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Best protectant?

This was my little test piece. Some steel I found laying around
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This is the steel trested with high concentrate saltwater:

This was the result from 9-30-2017 to 10-3-2017 in my cooler ductwork which was at constant 50%-70% humidity:
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Then I decided to be fare and add the Amsoil lubricant/protectant supposed to be 100% synthetic:
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One week later results in my next post
 

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Exactly 1 week later from being in my duct work @ 50-70% humidity constant air with high concentration saltwater on it:
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This was after I rubbed it with a dry rag just to see what would come off:
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So I guess I’m still going with Eezox!
Thanks for all your knowledge. Can always count on your buddies.
 
So I guess I’m still going with Eezox!
If you say so. I see rust on the Eezox plate, don't you? "A little bit rusty" is not unlike "A little bit pregnant".

Compare the Eezox plate with, oh, say, the WD-40 Specialist Long-term Corrosion Inhibitor plate in the comprehensive test I linked to.
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If you say so. I see rust on the Eezox plate, don't you? "A little bit rusty" is not unlike "A little bit pregnant".

Compare the Eezox plate with, oh, say, the WD-40 Specialist Long-term Corrosion Inhibitor plate in the comprehensive test I linked to.
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Ok so I’ve never used the specialist wd-40. I have used wd-40 regular on other stuff and I noticed it collects dust n grime. Is this specialist stuff different? I was just going with the one that rusted less. Maybe I should test specialist wd-40 to Eezox and see?
 
If you say so. I see rust on the Eezox plate, don't you? "A little bit rusty" is not unlike "A little bit pregnant".

Compare the Eezox plate with, oh, say, the WD-40 Specialist Long-term Corrosion Inhibitor plate in the comprehensive test I linked to.
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I just bought some eezox. What a test!?
Now I'm off to pick up some frog lube and wd specialist! Already have the one shot.

I was surprised to see that only eezox showed signs of rust in his hot dog test of 46 other products. Ill need to keep my hotdogs off my eezox coated parts.:confused:
 
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Please bear in mind the WD-40 Specialist Long-term Corrosion Inhibitor is not necessarily a good lubricant **, so other products may be better for moving parts. But as a pure protection against rust, it seems superior.

(** Go review the lubricity test results part of the article I linked to previously.)
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Please bear in mind the WD-40 Specialist Long-term Corrosion Inhibitor is not necessarily a good lubricant **, so other products may be better for moving parts. But as a pure protection against rust, it seems superior.

(** Go review the lubricity test results part of the article I linked to previously.)
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Holy cow what a test I do sheepishly admit I hadn’t looked at the link befor. Makes my test look lame haha. I guess frog lube and wd-40 specialist are the ones.
 
Holy cow what a test I do sheepishly admit I hadn’t looked at the link befor. Makes my test look lame haha. I guess frog lube and wd-40 specialist are the ones.
But as a lubricant, Frog Lube didn't fare very well in that test. However, I'm not sure how valid a test the lubricity part was, that's a more complex issue than a rust test.
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Holy cow what a test I do sheepishly admit I hadn’t looked at the link befor. Makes my test look lame haha. I guess frog lube and wd-40 specialist are the ones.
BTW, the steel you used doesn't look raw, it has a grey look, like it is coated with something.
'
 
Not at all. Once moisture enters the picture, it quickly penetrates, and the steel starts to rust, not the mill scale.
Why would we want to introduce a layer needing penetration before the rust starts? There is a random element then in play, in that the scale varies, both on a sample and between samples. You can see that in action by that way rust starts only in small random spots. In the test I cited the author took pains to rough up the surfaces to remove any possible substances between the steel and the ambient. In a controlled test of 46 different products that was only prudent.

Let me ask you: What steel part of any common firearm sports mill scale?
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There was a coating. Not sure of what kind I think I originally got it at ace hardware. I did sand with 80 grit sand paper the places I tested before applying.
 
Why would we want to introduce a layer needing penetration before the rust starts? There is a random element then in play, in that the scale varies, both on a sample and between samples. You can see that in action by that way rust starts only in small random spots. In the test I cited the author took pains to rough up the surfaces to remove any possible substances between the steel and the ambient. In a controlled test of 46 different products that was only prudent.

Let me ask you: What steel part of any common firearm sports mill scale?
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Those random spots you see are areas sans the mill scale. Mill scale isn't a coating. It is the layer you'll find on all hot rolled steel due to the process.
 
There was a coating. Not sure of what kind I think I originally got it at ace hardware. I did sand with 80 grit sand paper the places I tested before applying.
But it's obvious the grey scale wasn't removed entirely, in fact the plates all look a dull grey overall to these aged eyes. Look at the plates in that other test, and read how he prepped them, and why.
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