Bedding a 10/22

[Idaho-Lefty]

@ nicholst,. I'm familiar with, the KIDD rear "Tang" and using, 2 screws. I bought, a Little Crow Gunworks, GRX "Recoil Lug" for, my wood stocked 10/22, "Sporter model", a couple of months ago. It's, a V Block that holds the Barrel in place and has, a small "Lug", like, a Big Game Rifle has ( $40.00 ). I've Glass bedded, the Action / Lug and 2" of bbl shank then, "Free floated" the rest of bbl., (on my Factory bbl gun). I'm still waiting for, my new Green Mtn 20" sporter bbl. I don't need, "One Hole accuracy", I'm just, looking for Nickel sized groups at, 50 yards ( reliable, repeatable, minute of, Sage Rat Head, sized groups ). After the new bbl with, the Bentz chamber, is put on, I will search for "best ammo", Hey, I'm having Fun, "experimenting" ! Yes, I know that, I could have bought, a KIDD but, this one, is about, 40% less Money and a Chit Ton of Fun, "playing with" this, 5 pound "carry Hunting Rifle" ! I try to stay away from, RFC, as I'm NOT building, a "Match" Rifle ( but have read, a few of the Articles ). I have, 2 , 1/2 MOA, "Tack Drivers" that, I reload for ! I wanted a Rifle to, Hunt small game, informal Target shoot and Plink with, that I don't have to, reload for !

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

Just got back from Testing, the above mentioned, "free floating" all but, 2" of the bbl., IT,.. "works" !!!
Gonna go with "it" when, I bed the New Barrel, next week, as I shot a couple of, Nickel to Quarter sized, nice round, groups @ 50 yds with, the Win. Bulk 36 gr, HP's, in the Factory barrel ! Totally happy, with this, "consensus method" and the GRX Recoil Lug, .. so far !

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

Yesterday, I received my new G M barrel, a beautiful, 6 Groove, 20" SS "Sporter", .650 muzzle Dia. and Bentz Chamber then, cleaned it and "lapped" it a bit with, a little JB's, slathered on, a Patch covered Brush about, 8-10 smooth, strokes to de-burr the Chambers, Throat area and Lands. Then installed, the GRX "Recoil Lug" and Torqued screws to about, 40 inch pounds. T'was, a nice tight, Receiver / Barrel Trunnion, "fit" ( Had to Freeze barrel and tap bbl on with, a leather Mallet ). Cleaned ALL the JB's out and tested for Function and started, the Break in process w/ 3 Mags of SK and Wolf Lead bullet, ammo. Cleaning bbl. and RE-bedding with, the Free floated barrel, as per Method noted above,.. Today !
I'm DEEP in, the Rabbit Hole and already thinking about, a higher powered, Scope,. LOL !

 

[doclu60]

Well, I don't normally post here, but this thread piqued my interest.

First off, a barrel is not fully 'floated' unless the bedding does not contact it. Now, in some applications does this give the best results, no. To explain, in regards to this thread, I have pillared and bedded five 10/22 clones. Three were Kidd actions, all with the rear tang second action screw, and 2 were single action screw builds. Despite some of the opinions about RFC, one of those rifles is in the RFC Hall of Fame and the rest were very good shooters. I only have 2 out of the 5 left, as I have moved my interests to other avenues and sold off 3 of these rifles. From what I have seen posted here, any of the 3 rifles sold would have been WAY more in accuracy then posted here. Even my 'mule' that was used to test applications of new techniques that were later used on more expensive parts. That rifle was a single screw and totally free floated on the barrel. The rear was foil tape shimmed and the barrel was very light....a Magnum Research carbon fiber 17" barrel. There was no contact in the bedding with the barrel or the v-block. Rifle, with proper ammo would shoot sub 1/4" five shot groups from a front rest and rear bag. Stock was a basic Hogue over mold, not really known as a 'premier' base for good accuracy. Barrel contact ribs in the stock were relieved for a true free float.

My comment about full floated barrels and not full floated being the best is this. A 10/22 rifle that has a second action screw in the rear will benefit from a true full floated barrel, more so than one with a single screw will, in spite of my above comments about my 'mule' rifle. That barrel was very light. This will be the case most of the time. Back when the 'Ultimate' sub forum on RFC was was really ultimate, this was proven again and again. We even relieved bedding under the lug that the v-block and barrel attachment screws were in. The rifles back then were extremely accurate and didn't cost any more than one that was bedded using less effective methods. If bedding a single screw action, I can see the need for bedding to go past the action and contacting the barrel when using heavy contour target barrels.

