I have around half a dozen different beam scales and they all work on the same principle, however there are a few things to look out for. Top of the range would normally be considered to be the RCBS 10-10. It is manufactured by Ohaus (as most reloading scales are) it has floating Agate bearings, it is magnetically damped, it has an extra weight that can be used as a check weight and allows the scale to weigh over 1000 grains. It also has an "approach to weight" indicator and is a self contain unit when packed away.
Another top of the range scale is the RCBS 304, this is a large upright scale, it's very accurate but I don't think its still made.
The RCBS 505 and the 502 are both very good scales, both magnetically damped and have floating Agate bearings but have a slightly different poise settings.
The cheaper Lyman scales like the D500 are not quite so sensitive as, although the have Agate bearings they are fixed. (Ohaus first patented their floating agate bearings in the 1920 and everyone else were left in the dust for the next 20 years. They were the first to introduce magnetic damping to reloading scales in, I think, 1968 and again every one else was left behind)
Redding tried to go it alone and went with fixed hardened steel bearings and they have oil bath damping. Hornady and Dillon use a sort of rolling steel bearing that seems to work well.
To my mind the very best scale is the Lyman M5. it is now no longer made but it was the forerunner of the 10-10, again made by Ohaus but more sensitive than the 10-10.
Although I am a great fan of Lee products in general, I'm not a lover of the Lee scales.
Any beam scale is only as good as the knife edges and bearing setup so if you are buying a used set check it over. The agate bearing should never ware but you need to look at the steel knife edges through a jewellers eyepiece. They need to be clean and sharp, infact dirt/dust is nearly always to blame for sticky inaccurate scales. Take them right apart, take the bearings right out and wash everything with lighter fluid and a toothbrush. Check the magnets have no hairs of wirewool etc. sticking to them and put it all back together. Check them through the range with some check weights and you are ready to go.
By all means get some digital scales but I would never rely on them when working up new loads or working with maximum loads.
This is the Lyman M5

and the 304
Typical damage to knife edges
Chipped

Blunt
And a good 502 in action
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnVOoGd1bDU
These are just my observations, other shooters have different ideas.
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