Best system for swaping bbl's on a Savage

[M-61]

I'm about to attempt this for the first time....lots of concerns.
I have a Savage BR 12 in 6.5x284 and have a 30BR Krieger barrel I want to switch to. I have go gauge, barrel vise, and an action wrench. Also a spare barrel nut and recoil lug, and of course a barrel wrench. Ny scope mount I cut flush with the end of the action on installation so it would not have to be removed because it hung over the nut. The scope I am thinking should be removed since this barrel has never been off and I have read horror strories in that the barrel nut could be very tight from the factory. My plan would be afetr the 1s removal I can alter the wrench to clear the scope for swapping. I thought I would stamp a register mark on the action and barrel nut for future swapping. Does the factory use loctite on the install? Do use any heat on the nut for the 1st removal? Would you secure the action OR the barrel in a vise for the action or a barrel wrench on the barrel for removing the nut? My thought was the barrel wrench secured and whack the barrel nut wrench. Or should the action be secured in a padded bench vise? I have the tools, the bench etc.,.....just wish I could watch it being done once. Thanks.

 

[DennisH]

I did make oak action blocks for the vice

I have changed many Savage barrels using the method above. Locate 2 pieces of oak 2x4's, 8" long. Screw them together evenly. Drill holes in the seam leaving enough wood so it's holds it's strength on the ends. Drill the holes smaller than the barrel your removing. loosen the screws on your 2x4's, insert the barrel ( I always add matte paper or paper folders and wrap the barrel where I am going to clamp it), tighten your vise, your not going to hurt the barrel, remove the nut and unscrew the action, then install your action on your new barrel and reverse the process. Our gunsmith recommends "never sieze" on the barrel threads when installing the new barrels.

I snug the nut after confirming headspace, and your ready to go. Just did one Tuesday, still no issues.

I never have had a issue removing the nut, at least not yet!

JMO & .02 worth.

Dennis

 

[fm1947]

I assume the wood blocks came with your barrel vise if not Dennis told you what to do , but you did not say if you had an action wrench, it is very possible that you can simply put the barrel in vice, and with barrel nut wrench break nut loose barrel may spin right off, they do not use lock tight, it's very simple

 

[M-61]

Yes the barrel vise came with blocks and I do have an action wrench. DennisH & fm1947 Many thanks. It's really nice to have the guidance and this might be a bit late in my career to be doing this but I've always wanted to do it, I have the time, the stuff is there....so there is no reason except my own uncertainty. Wish I really could see it first...but with the reading I've done and your suggestions I will go forward with it. I will feel better when I see that jam nut turn! Thanks again

 

[NorCalMikie]

For the "first time" braking the nut loose, blocks and barrel in the vice, nut wrench on the barrel, smack it with a steel hammer to transfer the shock to the nut. "Pulling" the nut wrench is a waste of time.
Once it brakes loose, you're in business. Double check that the scope mount screws arn't coming through to contact the barrel threads before you start.
After the braking the nut loose the first time, there's nothing to it. Lots of lube when you go back together. And, you don't have to over tighten the nut when you go back on. Snug with a slight tap on the wrench will get the job done.

 

[fm1947]

M-16 good luck, and it's never to late to get into any of it. there is a video on you tube that was really good shows from start to finish, when you screw that new barrel on with and put go-gauge in keep testing to see when bolt won't close than back off a bit till it does close, it will be just a thread or two away from full in receiver., if you have the wheeler action wrench you have to grind out a spot where the pin is for recoil lug, if it's a wheeler. you will notice it real quick because recoil lug won't fit in the wrench right.

 

[M-61]

NORCALMIKIE & FM1947::::Thanks very much.It is a WHEELER action wrench. With the barrel tight in the barrel blocks secured in my bench vise, the jam nut wrench on, and a smart blow with the hammer. Understand. Also noticed when I put the scope mount on that front screw really might just touch the barrel threads so I will back that out some. When I put it on I tried to get a good measurement on the clearance between the bottom of the screw and the visible threads on the barrel.....best I could come up with it may just touch the barrel threads...maybe...but I will back it out....something to check when (if) I get the barrel off then tighten the scope mount to see if it does protrude at all. You guys have raised my confidence level 100%. Great tip on the head space too. I actually bought the go no go gauges.
I will look for that you tube vid before I start as as I say I would like to see it.
Thanks for spending the time to respond....it's invaluable to me!