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Barrel Vise Recommendations?

I am interested in swapping out the barrel on a Savage rifle,would someone recommend a good Barrel Vise to me? I've looked online at the Wheeler with the oak inserts and the Farrel and the Grizzly plus some other makes/models that are similar. Some are aluminum others steel and most have V shaped jaws. What would be best? Thanks.
 
any of the "V" blok style will do nicely,,,,you will also need a wrench for the "nut" and an action wrench ,,,Roger
 
Best barrel vice I have found is the viper.
http://www.pmatool.com/product_info.php?cPath=94_108&products_id=338

You will need a nut wrench, but no need for an action wrench, the barrel vice will hold the barrel and all you need to do is break the nut free. The first time you break the nut free it will be tight, especially blued guns.
 
I've changed barrels on two Savages with only the nut wrench and an action wrench. I did have to smack the nut wrench with a rubber mallet. I followed numerous posts on the subject over at SavageShooters.com where most folks say the barrel vise isn't necessary.
 
Contact Jim Briggs at Northland Shooters Supply. He sells a high-quality action wrench and a barrel nut wrench that will work very well for what you want to do. He also sells pre-fit barrels of very high quality for your Savage. He will give you good advice on every aspect of what you are trying to do also.

Cort
 
Do you use tape or leather or cardboard etc. wrapped around the bbl when you clamp it in the vise or action tool to prevent marring? What do you favor? I am leaning heavily toward a pre-fit Criterion, but how about McGowen?Thanks.
 
One thing I think bears mentioning. If a scope was mounted and the forward most (towards muzzle) mount screw was not the shortened (proper length) that screw will reach the barrel threads. (acts like a set screw, going into the barrel threads and damaging them). Take the mount off and measure to see if this has happened. If it has, the barrel removal will not be so easy. Also if the front screw was installed with loctite (other than PURPLE non-wicking) it adds to the problem but a heat gun on that area liquefies the loctite. I find a barrel vise a handy tool besides removal. It's a nice way to hold the action/barrel while setting the head space....I install the gauge, turn the action, when it's close I just orientate the barrel/action so they are in a proper and comfortable position and complete the job. Just my two cents. And if you have the correct mount screw in none of this is a concern.
 
I used a McGowan with my Savage in 308. It shot quite well for me. I think the Criterion barrels are outstanding but I don't have any personal experience with them. Jim Briggs can offer you good advice on which barrel he thinks would work best. He has Shilens, Criterions and McGowen, I believe.

Cort
 
wmdron said:
Do you use tape or leather or cardboard etc. wrapped around the bbl when you clamp it in the vise or action tool to prevent marring? What do you favor? I am leaning heavily toward a pre-fit Criterion, but how about McGowen?Thanks.

Nothing. Stainless barrel clean on the surface, oak blocks tightened...very tight....have not had a slipping barrel yet. My experience in removing /switching barrels is limited only to Savage stainless barrels. (at least with anything you would hold to your shoulder).
Pac-Nor barrels have done nicely for me.
 
Cort said:
Contact Jim Briggs at Northland Shooters Supply. He sells a high-quality action wrench and a barrel nut wrench that will work very well for what you want to do. He also sells pre-fit barrels of very high quality for your Savage. He will give you good advice on every aspect of what you are trying to do also.

Cort

I totally agree. And the two wrenches cost less than $100.
 
Thanks to everyone for the much needed advice and suggestions. You've given me a lot to look over and think about. I've only done a little bit of basic home gunsmithing and now that I am approaching retirement I would like to learn and do a few things more.Thanks folks for pointing me in the right direction.
 
wmdron said:
Do you use tape or leather or cardboard etc. wrapped around the bbl when you clamp it in the vise or action tool to prevent marring? What do you favor? I am leaning heavily toward a pre-fit Criterion, but how about McGowen?Thanks.

In the viper vise I use nothing as the coating on the vise aid in traction. I may use a small amount of newspaper to keep from marking the barrel. In Oak blocks I use rosin or powdered sugar. The rosin can be bought at a sporting goods store, that handles baseball supplies, or from Brownells. As far as barrel go I have owned both McGowan, and Criterion they are both equal barrels, and shoot good.
 
This is what works for me. I made a jig that the barrel wrench fits over the nut and is stationary. You can't see it in my pictures but the barrel wrench is sitting in a notch on the jig. The action wrench starts in a slightly upward position and has room to be pressed downward to loosen the action from the barrel nut.

As far as installing the action, I had a 1-7/8" outside dimension pipe x 2" long split in half with nylon inserts with 1" inside dimension. This is put in a pipe vise.

Good shooting,
Gene
 

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Oak with 1.250" round hole and Brownells barrel removal rosin works best for me. Compacted rosin easily removed with carburetor cleaner, never leaves removal marks when using this method.
 
My self I like a action wrench the best. Remington works great on the small actions. A modified Remington works in the target actions. Larry
 
I have an additional remark,I use the nylon strapping material between the receiver wrench and receiver impregnated with rosin.It never slips and you don't have to tighten it so hard that starts to distort the receiver.Secondly I use an index card between a barrel vice and the barrel and torque it to 25 foot pounds and it never slips or marks anything.I have used pac-nor,shilen,mcgowen,criterion barrels and so far like the mcgowens the best with pac-nor being a high end barrel that shoots very accurately.
 

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