Best seating depth measuring tool?

[rogn]

not when you SORT bullets by ogive length.
the whole idea is to pick a spot and move in and out to find the sweet spot.
the tools give you REPEATABLE reference points, so you can move in and out.
I do not get averages, I get repeatable numbers.

Im happy for you!

 

[bozo699]

not when you SORT bullets by ogive length.
the whole idea is to pick a spot and move in and out to find the sweet spot.
the tools give you REPEATABLE reference points, so you can move in and out.
I do not get averages, I get repeatable numbers.

100% Spot on!....
Wayne.

 

[Baer45]

Looking for the tool that measures the SD the a loaded round and attaches to calipers. It appears that both Sinclair or Forester no longer sell this tool.
Ben
This is the tool. Anyone have one? View attachment 1155448

I have several and like the Forester the best. The key is to always use the same one or make a note as to which one was used to measure....

 

[STS]

A barrel widget, made from the barrel stub and with the same reamer it was chambered with.

That works great.......right up to the point where the barrel erodes a bit then it is not a representation of the current state of the barrel.

 

[rsmithsr50]

maybe because the Hornady tool does the same thing cheaper/more calibers/ more uses.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

That works great.......right up to the point where the barrel erodes a bit then it is not a representation of the current state of the barrel.

It's still a comparator made from the same barrel and with the same reamer. Sure, the lands erode...every time the gun is fired. How does that change how you measure the loaded round or how you would use any other comparator?

 

[STS]

You can use the gauge as a comparator if you want to. But after the barrel erodes, it's not going to give you any accurate information with regards to your seating depth relative to the lands because the lands in the comparator and the barrel are no longer the same. If you have a base to ogive measurement when the barrel is unfired, and you set the seating depth to .020 off the lands, and then fire the barrel 500 times the comparator will not be able to duplicate that .020 measurement for you. The only way to determine how far into, or off of, the lands you are in a used barrel is to reestablish a new touch measurement and then move the bullet to the desired distance relative to the lands. Let say we set up a new barrel at .010 off the lands. 500 rounds later, after the barrel has eroded .030, we use the comparator number that gave us the original .010 off seating depth. Instead of the bullet being .010 off where we want to be it's now actually .040 off. The comparator can't account for barrel erosion.
I have a log book for every barrel I shoot. In that book I record the stem length of the Wilson style bullet seater to the touch point of the bullet that I use in that barrel. Some barrels have data for more than one bullet. As the number of shots increase I repeat the test to find the touch point and record that number. That number DECREASES as rounds increase because the bullet has to be seated longer to reach the lands. It's simple and it works very well. I use to make and use those barrel stub comparators years ago but quit using them all together.

 

[DngBat7]

This seems like a good one. You can put reloading bushings in it. Ones that are the diameter of your bore, lands, whatever

https://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/multi-purpose-overall-length-gauge-2/

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

You can use the gauge as a comparator if you want to. But after the barrel erodes, it's not going to give you any accurate information with regards to your seating depth relative to the lands because the lands in the comparator and the barrel are no longer the same. If you have a base to ogive measurement when the barrel is unfired, and you set the seating depth to .020 off the lands, and then fire the barrel 500 times the comparator will not be able to duplicate that .020 measurement for you. The only way to determine how far into, or off of, the lands you are in a used barrel is to reestablish a new touch measurement and then move the bullet to the desired distance relative to the lands. Let say we set up a new barrel at .010 off the lands. 500 rounds later, after the barrel has eroded .030, we use the comparator number that gave us the original .010 off seating depth. Instead of the bullet being .010 off where we want to be it's now actually .040 off. The comparator can't account for barrel erosion.
I have a log book for every barrel I shoot. In that book I record the stem length of the Wilson style bullet seater to the touch point of the bullet that I use in that barrel. Some barrels have data for more than one bullet. As the number of shots increase I repeat the test to find the touch point and record that number. That number DECREASES as rounds increase because the bullet has to be seated longer to reach the lands. It's simple and it works very well. I use to make and use those barrel stub comparators years ago but quit using them all together.

Thanks for stating the obvious. Again, it's just a comparator, none of which I'm aware, can take the place of measuring to the lands in your chamber. But it will fit your bullet very well and very much like your actual chamber...allowing accurate measurement of the bullet or loaded round....which is what was stated in the op.

Now, depending on how you make yours, it can be used to establish distance to the lands(new barrel), neck clearance, and shoulder bump. It can be used to sort bullets bto as well as loaded ammo, both bto and base to datum. All in one little tool. But no, it won't take the place of chambering a long seated bullet in your worn barrel.

 

[D Coots]

If you have an accurate rifle and know how to use it you don't need to do any measuring after the initial measurement. As the barrel erodes and accuracy starts to go away go into the lands a thou at a time with the bullet and let the target tell you. The only tools you need after the initial measurement is your bullet seater and your target IMO.

 

[bozo699]

If you have an accurate rifle and know how to use it you don't need to do any measuring after the initial measurement. As the barrel erodes and accuracy starts to go away go into the lands a thou at a time with the bullet and let the target tell you. The only tools you need after the initial measurement is your bullet seater and your target IMO.

I concur!....
Wayne

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I concur!....
Wayne

I'll second that!...or third. Lol!
I sometimes use the same micro seater die for several different guns, for myself and customer guns. That makes it easy to lose my "base" setting. I use the barrel widget to reestablish where I was when I started and gets me close. From there, I can re tune if need be, rather easily..similar to as you describe. Frankly, that's about the only time I chase the lands in my barrels, since going to tuners on everything.