Another thing to look at, which costs nothing if you have an inch pound torque driver, is torque on the action screw if it's a single screw action. If the action is two screw and has bedding and pillars, this is less of an issue.

While some have posted their rifle is not a match rifle, who does not want more accuracy from their rifle? JMO and JME.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

@doclu60 ,. I am trying out, the New, Little Crow Gunsmithing's, GRX steel, "Recoil Lug", so didn't want or, need, the 2nd screw / rear Tang for, "what" I'm, putting together. Yup, I know all about, KIDD rifles and their famous accuracy and they ARE,.. nice ! Personally, I'm not a fan of "Bull Barrels", tho. This, 2 pound "Sporter" barrel will be, bedded from the Back "corners" of the receiver to 2 inches in front of the Recoil Lug. YES, I agree, the barrel is not, "fully Floated". I've already tried this method with, the old Factory barrel and it shot, MUCH better than, ever before and I like the "Shank" of my barrels being "supported" with, Glass (Old habit's,.. die hard ! ) I'm hoping for, 1/2" to 3/4" max, 50 yard groups with, Hunting ammo as this, is an inexpensive, carry Hunting Rifle at, 5 to 5.5 pounds and sports ONLY, a 2 x 7 Burris scope. I could always remove, the 2" of glass bedding from, under the barrel, IF, it doesn't shoot, "well" ! With One Screw and the bedded, recoil Lug it should, "hold" better than, most factory Ruger's. I'll be posting, the results, later next week. You can see this Recoil Lug and Installation Video, on YouTube,..type in, "Gain accuracy ! Little Crow Gunworks GRX " ( my bedding method, is different than his, tho. ).

 

[doclu60]

Idaho-Lefty, a lot has gone on in the 10/22 world since I put together one. I'll check out this Little Crow lug. I moved on from the 10/22 craze some years ago. While I only have the two left, for sentimental reasons, I will never part with the two I still own.

My 'Mule' gun would have been right in the arena as to what you are building. Although it was a bull barrel, the MRI carbon fiber was very light, though they did carry a hefty price tag. With the Hogue stock and a Nikon 3-9x40 scope, the rig weighed around 5lbs, if I remember correctly, and would have met your accuracy goal easily with Mini-Mags. I shot a lot of Mini-Mags through that rifle, as well as high end match ammo. It was my truck gun for several years until I gifted it to a friend, who is my FFL, and he has never charged me a transfer fee!

As to barrel support, experimenting and making gains or losses are easily fixed, as you have mentioned. I was never a fan of them, BUT, ended up installing a rubber pressure pad on my POS B-mag .17 after working endlessly on trying to get it to shoot to my standard. It did help and that rifle's action is bedded front and rear. It shoots good now, until the crappy ammo that is made for it screws you, which happens on every group it seems!

Your comment on bedding with glass, I think was pointed at the foil tape comment I made. To be clear, all the other builds I did after the 'Mule' rifle were bedded with 2-part epoxy, front and rear. The 'Mule' was front pillared and bedded in epoxy and the foil tape was in the rear only.

Good luck on this 10/22 you are putting together. I will follow your results here. Stay safe.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

@ doc,. Yup, there are many ways, "to skin a Cat" as far as, bedding ideas and pressure points go. The rubber pressure point, under the barrel, sounds like another GOOD one that I could try if, this method doesn't produce descent groups for me. I'm hoping for a "good" Green Mountain barrel as I've heard they make pretty good barrels ( and some are, outstanding ). They are about, $100 less the the Kidd bbl. Like you mentioned, the .22, is Ammo "dependent" and a body, must find/ test for the best one for, each Rifle in the price range, that THEY desire. I have, Fed Auto Match, CCI mini Mags, SK+, SK Pistol Match and Wolf Match Extra to try ! You,.. stay SAFE, too !

 

[doclu60]

Lefty,
I only had 2 Kidd barrels, both are gone now. Believe me, while their reputation is quite good, you never heard much about the ones that were returned for replacement and I know personally there were quite a few of those. Barrels, to some extent, are barrels. You either get a hummer, or you get one that leaves you lacking. In hand lapped custom blanks, you are more likely to get a good one if whoever does the finish machining does it correctly.

I was fortunate both my Kidd barrels were good, one was exceptional. I have seen some killer rifles using Green Mountain, and they have always had a nice price point. My last two 10/22 clones have a custom fitted and threaded to receiver Benchmark on one, and an off the shelf slip fit Shilen on the other. The Shilen is pretty cool. Light varmint taper, 22" long. Still a heavier barrel than your needs dictate, but the build it was used in balanced very nice, both aesthetically and how the rifle felt in your hands.

