Barrel removal

[dbaird]

How difficult is it to remove a factory barrel from a Remington 700. I have a action wrench (loading port) that I use for custom switch barrel rifles.

 

[Riesel]

Using that type of action wrench to remove a factory Remington kind of gives me the willies

 

[jbarnwell]

Don't try it! I use a very heavy wrap around type wrench for that job. It gives a lot of support for that task.

 

[Will Henry]

You may or may not be able to remove the action with a port entry wrench BUT you must be sure the wrench does not bear on the rails of the action. These rails are very thin and I have seen a half dozen which have been cracked by an improperly seated or poorly fitting wrench. I had one wrench which was made to work on both left hand and right hand actions and it would bear on the rail. I could see the potential for a wreck so I removed the left hand end and made another wrench for LH actions. By the way, I use the port entry wrench for removing factory barrels and have had no issues doing so. WH

 

[Will Henry]

I should probably add that I have been doing this for forty-five years and cannot guess how many hundreds of Remington barrels I have removed over this time. WH

 

[GerryM]

Best borrow a rear entry type wrench

 

[Will Henry]

Many rear entry wrenches are made so that they bear along the raceway and if the receiver is particularly tight, they can twist. Those which do not bear on the rails at all, must be made of a decent material (not mild steel) or the shaft of the wrench will simply twist. I made one with heat treated 4140 and on a really tight one, it will twist quite a ways until the receiver comes loose with a bang! With the port entry wrench (18 inches long and made from 1x2 key stock) I can set the wrench in place and give it a whack with a 3lb hammer.
When an action is real tight, either wrench puts a lot of stress on the receiver but they can take it OK. Small ring Mausers cannot take it and one must use an outside wrench on these; with a mandrel inside to prevent crushing of the receiver ring. WH

 

[hoz53]

Many rear entry wrenches are made so that they bear along the raceway and if the receiver is particularly tight, they can twist. Those which do not bear on the rails at all, must be made of a decent material (not mild steel) or the shaft of the wrench will simply twist. I made one with heat treated 4140 and on a really tight one, it will twist quite a ways until the receiver comes loose with a bang! With the port entry wrench (18 inches long and made from 1x2 key stock) I can set the wrench in place and give it a whack with a 3lb hammer.
When an action is real tight, either wrench puts a lot of stress on the receiver but they can take it OK. Small ring Mausers cannot take it and one must use an outside wrench on these; with a mandrel inside to prevent crushing of the receiver ring. WH

good tip about small ring mausers Thanks

 

[jackieschmidt]

I bought one of these 25 years ago with the head for Remington and Mausers.

But I agree, a well fit port wrench used properly will get the job done. With emphasis on used properly.

 

[msinc]

I almost never use an action wrench for removal unless I am in love with and intend to try and use the barrel again. Set it up on a lathe and relieve the barrel metal close to the receiver face until there is little to no tension. A parting tool works well for this. If you don't have a lathe no worries, go around it with a hacksaw until the tension is relieved. Not worth stressing the action to me.

 

[GNERGY]

I always use a heat ( hot air gun ) gun and heat the threaded area up ( about 45 minutes ) till I see the thread compound turn whiteish in the scope base hole. Makes it a lot easier to remove barrel.
I also use an action wrench like in the picture, but made it myself.
Tarey

 

[Evan]

Just curious, but is there any reason not to put some heat to the receiver to get the barrel to loosen?

 

[Evan]

I always use a heat ( hot air gun ) gun and heat the threaded area up ( about 45 minutes ) till I see the thread compound turn whiteish in the scope base hole. Makes it a lot easier to remove barrel.
I also use an action wrench like in the picture, but made it myself.
Tarey

Exactly my thought, except I would probably try a propane torch. To date I've only ever removed barrels that were installed by gunsmiths - well lubricated threads and not excessively tightened down so I've not had an issue.

 

[GNERGY]

I wouldn't use a torch, hot air gun goes to about 1000 degrees.
Tarey

 

[msinc]

Just curious, but is there any reason not to put some heat to the receiver to get the barrel to loosen?

I have found that by the time you get enough heat on a really tight barrel you may damage the receiver. That is why I relief cut them off. I once took several junk actions and played around with just what it took to twist or otherwise do noticeable damage. A lot of heat will mess one up. Usually you cant get it to move without a lot of heat. 47 years at this and I found heat to not be the answer, not for this anyways. Exhaust manifold bolts, rusty nuts sure, precision gun parts and expensive receivers....nope. Nazi Germany must have used gorillas with a 10 foot bar to put some Mauser 98's together...crazy.

 

[pre64win]

I took the barrel off a 1980 Rem 700. I plugged the chamber by tapping a fired case on it. I hung the action muzzle down and filled the chamber with Kroil for a few days and the barrel screwed off with just a firm push on the action wrench handle.

 

[cheek9075]

Cut a relief on the barrel. Save the action. Just my 2 cents.

 

[shortgrass]

You may or may not be able to remove the action with a port entry wrench BUT you must be sure the wrench does not bear on the rails of the action. These rails are very thin and I have seen a half dozen which have been cracked by an improperly seated or poorly fitting wrench. I had one wrench which was made to work on both left hand and right hand actions and it would bear on the rail. I could see the potential for a wreck so I removed the left hand end and made another wrench for LH actions. By the way, I use the port entry wrench for removing factory barrels and have had no issues doing so. WH

I agree with Will and Jackie, a properly fit port wrench works when properly applied. I've been using a port wrench on 700s since '92 without issued. A good barrel vise is just as important. I've been using the same one that was a "required" when I went to school ('91-'93). Uses bushings and has a 4 bolt top to bottom with 1/2" bolts. Solidly mounted, the only ones needing a relief cut are P14s, M1917s, and the Howa, the Howa only sometimes. Most all the other wrenches and vises I've looked at appear to be hobby stuff. I have made several rear entry wrenches for installing barrels on custom actions, but I'd not consider using one to remove a factory installed barrel from a factory action. By the way, no heat required or needed.......

 

[Lucky Shooter]

Where's Larry Scott ??

Would like to hear his take on action wrenches------with his vise or otherwise.

A. Weldy

 

[Just Say Moe]

Is it possible once the factory barrel is removed, you can use a rear or loading port wrench for the switch barrels since they aren't torqued as much?