Best calipers for reloading

[Ackman]

Trouble with most digital calipers is they round off to the nearest .001 - round off. With dial it's not dfficult to see when something's .0002 or .0008, or be very close. I have a vernier but my eyes aren't as good anymore. If I saw a digtal that read to .0001's, accurately, I'd buy it.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Trouble with most digital calipers is they round off to the nearest .001 - round off. With dial it's not dfficult to see when something's .0002 or .0008, or be very close. I have a vernier but my eyes aren't as good anymore. If I saw a digtal that read to .0001's, accurately, I'd buy it.

Ehhhh...see post 6 and click the link. Even in a lab when they are brand spankin new, they are simply not designed for that kinda accuracy from the factory, and in trained hands. I respectfully suggest you use a quality mic to get reliable and accurate measurements that are required to be under a thou or so. IME, too many digitals show a resolution that is considerably better than their own claims for accuracy. I wish it was outlawed, personally, for a tool to have better resolution than accuracy. I've seen calipers with 50/millionths resolution!) It makes too many people assume resolution equals accuracy, but it doesn't. We can make a tool measure what we want it to with very little influence. Subjectivity and user influence...within the design...is part of the actual accuracy of a tool.

Don't take my word for it, though. Check the link(post 6) and go to Mit's own site for proof. Even the very best calipers are simply NOT designed nor intended to be a tool for measuring anything in tenths. Again, please check for yourself! Been in the machining game since 1987. I'm not making this up for any reason at all.

 

[bulletpruf]

I like Fowler for good quality at a reasonable price, but lately, I just go to Amazon and buy something for $30 or so and check them a standard. For reloading, I have Werka - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C34PLYND?tag=accuratescom-20 and Kynup - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X8JQ8L5?tag=accuratescom-20 - one primary and one backup. They're rated 4.6/5 and 4.7/5 on Amazon.

Come to find out Project Farm likes them, too.

 

[Killick]

I have 2 Lyman calipers (made in China) and as long as I don’t drop them they work perfectly fine for reloading. No thinking about or fiddling with batteries or pushing the wrong button or fluttering digits. Just pick it up, check zero, close the jaws on 2 surfaces and read the dial. I use them to check my mics and vice/versa. Give me mechanical over digital all day…except for powder and primer weighing. (…and of course, cleaning patches)

 

[AckleymanII]

Rough in with a caliper, then go to a micrometer. Using gauge blocks is a real eye-opener on how a caliper's measured dimension can vary with hand strength. You have to train your fingers to measure accurately using a gauge block. Best to pinch the jaws closed with your fingers, not using the wheel with your thumb.

There are different kinds of batteries to use in the electronic versions. The cheap batteries can give weird readings as their charge nears the end. If you drop an electronic, you may kill the auto shut off, mics/calipers. When purchasing any kind of electronic, I like to get one that has an On/Off button. The worst thing is that tool companies will change models, then the parts replacements for the auto shut off may not be available.

 

[WSnyder]

as I find every time I want to use battery operated stuff, it needs a new battery, that always torques me a little.

A Mitutoyo caliper battery lasts for years even when you often forget to turn them off.

 

[kenhwind]

I will admit that the cheap Harbor Freight eats batteries, even if you turn the thing off.
Just about all of these are made in China these days.

The Mitutoyo I have is okay, the rack isn't covered, and I managed to dump powder on them once and got lucky and they were lined up at 12 o'clock when I put them back together. I just didn't want to use the two "0" dial any longer.

 

[LCazador]

I have been looking at upgrading my cheap digital calipers which I have had for 20 years or so. I have heard good thing about the Mitutoyo brand. I see a large price spread between the ones online at EBAY auction site, vs. the ones from industrial sellers, such as MSC direct.

Are the one on the auction site knock offs? I don't mind buying once, crying once. Just checking what you all use and is it worth the investment.

Your thoughts please.

There are a lot of copies of the Mitutoyo for half the price. Pay the price for a genuine Japanese Mitutoyo.

 

[Fast14riot]

Ehhhh...see post 6 and click the link. Even in a lab when they are brand spankin new, they are simply not designed for that kinda accuracy from the factory, and in trained hands. I respectfully suggest you use a quality mic to get reliable and accurate measurements that are required to be under a thou or so. IME, too many digitals show a resolution that is considerably better than their own claims for accuracy. I wish it was outlawed, personally, for a tool to have better resolution than accuracy. I've seen calipers with 50/millionths resolution!) It makes too many people assume resolution equals accuracy, but it doesn't. We can make a tool measure what we want it to with very little influence. Subjectivity and user influence...within the design...is part of the actual accuracy of a tool.

Don't take my word for it, though. Check the link(post 6) and go to Mit's own site for proof. Even the very best calipers are simply NOT designed nor intended to be a tool for measuring anything in tenths. Again, please check for yourself! Been in the machining game since 1987. I'm not making this up for any reason at all.

I couldn't agree more. I'm not a machinist but did work in metrology and QA for parts inside military things that go boom. I've gotten into arguments on social media with machinists who insist that the half-thou on their calipers is consistent and accurate across the entire scale. Calipers are great for a lot of things, but for accuracy and precision less than 1K, they are not the tool for the job. Its like the difference between a drill press and a mill.

 

[lotech]

I use two dial tools, a Brown & Sharpe and a Starrett. I've used cheaper tools. Cheap ones work very well, but don't seem to last nearly as long as good stuff, unless you use them only occasionally. The cheap tools won't stand up to heavy use. I use a caliper just about every time I handload (almost daily) and may use it multiple times during a load session. Spend a little more and get good calipers. Same for a micrometer. I have no use for any such tool that requires a battery.

 

[Syncrowave]

I will admit that the cheap Harbor Freight eats batteries, even if you turn the thing off.

To me, depending on batteries for a caliper makes about as much sense as depending on batteries for a wrench.

 

[nwmnbowhunter]

Get two mititoyo from reputable dealer.

One is great and then the other always has a comprarator or something on it.

 

[rwj]

I’ve been a Mitutoyo customer since 2013 when they introduced the AOS Digimatic series. It is purely electronic in that it uses an induction encoder for measuring. No rack/pinion gearing or dials. The large digital display is easy to read for my tired eyes!

https://www.mitutoyo.com/webfoo/wp-content/uploads/2129-AOS-Calipers.pdf

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I’ve been a Mitutoyo customer since 2013 when they introduced the AOS Digimatic series. It is purely electronic in that it uses an induction encoder for measuring. No rack/pinion gearing or dials. The large digital display is easy to read for my tired eyes!

https://www.mitutoyo.com/webfoo/wp-content/uploads/2129-AOS-Calipers.pdf

Okay now I see who I-guaging borrowed the “Absolute “ from.