Best Method Bore Cleaning with a Patch
- Thread starter Gargoyle
- Start date
I won't come "unglued" because of another "cleaning" post. 
This is a forum where subscribers should feel free to ask questions, so I'll sincerely offer my opinion regarding your question.
I believe there is far too much made of cleaning a rifle bore. It must cause new shooters to the shooting sport a lot of angst. There are some basic common-sense things like using a rod guide, a high-quality rod, and a solvent that won't damage your bore. But beyond that, there is nothing magically or mysterious about cleaning a rifle bore.
As to your specific question, just center a properly sized patch on the jag, preferably a cotton flannel variety and it will do the job quite adequately. If the patch is the proper size, you will see impressions of the rifling grooves in the patch. But you don't want a patch that so tight that you have to force the rod down the bore.
In my opinion, it's the solvent that does the cleaning, not the patch. The patch merely pushes the fouling out once the solvent has dissolved it. I believe that a bronze brush improves the process of removing carbon fouling, but many don't believe this or don't use a bronze brush for fear of harming the bore. Do some testing and make your own decision.
This is a forum where subscribers should feel free to ask questions, so I'll sincerely offer my opinion regarding your question.
I believe there is far too much made of cleaning a rifle bore. It must cause new shooters to the shooting sport a lot of angst. There are some basic common-sense things like using a rod guide, a high-quality rod, and a solvent that won't damage your bore. But beyond that, there is nothing magically or mysterious about cleaning a rifle bore.
As to your specific question, just center a properly sized patch on the jag, preferably a cotton flannel variety and it will do the job quite adequately. If the patch is the proper size, you will see impressions of the rifling grooves in the patch. But you don't want a patch that so tight that you have to force the rod down the bore.
In my opinion, it's the solvent that does the cleaning, not the patch. The patch merely pushes the fouling out once the solvent has dissolved it. I believe that a bronze brush improves the process of removing carbon fouling, but many don't believe this or don't use a bronze brush for fear of harming the bore. Do some testing and make your own decision.
Gargoyle
Finder Outer
I ordered $25 worth of Tipton Nickel plated brass jags so I wouldn't get false reads with the copper solvents. After my OP I hit the shop and cut a 12ga cotton Hoppes patch in half for 30 cal barrel. Pretty smooth down the bore and the patch pops off when out the muzzle break. Rod comes back ready to apply another. I've always ruined a caliber sized bronze brush in the past by wrapping a 12ga patch around a 30 cal bruh. Those should last longer for me now.
I also got a longer cleaning rod so I would stop busting my knuckles on top of the stocks. I got that idea after reading the size guide from Dewey or Tipton. Pick a rod length where the brush clears the muzzle and the handle doesn't go over the stock. Think I would have figured that out before now.
I think I am having more fun with barrel cleaning since I got my borescope. Bunch of Eric Cortina videos and others got me motivated about cleaning. I adopted the "never clean" method and after 6-7yrs of that I discovered rust in my bores and the whole idea just seems to defy regular logic.
I also got a longer cleaning rod so I would stop busting my knuckles on top of the stocks. I got that idea after reading the size guide from Dewey or Tipton. Pick a rod length where the brush clears the muzzle and the handle doesn't go over the stock. Think I would have figured that out before now.
I think I am having more fun with barrel cleaning since I got my borescope. Bunch of Eric Cortina videos and others got me motivated about cleaning. I adopted the "never clean" method and after 6-7yrs of that I discovered rust in my bores and the whole idea just seems to defy regular logic.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
On a 30cal i use 2” round patches and a 270 or 7mm jag. Punch them a bit off center til they fit like you want and not get too tite. I like the 21st century nylon jags and pro shot patchesI ordered $25 worth of Tipton Nickel plated brass jags so I wouldn't get false reads with the copper solvents. After my OP I hit the shop and cut a 12ga cotton Hoppes patch in half for 30 cal barrel. Pretty smooth down the bore and the patch pops off when out the muzzle break. Rod comes back ready to apply another. I've always ruined a caliber sized bronze brush in the past by wrapping a 12ga patch around a 30 cal bruh. Those should last longer for me now.
I also got a longer cleaning rod so I would stop busting my knuckles on top of the stocks. I got that idea after reading the size guide from Dewey or Tipton. Pick a rod length where the brush clears the muzzle and the handle doesn't go over the stock. Think I would have figured that out before now.
I think I am having more fun with barrel cleaning since I got my borescope. Bunch of Eric Cortina videos and others got me motivated about cleaning. I adopted the "never clean" method and after 6-7yrs of that I discovered rust in my bores and the whole idea just seems to defy regular logic.
You will never know until you get a bore scope.
logandiana
Silver $$ Contributor
I prefer the Parker Hale style jags and a square patch wrapped around. Takes a little more time but I can get at least 4 passes per patch depending on how well I wrap the patch.
