mattri said:
I've heard a lot of good things about the 200. In fact my boss has one in .223 that is very accurate.
How do they stack up against the Savage 12 series?
Also, if you wanted to modify the gun farter down the line, better barrel, trigger etc how hard is that?
I like the idea of geting into a accurate rifle at a good price and being able to improve it as I go, just don't want to shoot myself in the foot.
mattri
The Stevens is a good low budget thin barrel sporter rifle. A truck gun if you will. Like any Savage it is upgradeable, at home by you, no smith needed.
For your stated uses I believe its the wrong choice. As a beater gun its great. Something to use in even fun competitions its the wrong choice. The thin barrel will heat up way to fast just like every sporter.
The plastic stock is admittedly a flimsy piece of plastic. Not even a good boat oar
Stevens is a ultra inexpensive offhand hunting rifle. You can get them as cheap as $250.00 brand new if you look real hard. (could cost a little more nowadays, I don't look for them)
Its not a shooter for bench work at long range with extended rates of fire. You want at least a varmint weight barrel with a laminated wood stock like the VLP series. Or even better models if you wish.
You made it clear the gun you were looking for was not for hunting. I took that to mean you were looking for something more suited to accuracy off a bench or bipod. The heavier barrels are suited for target work where more rds faster downrange are the norm.
In short the Stevens would need to be upgraded right out of the box to suit your needs
For your stated uses you would need to upgrade at least the stock and barrel right out of the box.
Savage engineers came up with the floating bolt head and barrel nut to save money in manufacturing costs. Turns out the floating bolt head is an aide in accuracy without the need for custom fitting bolt to action. The barrel nut allows them to headspace barrels without the need to custom cut the chamber for one specific action.
It justs turns out this ease of manufacturing allows any shooter with a wrench to rebuild his rifle in many configurations for CHEAP.
As cheap as aftermarket barrels are for a Savage you still can't beat factory prices. Spend a little more for a factory Sav designed for the type of shooting you want to do. Learn with it and upgrade it later after you get a feel for what you want.
Savage once was a not so good rifle. Lots of bad barrels came out of the factory. Thats where they got such a bad name. In the last 15 years they turned that company around 180 degrees and now IMO make one of the most accurate out of the box rifles on the market. Thier actions are not as smooth as a Remmy. The cost to have one timed and trued is considerably less than a Remmy(thats the general consensus anyway, I never felt the need to have it done) Might be a little clunky cycling the action but after the trigger is pulled they really shine. To me anyway thats what counts.
FWIW don't go by the manufacturers suggested retail you see on the Sav site. You should pay roughly $200 less than that from a dealer. I would imagine that goes for Remmy too. Not sure tho.
My original first Sav was a 12VLP in 204 Ruger. Learned to shoot and handload with that gun. Love the caliber for its extreme factory accuracy out to 200yds. I'm now on my fifth factory 204R tube.
My best scope is a Night Force 12X42 BR. It still sits on top of that factory 204 even though I have semi customs with Pac-Nor, Shilen and Kreiger barrels in various accuracy calibers.
Care to quess why
By the way, I'm not recommending the 204R for 600yd target shooting. Theres better choices for that.