Barrel Temp. Remington 700 ?
- Thread starter falco1112
- Start date
You will get wildly varying opinions on this. To me shoot what you want to shoot, don’t worry about barrel temperature. For a 308 cleaning is not needed that often, if it’s nkt getting shot again soon maybe you want to put it away clean, otherwise every few hundred rounds it’s probably a good idea to clean a bit.
Welcome to the forum, Falco1112!
I have a Savage model 11 in 308 with a 22 inch sporter barrel that is used exclusively for hunting. It will shoot the first two rounds into almost overlapping holes at 100 yds. The third round will land about 1 inch out, high and right as the barrel is now quite hot. So for target shooting, there is little to be learned by continuing shooting without a complete cool down, and in this part of Texas in the summer that means waiting.....until September.
As for cleaning, copper build up in a factory barrel is the biggest issue. I'd recommend GunSlick Foaming Bore cleaner after every range session. That will remove copper and a lot of the powder residue however, you may find your barrel shoots better with a bit of copper build up. Only testing on your part will tell.
If you intend to shoot paper on a regular basis want to learn to do it well, I'd recommend you buy something with a heavier and longer barrel such as 24 to 26 inch varmint or bull contour, and perhaps something that will not kick the snot out of your shoulder and make you develop a flinch, which will really mess with your ability to shoot accurately. Something in a 223 Rem would do nicely. Lots of different types of ammo available and cheap to shoot.
I have a Savage model 11 in 308 with a 22 inch sporter barrel that is used exclusively for hunting. It will shoot the first two rounds into almost overlapping holes at 100 yds. The third round will land about 1 inch out, high and right as the barrel is now quite hot. So for target shooting, there is little to be learned by continuing shooting without a complete cool down, and in this part of Texas in the summer that means waiting.....until September.
As for cleaning, copper build up in a factory barrel is the biggest issue. I'd recommend GunSlick Foaming Bore cleaner after every range session. That will remove copper and a lot of the powder residue however, you may find your barrel shoots better with a bit of copper build up. Only testing on your part will tell.
If you intend to shoot paper on a regular basis want to learn to do it well, I'd recommend you buy something with a heavier and longer barrel such as 24 to 26 inch varmint or bull contour, and perhaps something that will not kick the snot out of your shoulder and make you develop a flinch, which will really mess with your ability to shoot accurately. Something in a 223 Rem would do nicely. Lots of different types of ammo available and cheap to shoot.
Most off the shelf rifles are intended for hunting. Most hunters fire one shot and the animal either drops or is wounded and runs, which means a follow up shot is not immediate. These rifles are meant to hit point of aim once and then not fired again. Try shooting one round and then cooling the barrel completely and then shot again. You may find that your rifle is capable of shooting one hole, three shot groups.
After 10 rounds shot my barrel temp is hovering around 122 degrees so I hold off for about 8-10 minuets for cool down. My rifle if left to cool completely it will fire that first shot wildly then settle in.
I’m curious, what makes you stop shooting at this point?
No reason I guess, just never felt the need to get things too overly hot. I have been on the range where guys have shot AR's till their barrels are glowing and that seems kinda silly to me but they are fun to watch.
I shoot highpower rifle, we don’t spend much time thinking about barrel temperatures. They do get fairly hot after two rapid fire stings with no ill effects. Just not sure why there is this concern about barrel temperature ( within reason of course).
I shoot Open F class and BR matches. We run, at a minimum of 20 rounds as fast as you can get them down there and never even think about barrel temps. Now .... my barrels maybe a bit larger in diameter than yours but I really don't think 10 or so shots back to back will do any damages to a stock barrel, some may argue this, but this is just my thoughts.
Darrin
Darrin
OMG That is the truth brother. MANY different opinions on this.... I run my barrels a little hotter than most shooters. Other than the temporary potential POI shift that the heat will cause I have my doubts on the permanent effects of the heat at THAT temp. I feel that you have to get your barrel much hotter to hurt it. I have had my FN AR very HOT before and it still shoots just as accurate as it ever has. Now, I am NOT saying we/I could not ruin a barrel if we wanted it just takes more heat IMO to do so. I weld and sometimes temper steel, it has to get very hot to change it's molecular structure. I don't know much and I try to always learn from the ones that have something to teach.
Have you ever tried to shoot until your groups opened up?
90% of the time I clean I use BoreTech carbon remover (carbon is what destroys your barrel not copper) and it gets some copper out but I try to leave some in the barrel so I will have no or little POI shift. Within reason, I like to push my equipment so I know what it and I are capable of. JMO
Good luck
As the barrel heats up (10-15 shots or so) I do notice a drop of about 1 inch at 600 yards. Not a problem though, just don't give up the 10 ring in allowance for what's coming. This is on a Krieger barrel, Borden BRMXD action.
Darrin
What do you attribute this drop to? I notice this quite concistanly.
I would guess that the bigger bore due to thermal expansion of the barrel could be a cause.
Do you mean a a POI shift 1 in. down? Or your group opens up an extra inch?
Same here
For handguns without adjustable sights, the load was tweaked to "regulate" the sights. Hotter lads shot lower, and lighter loads shot higher; completely counter-intuitively.
It appears the that hotter load had a shorter bore transit time, the result being that the muzzle flip and bullet exit happened while the bore axis pointed lower.
I know, I know, it sounds hokey, but still, it works exactly as advertised. Sauce for the goose (handgun) is probably sauce for the gander (rifle) as well.
So how does the transit time change? Hotter chamber heats the charge more before ignition, thus importing additional energy to the charge (I.e. warmer propellant encompasses additional latent energy prior to ignition).
Greg
It appears the that hotter load had a shorter bore transit time, the result being that the muzzle flip and bullet exit happened while the bore axis pointed lower.
I know, I know, it sounds hokey, but still, it works exactly as advertised. Sauce for the goose (handgun) is probably sauce for the gander (rifle) as well.
So how does the transit time change? Hotter chamber heats the charge more before ignition, thus importing additional energy to the charge (I.e. warmer propellant encompasses additional latent energy prior to ignition).
Greg
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