Waiting on coffee......
One reason,probably the biggest reason I use the Viva method (cpl posts up) is on cast bullets at JB speeds; slow burning powder residue has to be monitored. Stop reading if you're convinced cast leads barrels at anything over "lobbing" velocity.
Running cases full of IMR4831 behind bore riders where the bullets are swaged,spin tested/groomed,and in general the end all,be all of the discipline..... knowing,by reading the Viva, is the window to that combination's efficiency. It's like the "fine print" leading to the target so to speak. Saying,yes the target results are the final arbitration... but how you get there has an awful lot to do with it. Some powders "read" better on Viva. Part of this is the length of the "swab".... I just can't get a reading on small little square patches?
Back to regular programming....
One reason,probably the biggest reason I use the Viva method (cpl posts up) is on cast bullets at JB speeds; slow burning powder residue has to be monitored. Stop reading if you're convinced cast leads barrels at anything over "lobbing" velocity.
Running cases full of IMR4831 behind bore riders where the bullets are swaged,spin tested/groomed,and in general the end all,be all of the discipline..... knowing,by reading the Viva, is the window to that combination's efficiency. It's like the "fine print" leading to the target so to speak. Saying,yes the target results are the final arbitration... but how you get there has an awful lot to do with it. Some powders "read" better on Viva. Part of this is the length of the "swab".... I just can't get a reading on small little square patches?
Back to regular programming....
Last edited:
Emmett Dibble
Gold $$ Contributor
I'll play... I like square patches on a 22 shooters choice jag. I use it for everything and just double or fold the patches to fit the bore. For 22 I have a .17 rod and jag.
First picture 357 rifle with 100 plus rounds from a match last weekend, about a inch after the leade.
Second picture after cleaning.
Couple wet patches with Kroil to get loose stuff, then saturate with Mpro and let set for 15-20 minutes, 5-10 strokes with a good bronze brush, dry patch, saturate with Bore tech, let sit for 15-20 minutes, wet patch with Bore tech till almost no trace (2 -3 patches) dry patch. Pics were for a friend to show him my cleaning regiment.
I don't go for 100% because I am lazy, the rifle will be dirty after the first shot and I don't shoot benchrest, depending on the game 2 MOA to sub MOA is just fine.
All that to say, medium tension patch on jag and you will have no idea how clean it is without a bore scope.
First picture 357 rifle with 100 plus rounds from a match last weekend, about a inch after the leade.
Second picture after cleaning.
Couple wet patches with Kroil to get loose stuff, then saturate with Mpro and let set for 15-20 minutes, 5-10 strokes with a good bronze brush, dry patch, saturate with Bore tech, let sit for 15-20 minutes, wet patch with Bore tech till almost no trace (2 -3 patches) dry patch. Pics were for a friend to show him my cleaning regiment.
I don't go for 100% because I am lazy, the rifle will be dirty after the first shot and I don't shoot benchrest, depending on the game 2 MOA to sub MOA is just fine.
All that to say, medium tension patch on jag and you will have no idea how clean it is without a bore scope.
neither of the methods you listed. A tight-fitting patch wrapped around a Parker Hale style jag. To get the fit you want many you may have to buy many sizes of patches and even cut some to make a snug fit to the bore. It was hard for me to get the hang of wrapping one up on the jag and getting into the bore guide, but I am kinda retarded. With a little practice I like the way this works the best
I was thinking if I pour my wife's coffee down the tube using my trusty plastic bore guide, and a funnel of course, it will defiantly melt down to bare metal. Then just let it dry. This way my bullets will wake-up before they go to sleep and fly faster. HE HE!
Don't ever pour coffee into any firearm. This is a joke.
Don't ever pour coffee into any firearm. This is a joke.
Last edited:
+1 for a bore scope. Teslong showed me my bores weren't as clean as I thought.I'll play... I like square patches on a 22 shooters choice jag. I use it for everything and just double or fold the patches to fit the bore. For 22 I have a .17 rod and jag.
First picture 357 rifle with 100 plus rounds from a match last weekend, about a inch after the leade.
Second picture after cleaning.
Couple wet patches with Kroil to get loose stuff, then saturate with Mpro and let set for 15-20 minutes, 5-10 strokes with a good bronze brush, dry patch, saturate with Bore tech, let sit for 15-20 minutes, wet patch with Bore tech till almost no trace (2 -3 patches) dry patch. Pics were for a friend to show him my cleaning regiment.
I don't go for 100% because I am lazy, the rifle will be dirty after the first shot and I don't shoot benchrest, depending on the game 2 MOA to sub MOA is just fine.
All that to say, medium tension patch on jag and you will have no idea how clean it is without a bore scope.
DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
Same for me. Looking lengthwise down a bore doesn't tell you much. If you can see something wrong like that then it's REALLY bad.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.