shake each case to get as much water out as possible. I normally do about 50 cases in a batch. Probably shot about 500 shots a year.

My method:
1. Tumble with SS, Dawn, Lemishine.
2. Rinse in tap water then distilled water.
3. Shake the water out of each case, then roll on a paper towel.
4. Spread out in a Pyrex dish. 200F in the oven for several hours. Turn oven off and leave over night during the cool down.
The cases look like jewelry.

I don't use any commercial case lube. They are too expensive for a small tube. I use just about any light oil or petroleum based hydraulic fluid that doesn't have sulfur compounds in it. Sulfur discolors. They work fine for normal sizing. I have never reformed cases to another caliber which would be more severe. I had some Lee water base case lube. If you squeeze some out on a piece of paper it harden's like a piece of plastic. We don't need water or a hardening compound in our dies.
 
In the airing cupboard on a reloading block with the centres drilled out.

Brass%20drying.JPG


Regards JCS
 
Minerals in your water will do that and "water spot" your brass all over too.
Isopropyl alcohol will not leave much in the way of spots or and no film in the primer pockets. if you roll the cases on a towel the IPA will flash off (evaporate) almost instantly leaving your brass squeaky clean.

If i dont dry mine with some kind of force it leaves residue in the primer pockets
 
Pizza pan at 200deg after sloshing around in a towel

Dusty nailed it in my opinion. Everything else listed here is five times more trouble than the oven on 200. Think about it; water boils or vaporizes at about 200, and that's too low to harm the brass. Only thing I do is preheat the oven so that the element doesn't go red when the brass are in there. jd
 
Dusty nailed it in my opinion. Everything else listed here is five times more trouble than the oven on 200. Think about it; water boils or vaporizes at about 200, and that's too low to harm the brass. Only thing I do is preheat the oven so that the element doesn't go red when the brass are in there. jd

I turn it on as im digging the brass out, shaking pins out then toss in the towel (rocking motion) then the oven is perfect
 
Is there a speed issue? I think you referred to being 'too cold' to put them out in the sun. So, clean then roll them in a towel and then place them upside down like Jcampbellsmith showed with his red shell holder. Leave them over night and they should be dry.
 

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