In a price point you have quoted for ammo testing, I may also suggest Norma Tac-22 and Norma Match 22. Both are produced by RWS. They are the same as RWS Rifle and Rifle Match, if memory serves correctly. I have used both and still do in my Ruger MK III comp target pistol. I never bothered lot testing them, but they were quite consistent in target performance, both rifles and my pistol.

This thread has inspired me to get one of my remaining 10/22 clones out and put it back together. It's been sitting in pieces for about 5 years. As of now, I can not participate in my normal hobby, sanctioned RFBR matches, as most all are being canceled because of the pandemic. My home club is open though and shooting one of my old builds would be fun. Please keep us updated when your build is finished. Later.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

Agree on barrels, some are great,. others ? Will keep, the Norma ammo, in mind but, have about, 7 varieties, already,.. surely one or two, will "shoot" !
Yes, you should put your .22 "clone" together and go out to, the Boonies or, Home Club for some Fun !
I have fun, putting together "cheap" Rifles that, shoot well ! I can afford, KIDD's or, a Joe Chacon rifle but, I don't, compete and there's some satisfaction in doing IT, yourself ! I have read some good things about, the cheaper, Green Mtn barrels if, bedded correctly and Broke in, right, they can shoot, well. I mainly, resurrected this Post for any "Newbie's" or others, having / wanting, a better, 10-22 experience. Lots of idea's and LOTS of, confusion about, what, works / doesn't !
After much reading, I found out, the Consensus Today is, bed, the Action and from ZERO to 3" support of, the barrel. And even putting a rubber Patch under the barrel "works" ! Lots of choices, and fun to, experiment !
Be inspired,.. Build THAT, Rifle and ENJOY ! Life's too short to,.. sit Home !

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

Well, It looks like, the "CONSENSUS Method" of bedding about, 2" of, the barrels Shank portion ( with, free floating, the balance ) and, the New GRX Recoil Lug,.. WORKS ! After only, 3 Mags thru my New Green Mtn. barrel during, the "Break in process" I am getting, 10 Shot, Ragged Hole, Nickel sized, Groups using, SK Plus and Wolf ME, ammo ! "Flyers" seem, gone even with, Fed Auto Match or, Win 36 gr, HP's ! She's, a "Hummer" for, a Minute of, Squirrels Head, 5 Pound, carry, Rifle ! IF, you buy / use, the Little Crow Gunsmithings, GRX, recoil Lug,.. be SURE to "Bevel" the front edge ( towards muzzle, edge ) of, the bedded, recoil Lugs, "Slot" to, enable,.. assy / re-assy, back into, the stock, easily ! I HIGHLY recommend, the GRX Lug and Green Mtn., Barrels !

 

[doclu60]

Lefty,
Glad your happy with your build.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

I just got done measuring, the first 10 shot, groups that, I shot at, 50 Yards after ONLY, a 30 Round, bbl "Break in",..
I cheated a bit, on the "break in", by carefully polishing bbl, using, 8-10 Strokes of JB's on Patch / Brush, thru the Bore / Throat area, first ! I decided that, I didn't want to tear the gun down and clean, every 10 Shots ( Pain in, the Ass ! ) Now have about, 90 Rounds, thru bbl. total ( It's gonna be, FINE ! ).
Win. Bulk, 36 gr, HP's, .980 ctc
Fed Bulk, "Match" ( Not, Auto Match ) @ 1,200 FPS .935 ctc
SK Plus,.. .680 ctc
** Wolf Match Extra,.. .385 ctc ( one hole )
And NO "Flyers" with, the Bulk ammo tested ! Will test, CCI HP Mini mags and SK Pistol Match, later.
For, a 7 X scope and a 2 1/4 Pound Trigger, I'm,.. HAPPY ! Who knows, the groups might "shrink", a little more. I know, it could do better with, a 1.5 lb. KIDD Trigger and 4.5 x 14 Scope BUT, I'm NOT going, any further down, the "Rabbit Hole" ! My 5.5 pound, "Sporter", hammers Whistle Pigs out to, 85 Yards, so far ! EXACTLY what, I wanted to, accomplish ! And, it's totally, RELIABLE to, Function and Fire and ALL for less than,. $850.00 !

