bell and carlson varmit tatical stock on a rem 700 SPS

[gatorman]

Just change over the stock on my rem 700 sps rifle with 20 inch barrel.

The factory stock was like a tupper ware type,lol

Any way the stock seemed to fit very well and all that..

When going to the range a test fireing it at 250 yards the groups were terrible
compared to the tupper ware stock.The barrel is floated with the bell and carlson
as I can slide a piece of paper all the way down...I rechecked the action screws,etc.
No difference.And this was a good shooting load with the old tubber ware..Maybe
I should have left well enough alone..But wanted a better stock for F Class shooting.

I am wondering if the tang should be floating as well...The action appears to be nice
and snug in the new stock like it was in the old one...Anyone have any idea what might
be the problem? Or I suppose and can call Bell and Carlson and ask them...Thanks John

 

[fredhorace77]

if this one has the aluminum bedding block i personaly would not trust it...ive had to rebed several stocks with so called aluminum bedding blocks...I noticed after several rounds were fired i took the action out of the stock and looked at the bedding block and the bottom of the action and noticed where the wear was on the action and stock...needless to say the action was touching the bedding block about 5%...this is just completely unacceptable for accuracy...also one other thing that might have changed your good load is if the old remington stock had a pressure point in the barrel channel towards the end of the forend..if this new stock doesnt have the same exact pressure point and pressure in the same exact area it will completely change how well the load shoots. I would personaly bed the stock and then try again..you may end up having to tweak your load to get your accuracy back

also look at how much of your recoil lug is touching bedding block...or should i say not touching...id be suprised if more than 30% was making contact with the recoil lug.

Im not trying to bash the stock but i personaly believe it is impossible to machine a peice of aluminum to match a receiver..especially when the stock is sold to fit whom ever's gun....this stock is a decent stock but like all accuracy seeking people bedding is always on the top 3 things to do when a gun is built

 

[boltfluter]

As was suggested, bedding will make a world of difference. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out. 8)

Regards, Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[jbpmidas]

I have one B&C now and had another one on a diffeent rifle. I also have two HS Precision stocks with the aluminum bedding blocks. All have given excellent accuracy and I have not bedded any of them. They must be properly torqued though. I torque mine to 65 in-lbs. on tow of them and my 3 screw Savage gets 55 in-lbs. on all three screws. The only prep the bedding blocks need is to ensure theey are free of debris, such as adhesive and make sure the action screws have a flat clean surface to torque to. The problems I had with mine were when they wouldn't hold torque. With some investigation, I found small areas of adhesive on the bedding block and some of the stock finish in the action screw recesses. Fixing those problems has allowed these stocks to perform great!

 

[gatorman]

I appreciae all of your replies..Went to the range again this morning...I tightened the action screws
according to instructions.The tang first and then the front one...Accuracy is still not worth a damn.

When you mention the recoil lug being bedded? Does this mean that the recoil lug is suppose to be
in contact with it..And as far as the other stock,there did not appear to be any barrel pressure points
like some have..

I am about ready to put the old stock back on...Is there someway I can put something on the action to see
maybe where it is or is not rubbing or whatever? Thanks for any more advice you have to offer...John

Is there anyway to tell if the action is sitting on the aluminum pillers...maybe it is not..

 

[Glenn Powell]

Get some lipstick, smear it on the bottom of the action, screw it in a place, remove, and see how well it is bedded. Any place there is no lipstick, is where there is no bedding. Just clean it up when done, don't need any sissy rifles out there.

 

[D-mon]

Hi Gatorman,
I would highly recommend that you get your rifle bedded in that stock.

It is probably true that in 80 or 90% of the cases, a stock with an aluminium block will make a rifle shoot better than with its factory stock, but as you can see you just fell into the 10% category.
I have the same stock but for an howa rifle, and did not get descent accuracy till I bedded the action in the stock.
If you cannot do it, get a local gunsmith to do it. It will be well worth the money.


