dgeesaman
Gold $$ Contributor
That is all very helpful.My reasons for wanting to handload are that I really enjoy precision shooting, and I am good enough now that factory loads are less accurate than I am. Saving money is great, but there is a reason I am saving Lapua brass and looking at custom bullets. My factory Tikka .223 is still more accurate than I am, but eventually I hope to surpass its limitations (even with handloads), so I have an excuse to order a custom rifle for competition. I blame everyone on this forum for my new addiction.
I also plan to load for hunting with my Creedmoor. I expect my hunting rifle to shoot 0.5" MOA. It's the least I can do to ensure a clean kill. I expect the .223 to compete at 600 yards, and I expect the Creedmoor to . . . well . . . hit a dime at 3 miles. At least that's what I read online. No handguns yet, but I'm not opposed to the idea.
I'm no expert but that's basically what I've been doing for the last year and half and thoroughly enjoying it. My rifles are 6PPC-USA and I'm having a 6BRA built now. I've also loaded for .222 Rem.
I suggest getting started with a single stage press kit such as the Rockchucker Master kit. Single stage will allow you to work with consistency and attention to detail for low entry cost. And even if you buy a fancier press later, the single stage press will remain useful.
There are many many case prep, sorting, and development techniques and associated gadgets that can be applied. There are as many opinions as there are gadgets.
Although I'm not very experienced, I will share my experiences anyway because I feel like writing and I don't mind sounding sophomoric.
- Get a half decent set of dial calipers if you don't have one already. $50 should get you a very good tool.
- I bought a Hornady bullet length and case length gauge. I recommend this or some kind tool that does the same. These are sometimes called comparators. You'll need this to properly set case size length and to verify / control bullet seating depth.
- I've gotten into full length sizing each case every time. A well-fitting die that is set up correctly will move the brass as little as necessary and perform all sizing and primer removal in one step. The options for custom or well-fitting dies depend on the cartridge. When I used plain factory dies for full length sizing I found they pushed the brass way undersize for my chamber. Some of the die suppliers who do custom include Forster, Harrell's, and Whidden.
- I don't tumble or clean my cases each time. I have some with 10 firings on them that are ready for a good cleaning and annealing.
- I don't anneal my brass, at least regularly. If you want to minimize vertical for long range (>200y) shooting, that may need to be on your list.
- Find what is considered to be the most forgiving and accurate powder for the cartridges and stick with it for quite a while.
- Keep the most meticulous data that you can. I make a small card for each group I load and I keep those plus the targets I shoot.
- To maintain sanity, I keep my brass in groups of 25 pieces. I usually shoot (7) 3-shot groups and 4 sighters. I keep that set of brass together and keep track of the number of firings.
- "Custom" bullets are not actually custom, they are just made by a small shop with minimal marketing costs. They are usually a tremendous value and compete well or beat bullets in pretty boxes that cost 30% more.
- If accuracy is your goal, stick with target bullets. Perfect balance and uniformity helps.
- For long range accuracy, you'll need very accurately measured powder charges. Not a lot of shortcuts here. I invested in a Chargemaster Lite at the start and I continue to use it. It's more accurate than a powder thrower but not as accurate as a precision scale and trickler. Like the single stage press, I do believe the CM is a great tool to have, but it's not the tool to rule them all in maximizing long range accuracy.
- Buy a couple of reloading manuals. These are important for both the front matter and the loading data.
- For optimizing a load, there are many approaches. It seems the most popular and generalized approach is to choose a sensible powder, bullet, and primer first. Then test a range of powder charges and bullet seating lengths.
- Keep an eye out for experienced shooters / reloaders who can advise. Keep in mind they will each be doing things differently, and a few you simply shouldn't emulate or listen to. If you can line up a good mentor you'll move much more quickly.
- Handgun reloading is a bit different and mostly about low cost and minimal labor. I wouldn't worry about that right now.
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