Basic Setup Questions...

[privateer]

Thanks for all the good advice so far...

I initially got started reloading rifles to save money on ammo. That was also the primary concern when I bought my reloading setup.

Now I've really got the bug to improve my accuracy....

I have a Lee single stage cast iron press. My dies are the basic Lee sets with the factory crimp die. I bought it because that's what the guy who taught me used. It works ok and I get great results when comparing my handloads to factory ammo, my .223 and .308 handloads are all generally around +/-0.5 MOA, but I know I can do better. I'll have other questions about how brass prep later. I prime cases, with the Lee priming tool. I use a Lee powder measure and then trickle weigh the powder with an old Olhaus scale that was tuned by Scott Gauthier Parker (great recommendation by you guys here btw).

Now I have questions about the dies I use..

1. Is the Lee resizing die that also deprimes, a decent choice. If not what do you guys recommend?

2. I find the Lee seating die to be somewhat inconsistent, but it may also be my inexperience. For example, if I am loading for a COAL of 2.85", I start around 2.95" and tweak down to 2.85" with the first round. After that, however, the 2nd and 3rd rounds are off by +/-0.03". After that it seems to settle down and be consistent, but not always. Is there a certain technique or procedure that I need to try or learn? Do I need a different die? If so, please recommend one, preferably a moderately priced one.

3. Do I need the factory crimp die? Is accuracy affected by the use of the crimp die? If I should use it, how light should it be set? If I shouldn't use it, should I do something else?

 

[fdshuster]

privateer: (1) I've never used any Lee dies, so cannot comment on them. The majority of my dies are the redding type S neck bushing FL sizer die, and my favored seaters are the Forster Ultra Micrometer Benchrest. (2) If you are measuring c.o.a.l. and getting different lengths, that's completely normal, since the bullet o.a.l. vary by as much as .015", especially so with the ragged tip of the hollow points. What is important is the location on the bullet ogive that makes contact with the leade. It can be verified with a bullet comaprator like the Sinclair "nut" or the gauge attachment for the Sinclair or Hornady chamber overall length tools. (3) To crimp or not to crimp. Rather than repeat myself, go to "small stuff, 17's, 20's, 22's" and scroll down to "223 and crimp". Pro's and con's there: you decide.

 

[jr600yd]

Frank gives excellent advice. Like him I have never used Lee dies so no comment there. Another reason you're getting different lengths is your procedure. I found "twinking" the OAL as you describe usually seats the bullet a few thousands deeper than I want. It is caused by the resistance of the neck as the bullet is seated in it. After seating a bullet to X length then adjusting the seating stem a few thousands lower and re-seating the same bullet the inside of the neck doesnot have the resistance to the downward force as a case without a bullet being seated.

I'm sure others will comment on "To Crimp or not To Crimp". My experience is that crimping isn't worth it unless your firing in an "Auto" mode. Do you need a new set of dies? That's up to you.

Good Shooting, Jim

 

[gambleone]

I don't have lee dies either, so I can't help there. Both above posts gave good advice. You are going to get variations in oal without using a bullet comparator. Hornady or Sinclair both have them. When I started reloading, I ran into the same problem. You came to a good site. A lot of good info on this site.
Happy shooting