Les baer are using those stocks for their custom rifles, and they are still doing bedding jobs in them...:http://www.lesbaer.com/boltaction.html

Good luck.
ND

 

[fredhorace77]

yes the back side (receiver side) of the recoil lug needs to be touching the stock...most people prefer that the sides,front,and bottom of the recoil lug touch nothing...I personaly along with a couple of my benchrest shooting friends, bed the entire recoil lug...but this is a personal choice but basic gunsmithing is to just bed the rear of the recoil lug...you can use tape and put it everywhere on the recoil lug except the rear when u bed it..when u pull it out you can peal the tape off and it will give you clearance between the recoil lug and the bedding and still allow the rear portion to touch...check out youtube videos on bedding...it is very simple to do..but take caution that you do your homework and remember take your time..this is a process that you DO NOT want to try to hurry thru...do it right..and do it once

 

[RJinTexas]

My smith uses B&C stocks to replace factory stocks on hunting rifles, the 1st thing he does is take a Drammel tool to the aluminum bedding block and remove enough material to decently glass bed them. He stated that just skim bedding them doesn't last long and when the bedding is to thin it tends to flake off.

 

[fredhorace77]

My smith uses B&C stocks to replace factory stocks on hunting rifles, the 1st thing he does is take a Drammel tool to the aluminum bedding block and remove enough material to decently glass bed them. He stated that just skim bedding them doesn't last last London as when the bedding is to thin it tends to flake off.

ive had problems with flaking also...i used brownells accu glass...i would like to try devcon but havent got a chance to buy any yet..dont know if it would get rid of the flaky problem or not..ive learned as your smith has, i try to take out enough material to allow a good layer of bedding compound

 

[gatorman]

I notice Brownells has two different bedding's..

Which one do you guys think is the best to use? John

 

[RJinTexas]

John I prefer the one with the aluminum block as then I don't have to miss with putting in pillars, and when you remove enough of the block to properly float the bedding I've not seen any flaking.

 

[ARshuter]

...I tightened the action screws
according to instructions.The tang first and then the front one...Accuracy is still not worth a damn.


I thought you always tighten the front screw first

 

[jbpmidas]

I always start with the action screw closest to the muzzle and work my way up in 5-10 pound increments.

 

[mshelton]

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Pretty easy to do, a little daunting at first but take your time and it'll come out right.

 

[amlevin]

Here's one gunsmith's solution

http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i186.html

I did this to my Remington 5-R Milspec in an H-S precision stock.

Just like he illustrated in his info, I was getting rub marks in only a couple of places. When torquing the action screws you could tell by the amount of yield that something was moving. I added the "shims" (that I made myself from hardened washers) and this yield disappeared. Groups tightened up as well. Got rid of some nasty horizontal stringing.

Only makes sense that the Rifle manufacturer's product has one set of tolerances and the stock maker's product another batch of errors. Both within limits but sometimes they don't play well with each other. Unless one has a pile of stocks and checks each one with a marking compound, so they have complementary tolerances, some will be OK and others not so much. I prefer to just bed and get on with shooting.

 

[the punisher]

Here's one gunsmith's solution

http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i186.html

I did this to my Remington 5-R Milspec in an H-S precision stock.

Just like he illustrated in his info, I was getting rub marks in only a couple of places. When torquing the action screws you could tell by the amount of yield that something was moving. I added the "shims" (that I made myself from hardened washers) and this yield disappeared. Groups tightened up as well. Got rid of some nasty horizontal stringing.

Only makes sense that the Rifle manufacturer's product has one set of tolerances and the stock maker's product another batch of errors. Both within limits but sometimes they don't play well with each other. Unless one has a pile of stocks and checks each one with a marking compound, so they have complementary tolerances, some will be OK and others not so much. I prefer to just bed and get on with shooting.

Thanks for the info, kinda like the better mouse trap......