 

[STS]

If you have an accurate rifle and know how to use it you don't need to do any measuring after the initial measurement. As the barrel erodes and accuracy starts to go away go into the lands a thou at a time with the bullet and let the target tell you. The only tools you need after the initial measurement is your bullet seater and your target IMO.

Exactly. And that is precisely why I don't bother making them any longer.

 

[STS]

Thanks for stating the obvious. Again, it's just a comparator, none of which I'm aware, can take the place of measuring to the lands in your chamber. But it will fit your bullet very well and very much like your actual chamber...allowing accurate measurement of the bullet or loaded round....which is what was stated in the op.

Now, depending on how you make yours, it can be used to establish distance to the lands(new barrel), neck clearance, and shoulder bump. It can be used to sort bullets bto as well as loaded ammo, both bto and base to datum. All in one little tool. But no, it won't take the place of chambering a long seated bullet in your worn barrel.

There's really no need for the condescending comment. I had no intent to insult you I hope you would offer the same courtesy to me. You bring up "what was stated in the op." This thread is about "The Best Seating Depth Tool" and I simply pointed out that the stub gauge is not a very useful tool for that after the barrel has been shot much. Yes you can get a measurement of cartridge BTO, but it is a useless number after the barrel has eroded some unknown amount. I made no comment regarding the other potential functions of those gauges because that's not what this thread is about. Since you bring those functions up I'll offer up these thoughts. Regarding neck clearance, I suppose it could be used as a crude clearance gauge. As an example, you insert a loaded round into the gauge and it slips in until the case shoulder contacts the gauge. Do you have .0001 neck clearance or do you have .005 clearance? There is no way to determine that with that gauge. When I chamber a barrel I gauge pin the neck diameter and record that. It is at times larger than the stated neck diameter on the reamer print. They grind to a tolerance. A micrometer on the OD of a loaded round gives me some accurate information regarding neck clearance if I know the EXACT neck diameter. No guessing involved.
Length to the datum line has some value if you are trying to size to a specific number. I have found that it's much more valuable to me to size to the exact chamber of the barrel regardless what a comparator says. I get the correct fit and it doesn't matter if it's .001 or .002. I don't need a comparator for that.
We're all free to use whatever tools we choose in our shooting. If you find value in those gauges that's great. I have eliminated the need for them and choose not to take the time to make them any longer. Thanks for the stimulating conversation.

 

[farmerjohn]

Been using these for a long time. They seem to get the job done for me.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101273351

+1

 

[Muley Buck]

The Forster Datum dial kit is extremely accurate and repeatable when paired with a quality set of calipers. I really enjoy mine. Only thing I don't like is not having a second dial body so I can have the datum wheel and ogive wheel always at the ready.

 

[bozo699]

The Forster Datum dial kit is extremely accurate and repeatable when paired with a quality set of calipers. I really enjoy mine. Only thing I don't like is not having a second dial body so I can have the datum wheel and ogive wheel always at the ready.

Miley Buck,
Won’t Forester sell them separately from the set? I always have to have at least two of everything. I guess I could just buy two full tool sets.
Wayne

 

[Muley Buck]

Miley Buck,
Won’t Forester sell them separately from the set? I always have to have at least two of everything. I guess I could just buy two full tool sets.
Wayne

Yes, I believe they will. I'm pretty sure Midway has just the body for sale on their website. I do plan on getting another one soon. I'm doing more on the bench now more than ever so it will prove to be useful.

 

[bozo699]

Yes, I believe they will. I'm pretty sure Midway has just the body for sale on their website. I do plan on getting another one soon. I'm doing more on the bench now more than ever so it will prove to be useful.

Thank you and yes I agree!... I have several sets of Hornady comparators and you can do any combo you want on a couple or three calipers at the same time ,.... very handy! Can’t get by without multiple sets now lol
Wayne

 

[T-shooter]

This method is the only way I've found to be repeatable. I can pull everything apart and reset up and get readings about .001". The rubber band is strong enough to pull the bolt and bullet up to the lands. Before I measure I push the bullet back and gently let it re-seat, then tighten the (green) drill stop (bottom of picture). I has some plastic tips from an old kit but if you used aluminum or brass rod with a square end, it would be of. You could also fill the end of a cleaning rod with epoxy. The rod needs to be reasonably close to the bore diameter and the drill stops need to fit closely. I had to polish the inside on mine to get a snug but moveable fit. Also If the end doesn't hit the ejector pin, there is no need to remove it. It doesn't see to push the case in at an angle. I push the rod and bolt back firmly locking both collars together, then loosen the green one after the cartridge is in the chamber.

I have one of the Hornady OAL tools but I gave up with it. I polished the lip of the case so there was no sharp edge or burr, and sanded the plastic rod until it moved under gravity. I tried letting the bullet and rod slide into the lands by gravity and still couldn't get consistent readings. I've seen some that say measure several times and take an average. Might as well not measure it all all and just guess!

The split case method kind of works but you never know if the bullet stuck in the bore and pulled out a little and it may move while being measured. I'm working on another way. I'm using the same bullets from my last cleaning rod test and seating them in cases. The bullet fit in a clean neck will be tight enough not to let it move under gravity but loose enough I can twist it with my fingers easily, then Loctite and chamber very carefully leaving it in the chamber long enough for the Loctite to set up. The bullet should remain in place and not move while measuring. I'm waiting on some warmer weather to fire form the cases to try this and compare readings.