Barrel removal

[xpppcbr]

Ok i just finished removing a barrel from a new rem 700 I have for a rebarrel . so I have a wheeler setup with the barrel block and the big vise , well I have taken plenty off with this rifle but this was the worst barrel I have ever removed it was on tight , well I was wanting to ask what do you guys have to remove barrels ? im wanting to buy something good to were I don't have to fool with the blocks anymore and cause scuffs on the barrels .
let me know
chris

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Let the barrels get scuffed. Its the only way to hold them- just let it go. It also helps to keep somebody from buying them thinking theyre getting something. Any of the popular barrel vises out there will do a great job except the wood block ones. The viper and pma vises are very popular. Great scott shooters supply sells a vise made just for removing 700 barrels. A good relief cut in front of the lug will make life the easiest though

 

[Terry]

I use wood blocks in the barrel vise with rosin on then. The barrel wrench I use is the outside champing type with part of a 3x5 card between the action and the wrench. No marks on anything. We did have one I had to stick in the lathe and use a relief cut. That was interesting.

 

[Terry]

The Viper makes a great vice. No blocks needed. I still use 3x5 cards to protect the barrels.

 

[Judd]

The Viper makes a great vice. No blocks needed. I still use 3x5 cards to protect the barrels.

This ^^^^

Except I cut a toilet paper roll then wrap that around the barrel.

 

[GNERGY]

I use a hot air gun for about 40 minutes to heat up the action threads, it helps it come loose easier.
Tarey

 

[jds holler]

I use a hot air gun for about 40 minutes to heat up the action threads, it helps it come loose easier.
Tarey

THIS ^^^ is what I was going to ask. I'm not a gunsmith, but like most of us I've found that heat usually helps - sometimes incredibly for difficult threads.

I've often wondered why it's not a common "thing". Any down-side.?? jd

 

[GNERGY]

They say there isn't Loctite in there but something turns white when you heat them up.
Tarey

 

[Dusty Stevens]

They say there isn't Loctite in there but something turns white when you heat them up.
Tarey

Its a sealant to keep bluing salts out of the threads so they dont corrode. A propane torch is perfect

 

[Rick300]

This ^^^^

Except I cut a toilet paper roll then wrap that around the barrel.

Exactly what I do. Removed my first 700 barrel last week with a hair dryer on it for a few minutes and it finally came off with no marks. Scuffed the action though.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Drywall joint tape works good. I use old targets

 

[243Lapua]

Its a sealant to keep bluing salts out of the threads so they dont corrode. A propane torch is perfect

That's what I do. For really stock on barrels I use a plumbers butane torch and only warm up the action on the thread portion and I use the Sinclair barrel vise with the inserts to match the barrel countur and tighten. And also the Sinclair action wrench is what I use. A good solid hit on the handle usually loosens it.

 

[DaveTooley]

You have to capture the recoil lug. If it can't move then the barrel can't move.

 

[msinc]

Cut the barrel off with a lathe and parting tool, that is the safest way. Make no mistake, you will bend, distort or damage that action. I would avoid heating the action as well. By the time you get enough heat on it to release the barrel you have likely overdone it. Which is more important, the action {to use again} or the barrel you must have some reason to be removing?????

 

[AccelR8]

I have a big hydraulic press and I make hardwood blocks for each barrel by boring the blocks in the lathe. I try to duplicate the barrel taper when I bore. I use rosin in the blocks.

I heat the action with a high temp heat gun, never been brave enough to use a torch.

An aside; when I worked in the automotive industry I saw that in some of the plants they were using a thread locking compound that was clear. It looked like thick superglue. This was strong stuff. When they used it on certain Torx fasteners, the head of the fastener would strip out or the tool would break before the thread locker would let go. Heat was the key to loosening it, and also time. You needed to let the heat soak into the assembly long enough to soften the compound.

I wonder if the firearms makers are using something similar.

Anyway, my press and blocks have generally worked well. One minor issue is because of the depth of the press I have a lot of barrel sticking out, meaning I can't clamp the barrel real close to the action because then there's no room for the wrench. I put a little machinist's jack outboard under the barrel to help keep the forces rotational and not vertical...if you can visualize what I'm trying to say.

The last barrel I did was a very skinny barrel with a lot of quick taper down from the action diameter. But there was no straight section to the taper, it was a curve all the way. I could not get hardwood blocks to grip that barrel no matter what. So I cut if off in the lathe, then the cut-off shank that remained came out with my fingers!

One day soon I'm going to treat myself to a real barrel vice and from what I've seen the Viper looks like the best. For now I get by with the press.

 

[Ggmac]

I pour lead moulds of orig barrel . I use 4” c channel steel as the backing and the container for the pouring of thelead . It really just old wheelweights . Ive found the pure lead squeezes out sometimes . Use plenty of rosin and if i want no scratches i use leather on the barrel with the lead blocks .