 

[David Eberts]

A couple of years ago I bought a ruger 10/22 "Centenial " model. It had accuracy issues right out of the box. After disassembly I determined that the freebore length was to long. So took the barrel to the local gunsmith and he cut .008 thou off the face. When I got it back I used a Dremel with a grind disk to relieve the ejector hook pocket. This model Ruger has a plastic stock. I have shot a lot of different guns over the last 60 years and am a fan of free floating barrels so I free floated this barrel, then used JB weld to bed ONLY the recoil lug. I also filled the voids in the forearm with fiberglass to stop what flexing there was. I also drilled a 1/4" hole in the back end of the bolt housing so I wouldn't have to remove the barrel to clean the bore. Next came the wedge that holds the barrel to the housing. I removed some of the metal from the front of the wedge on the barrel ( just enough so the block will not touch at that point) and made sure that the block contacted both the barrel wedge surface and the housing surface without bottoming out on the flat part of the housing where the bolts go through ( lots of careful filing ). Install the barrel in the housing and the block with bolts and slowly , lightly draw down the bolts while rotating the barrel back and forth to make sure it ends up true. Tighten the bolts freehand until they are snug then torque them to 20 inch pounds. Reassemble the weapon ( I use an aftermarket recoil spring, aluminum charging handle assembly and lube the spring with a combo of oil and STP mix on the rod. Install the assembly in the stock and tighten the main mounting bolt to 20 inch pounds. Before I did this work there was no group at 100 yds .There were flyers all over the target and some were even outside the target. Now I can get a 2" group at 100 yds using CCI MINI MAGS and slightly larger grouping with Remington lead. Good enough for the p dogs @ 100-125 yds. Dont get your panties in a wad over this as I'm just saying this is what worked for me. Fair winds and following seas. The PHANTOM PHIXER

 

[338 dude]

Since the 10/22 only has one screw & Somewhere I read or heard of bedding the full barrel rather than the action (because of just the one screw) ... What has been your experience ? My 10/22 has Kidd trigger system & bolt & a Volquartsen barrel . Not BR accurate but for my purposes it does well. Just thinking about squeezing a bit more without spending a ton of $$$. Already the Kidd alone cost more than what I paid for rifle.
Leave alone or what ??
Thanks

I bought a CZ for much less than I was going to put in my 1022 and it is so much more accurate I’m very pleased

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

I bought a CZ for much less than I was going to put in my 1022 and it is so much more accurate I’m very pleased

LOL,. your CZ can't, "Chop up" a Sage Rat, as fast as, my Custom 10-22 Ruger, CAN !
Man these things, shoot, FAST and Accurate for ONLY, a few Hundred more, Pew, Pew, Pew, AKA, Tripple Tapping ! Got, only a $1,000 Bucks "invested" including,.. Rifle, 3 Mags, GMX Recoil Lug, a New Green Mtn barrel, Volqt. parts and Burris 4.5 x 14 Scope ! GREAT Fun but, for some reason, the Sage Rats, do NOT seem to be enjoying my New Rifle, as much as, I do ! Noticed this ( effectiveness of, the Tripple Tap ) a few weeks ago,. I shot slightly behind, a big Fat, old Whistle Pig ( T'was Windy ! ) and he ignored my first bullet, next Two,.. quickly finished him ! Gimmee, the Ruger, when surrounded by, Sage Rats in, a Fire Fight !

 

[searcher]

I went through the process accurizing my 1022. Took several barrels, lots of parts swaps and trying new things. Ended up with a Lilja barrel, new stock, bolt, trigger group, etc - as many will eventually do. The last thing I did was full-bed the thing and it provided more improvement than on any bolt gun I ever did. That the entire action is held in place with one screw - it must have excellent - and very solid - bedding just to be able to re-torque the receiver in the same each time. Get the action screw sold by Volquartson and adding an Aluminum pillar is way to go too. Shoots really well with cheap ammo.

 

[Iowa Fox]

I think every 10/22 build will be a little different. About 6 years ago I did one that only has a couple Ruger parts. The poly trigger housing with safety and the mag, mag plunger & spring. I used a laminated stock from either tactical inovations or tactical solutions, can't remember which. The inlet for the action I used was a very nice fit. Instead of using a mixed compound bedding I used two strips of blue painters tape to really center it up in the action. I used a McGowen tappered barrel so I had to open the channel slightly. I used a rubber band from asparagras cut in half for a little up pressure in the barrel channel of the stock. This was all just kind of an experiment, the darn thing shoots so well I have not moved the action screw since the day I screwed it together an it has several thousand rounds down range now. Looking back on this one I would say the barrel, good receiver, and light trigger are the biggest things making it a good shooter. Like seacher said " it shoots very well with cheap practice ammo".

Also if the barrel to receiver fit isn't tight I don't think any bedding will help.