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Barrels unscrewing from the action.

I heard Ron Hoehn offered 50 bucks to anyone that found it. No one ever did. I know definitely that it went over the hill on the big end of the range.

Took one off at Oak Hills years ago. Put a for sale sign up. The guy that bought it beat me with it at the match the next month....

Later

Dave
 
Different torque figures might affect headspace if the shoulder of the barrel or the face of the action was compressed enough, I suppose.
When I put a barrel on, I torque it to all I can pull on an 18" bar. I put lithium grease on the threads if it a stainless action and barrel. Light oil is fine with a CM action (galling is less a concern).
I recently removed the barrel from an action which I had barreled in 1982. I don't think I torqued it on all that hard, but it took a lot of effort to get it loose, and it broke loose when a bang!
I think, when barrels loosen up, it is not because they unscrewed; it is because the threads have displaced a litlle, then the barrel is loose. WH
 
I torque barrels to 50# but I’ve noticed it takes closer to 60# to remove them.
I wasn’t sure why until Alex’s post and now it makes sense.
 
I'm a Savage guy, when I am happy with the headspace, I use witness marks and then smack the wrench with a hammer and then check my witness marks and go gauge. Any time I remove the action from the stock I check my witness marks and the nut.
 
Kroil & a heat gun can help with super tightened barrels,Savge started Gluing them a few years ago when they went to the smooth barrel nuts,. lots of elbow grease, a Gorilla & 2 =900 pound mother effers Help lol
 
I torque my switch barrels (.308, 30BR) to 40ft/lbs. Stainless barrels on a stainless action. Use never-seize compound. Very careful, definitely don't want them galling!

Luisyamaha
 
How many gall from bad fit instead of lubrication...Interested in real Proof.

I've filed down the threads a bit when having problems years ago, and that solved it on a couple. A couple not. Heavy handed is not your friend...don't force it. You'll be a sore loser.

Later

Dave
 
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Let's hear Real Experiences from a barrel that screwed on with no problem, and that couldn't be removed, and lube used, how much torque or methods of installing.

REAL EXPERIENCES ONLY.....


Later

Dave
 
Last edited:
Let's hear Real Experiences from a barrel that screwed on with no problem, and that couldn't be removed, and lube used, how much torque or methods of installing.

REAL EXPERIENCES ONLY.....


Later

Dave
Dave, I've had one problem only in all that I've screwed on and off. I was checking headspace as I was chambering a SS barrel on a SS receiver. I did not use lube for whatever reason. Yes, it was a mess, but I was able to save both. It left a lasting impression on me!
 
Let's hear Real Experiences from a barrel that screwed on with no problem, and that couldn't be removed, and lube used, how much torque or methods of installing.

REAL EXPERIENCES ONLY.....


Later

Dave
Dave, the closest I came was when I changed lube to something I wanted to try. I installed it with my witness mark method that checks at a skosh over 100 lbs/ft. for break away readings unfired. Fired has always taken a bit more but not horribly so.

Anyway... with the experimental lube, that barrel simpy wouldn't crack loose with my normal method...Kelbly's t-handle wrench in a barrel vice. That sucker stayed in place like a fat kid at a dessert bar. I put a short section of cheater bar on it and it popped loose. I went back to my normal lube and it came off normally last week.

More of me being a dumbazz and changing from something that works, than anything else.

Back to the kitchen as I'm cooking for 25 today for Christmas. -Al
 
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This is similar to my action wrench. Note the lack of wrench flats. I bought it from Kelbly's about a quarter century ago. One might think that they know a thing or two about tightening barrels. This one is being sold by PMA Tools, a company that has quite a bit of experience with such matters. Perhaps you overlooked the part where I mentioned that I have never had any problem doing it my way, and yes I always wash my hands.
View attachment 1615428
I’m with you. Only thing I do different is, with the wrench I will sneak up on tight until I get a good feel for where it stops and then finally come back maybe 30 degrees and give it a “ moderate” snap to stop With the T handle.
As Alex stated, they get tighter. This last year swapped out several new barrels, never had one get loose on me and typically zero change on my Dwight Scott sizer.
All this on a couple BAT ‘s and one Viper.
 
Hmmm, and here my normal process is to apply a light coating of the silver anti sieze and torque to 80ftlb.

Yes, when undoing them, a couple whacks with a 3lb hammer loosens them right up.
 
My Br barrels, I snap them on them give a slight tug on the wrench. Never had one come loose.

I occasionally carry my rifle to the bench by the barrel. Maybe this is where I'd find that it's loose "not feeling right"
 
I had a barrel come loose during a midrange F-Class match. I didn’t know what was happening as I kept adding elevation because the shots kept going low. By the end of the match I had added two inches of elevation from what should have been my 600 yard zero. The groups were also larger than normal. I found the problem after getting home when cleaning the rifle.
 

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