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Best Tool to hold onto Brass while Neck Turning

What is the Best Tool to hold onto Brass while Neck Turning? I have the Sinclair cheap case holder, but I am looking for a sturdy one.

Any help would be appreciated?
 
These are the only way to go when neck turning. I couldnt imagine turning necks by hand.


http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=45124/Product/Sinclair-Driver-Caseholder-Set
 
+1 on the caseholder!

I put mine in a cordless drill and it works great. I also drop my neck turner in ice water while I am switching cases. It is kind of cold and messy but it keeps the mandrel from heating up and I do not need any lube.
just my 2 cents let me know if there is an easier/cleaner way.
 
+2 on case holder. I bought one of these http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=33646/avs|Manufacturer_1=SINCLAIR%20INTERNATIONAL/Product/Sinclair-Power-Center

Hornady, and several others make similar powered solutions.

Chip
 
I use this chuck in my cordless drill.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/352653/lee-zip-trim-case-trimmer-universal-3-jaw-chuck-case-holder?cm_vc=S014ID515804
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/174316/lee-case-spinner-spindle-with-drill-shank-for-use-with-3-jaw-chuck?cm_vc=S014ID352653

Regards JCS
 
I use PBike's turning motor. It has a Forster-type chuck. There are several advantages:

1. You never run out of battery at an inconvenient moment.
2. It turns at exactly the right speed: SLOW.
3. You have both hands free to deal with the turning tool, etc.

Regards,

Greg J.
 
brian427cobra said:
My Dewalt has a 1/2 inch chuck, I simply use it

+1 but mine's a Milwaukee. I have a big-enuf variable AC power supply I plug it into so I can dial up the speed I like.

Won't work for the 6.5WSSM cases that came with my latest acquisition though, for those I bought into the Sinclair case colder & drill adapter items.
 
willyp19 said:
What is the Best Tool to hold onto Brass while Neck Turning? I have the Sinclair cheap case holder, but I am looking for a sturdy one.

I started years ago with a Sinclair but found that the portion that applies friction to the base of the case was convex [ROUNDED] so it was only applying a small amount of friction at or near the primer pocket.

I went to the K&M holder/with power adapter: http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/neck-turner-tools/power-adapter-with-shell-holder.html

because the portion that applies friction is FLAT and delivers friction to a greater bottom surface of the case.
 
If you are handy, get yourself a gear motor on the bay, and set up a collet holder for it. Constant speed and torque at about 1/3 the cost of the machines for sale.
 
brxbrad said:
Plus 1 on the K&M and chuck it in a drill, only put the cutter in a vice with wood blocks. Works great.

DON"T put the Cutter in a Vice.

You want the cutter to Float [in your hand] so as not to impart the slop/movement in the drill, onto the brass neck. You'll end up with highs and lows in the neck brass, if you do.

That's the reason why 21st Century adopted the float into their new lathe design. "The floating design of our neck turner and case driver allows the case mouth (bore) to run on the arbor absolutely concentric. Therefore allowing O.D. to be turned concentric with I.D."
 
+ 1




Outdoorsman said:
brxbrad said:
Plus 1 on the K&M and chuck it in a drill, only put the cutter in a vice with wood blocks. Works great.

DON"T put the Cutter in a Vice.

You want the cutter to Float [in your hand] so as not to impart the slop/movement in the drill, onto the brass neck. You'll end up with highs and lows in the neck brass, if you do.

That's the reason why 21st Century adopted the float into their new lathe design. "The floating design of our neck turner and case driver allows the case mouth (bore) to run on the arbor absolutely concentric. Therefore allowing O.D. to be turned concentric with I.D."
 
Outdoorsman said:
I started years ago with a Sinclair but found that the portion that applies friction to the base of the case was convex [ROUNDED] so it was only applying a small amount of friction at or near the primer pocket.

Curious... a brief examination of my Sinclair tool led me to believe the clamping action between the chuck adapter (with primer pocket centering mandrels sized for both large and small primers) and the required cartridge holder provided sufficient friction against 75% of the front surface on the extractor rim, as does the K&M product. It seems to work fine for me when necessary though I admit a preference to using the 1/2" chuck un-aided.
 
The only one that I have used is the K&M with the drill converter. I use a Milwaukee cordless and always have a spare battery fully charged. I hold the turner in my hand and when I reach full depth, I pull back slowly and steadily on the turner. I think this method gives me a better finish and more accurate/even final dimension. It takes a few cases to get the feel for the correct drill speed and pressure. One minor problem that I encountered with the K&M system was when I decided to use the optional ergo holder. I had my finish dimension set without the ergo holder. The turner is held into the turner by a set screw. Tightening that set screw changed my finish dimension by .0002" per side, or.0004" total. I don't see a great advantage to the ergo holder, but if you get one, just be aware clamping the turner into it will result in a turn dimension change. Only my experience and opinion.
 
Outdoorsman said:
I went to the K&M holder/with power adapter... because the portion that applies friction is FLAT and delivers friction to a greater bottom surface of the case.

Would someone be willing to post a small picture of what Outdoorsman is describing please?

K&M's photo leaves some room for interpretation (left side, complete tool) while Sinclair's is more illustrative (right side, just the drill adapter).

I'm curious how K&M allows for a case centering function.
 

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timeout said:
I don't see a great advantage to the ergo holder....

If you have large-ish hands the holder makes K&M's tool much more comfortable to hold onto.

There are other ways to accomplish this though if you're at all handy with hand tools.

It does need to "float" however; clamp the turning tool down & your brass will suffer.
 
spclark said:
Outdoorsman said:
I went to the K&M holder/with power adapter... because the portion that applies friction is FLAT and delivers friction to a greater bottom surface of the case.

I'm curious how K&M allows for a case centering function.

The case centering function is performed by the cutter's mandrel, when you slide the case's neck over it, while turning the neck.

The reason I wanted more friction, was to prevent the case from spinning in the holder when I was turning necks. More friction allows me to turn more brass off in one pass. Ken Markle [the original owner of K&M] once told me that during an experiment, he was able to turn .015" off a neck in one pass.
 

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