Bench Top Finish?

[barrowsr]

I'm building a workbench for my gunroom using an oak plywood top. Can anyone recommend a finish resistant to Hoppes #9 - in the event of a spill? I have one of those nifty Boyt mats but I realize that "stuff" happens.
Thanks,

Robin

 

[Deton8tor]

I just finished my bench as well. I used an oil based paint on mine. So far no issues!

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

Hand rubbed oil. Minwax makes one. Available At most home depot's or Lowes. Takes elbow grease, time, and some more elbow grease. Keeps it wood grain "looking". Otherwise, slimy old oil based enamel used on battleships works too....yuk.

 

[jonbearman]

Polyurethane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just dont let a spill lay there for hours if it happens.

 

[BoydAllen]

Personally, I don't think that using bore cleaning solvents indoors is a good idea, and if you aren't careful you will find out that brush splatter, as it exits the bore is gets to places that you did not plan for. I take it to the garage for cleaning chores, and make sure that I have a little ventilation. I realize that this was not your question. When I want to protect a wood surface, I lay something over it, and don't depend on the finish. If you don't, I think that over time, you will end up with a "distressed finish". For working tops, something like plastic laminate is preferable, if you want to dress it up. It is available in some reasonably attractive wood patterns.

 

[barrowsr]

Thanks to all who have answered. I have all those finishes in the woodshop – just need to decide which ones to use. Probably use brushing lacquer in the lower cabinet and shelves – its fast and looks good. I hadn’t considered the smallness of the room and fumes – I can leave the door open and use an exhaust fan. I built the room for gun cleaning and gunsmithing because it’s clean and dry. The garage is not an option for those activities but I will be mindful of the air.

 

[Larryh128]

Mine has a plastic laminate top (formica) that really doesn't care what you spill on it. I also installed a ventilation fan which is very nice when cleaning barrels. I understand the beauty of wood and trimmed mine with oak but I went for maximum durability.

 

[22XC Guy]

I agree with all the above mentioned, I enjoy wood working occasionally and built a few rifle cleaning vises, when my shooting partner and needed a wider front rest, I made new replacements.. I used BRIWAX on them.. After several years of cleaning hunting rifles, to the range and back etc.. In our case, all I had to do is disassemble, re-sand the base surface and reapply another coating... I'm sure Frank will vouch on the modification and after finish from these being built ~10 years ago..

http://briwax.com/

Hope this helps,

Steve

 

[langenc]

I have not used Hoppes in years.

To avoid the 'smell'
problem I use Gunzilla or Ezzox. Both are smell less and aqueous, gunzilla at leats. My wife appreciates it, also.

 

[fguffey]

http://lastnlast.com/ZipGuardWoodFinish.php

F. Guffey

 

[barrowsr]

Thanks guys,

The Zip Guard looks the most promising - I'll have to check with the local paint stores. I glued a layer of melamine over 3/4 inch plywood for a smooth surface on my reloading bench - just wanted something different for the bench I work on the guns. This room albeit small is a good cabinet making experiment. I'll be making some raised panel doors for the lower cabinet today. I really appreciate all the suggestions.

Robin

 

[CJ6]

I bought laminate counter top to put on mine, about $80 bucks and tax (depending on length). Looks great and holds up to the chemicals I've ever used.

 

[mj2evans]

I have built a lot of cabinets. I hate poly (looks like plastic unless hand rubbed thin coats) but this is the time/place to use it. Its the toughest one part / non-catalized finish you can apply in your garage. Lessen the "plastic" look:

Thin first cost 30% with mineral spirits, brush on (sort of flood it on, smooth out any puddles)
Recoat twice with manufature suggested times (finish build coats)
Steel wool (fine) after 48-72 hours (longer if humid) - use synthetic steel wool - to get out dust nibs
Wipe out residue (paper towel with a little mineral spirits)
Hand run three - fours coats (1 brush coat = three hand rubbed) - this part hides some of the plastic look, you will need to thin poly some
All build coats should be gloss, if you use satin it will start to look dull or cloudy
You can use satin on last two hand rubbed coats if you don't want gloss or wait a week or two and rub down with steel wool to knock of shine

Keep area clean, poly dries slow and is a maganet for dust. Most people say fast dry poly is not as tough as regular (I really can't tell a difference).