Barrel removal and re-install

[RW]

Is it possible to remove a rem 700 barrel and then re-install it useing the same barrel and useing a recoil lug jig with out having to check headspace. shoudn't this be the same as a switch barrel gun? I now switch barrel guns usualy have the recoil lugs pinned but I would only be doing this once, possibly to have the barrel nitraded. Thanks RW

 

[Erik Cortina]

Is it possible to remove a rem 700 barrel and then re-install it useing the same barrel and useing a recoil lug jig with out having to check headspace. shoudn't this be the same as a switch barrel gun? I now switch barrel guns usualy have the recoil lugs pinned but I would only be doing this once, possibly to have the barrel nitraded. Thanks RW

Yes.

 

[dmickey]

Wouldn't it depend on whether the barrel was screwed in with the same torque?

 

[Erik Cortina]

Wouldn't it depend on whether the barrel was screwed in with the same torque?

No.

 

[TRECustom]

Just to be sure, I would put a small match mark on the bottom of the barrel and another one on the other side of the recoil lug on the bottom of the receiver. They may not be perfectly aligned, but will be close enough to verify that the barrel goes back to very near the original rotation. If the barrel torques up to 75 ft lbs or so (it's going to be impossible to know what the original make-up torque was) and the light punch marks are close to alignment, check the headspace. It should be good, but by checking, you know for certain that it is.

Oh yeah, I'd check headspace before pulling it apart so I'd have the baseline. I use a go-gage and .001" to .003" thick small brass shimstock squares to know exactly how much over go it is, if any.

Just a suggestion. Tom

 

[alf]

Is it possible to remove a rem 700 barrel and then re-install it using the same barrel and using a recoil lug jig with out having to check headspace?

Yes

 

[fdshuster]

Another "yes". I do it all the time, but I do use a Snap-On torque wrench at 65 ft. lbs. Will check it occassionally with a go gauge, but the numbers are always the same. Never have to change the adjustments on the Redding sizer dies since the as fired case headspace lengths are always the same.

 

[watercam]

Torque is a good place to start but the relationship of the barrel to the receiver is what counts. Mark the barrel and the RECEIVER. Make sure you use an anti-seize compound or good grease (sparingly) on the threads and reinstall so that the marks line up. Frankly, for the piece of mind, www.4-dproducts.com rents GO/N0-GO gauges for $8. Well worth it and they let you keep them for ten days at that price. That would also tell you if there would be enough room to lap the lugs as well if that has not been done (ie - if you are TIGHT on a GO gauge you could measure the distance from the receiver face to the bolt face and lap .003" or less and still have good headspace).
If that does not make sense, don't do it.
Have fun!

 

[DOGCAPPER]

I have a rifle with 5 barrels some PPC some 308 heads....No check required.....LT