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Barrel for a hunting rifle

I am looking to rebarrel a rem 700 deer rifle i have in 270 and i have never had a rifle re barreled before so i am not sure whoch way to go as far as a barrel. It is a sporter barrel 270 and as much as i would like it as accurate as possible i am not sure that paying for a top notch blank would be worth it. There are a few budget barrrls that should be better than a factory barrel all the way up to the match barrels. What do some of you guys think that have been down this road?
 
I've had the same thoughts, I I'd luck into a hart barrel for a 308 build I'm going to do this year that was half off from Kelbly. They have some on sale like that from time to time. Beyond that I was going to try x caliber barrels, they run about $100 less than Kriegers, Barts, etc. I also entertained using a criterion as a remage set up but by the time I bought a barrel nut and gauges I'd be in the price range of a Krieger so I never did that. Douglas and shilen might be options as well but I've never shot them so I can't say how week that would work
 
For a hunting rifle I would watch the classifieds on the shooting forums and find a "new take-off" factory Remington barrel. In my experience there is about a 70% chance it will headspace properly, at worse it would only require lengthening the chamber slightly with a finish reamer, or a slight set-back of the shoulder. Both of which can be done inexpensively by a competent gunsmith.

The downsides - if the replacement barrel has open sights they may not line up properly, however many later model 700's are not fitted with open sights so that is more than likely not an issue. The only other issue is that the markings may be askew.

drover
 
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I have seen a few guys at the range shooting rifles rebarred by Shaw. They have all shot descent (submoa). That is about the cheapest barrel job I know of, if you don't want to go the Remage route.
 
I just installed a McGowen that did not need to be rechambered or reshouldered to install on my rifle, saving me moola on gunsmith fees. I'm getting .350 MOA, but it fouls a bit like a factory barrel versus some of my other barrels like shilen, douglas, and krieger. For the money, ($270 installed), I don't think I could be any happier.

The finish on the barrel is not as nice as I would like, but for a hunting rifle, it is good enough. Other people are happy with E.R Shaw.

For just a little more money, you can get a criterion that will probably shoot a little better and foul a little less.

For a little less, buy a perfectly good factory take-off. If you're a hand loader you can make due with the headspace if there is an issue.
 
I have two Criterion barrels and I will never buy another kind. Phenomenally accurate in my hunting rifles. They are a heavy sporter contour I would say without looking up the actual number on the invoices.
 
You can find new take off factory bbls on Ebay for very little money. Numrich also has some cheap 700 bbls. If all you are doing is deer hunting it makes no $$$ sense to spend a much money on a new bbl. As a matter of fact, why do you think you need a new bbl ? Might just need a good cleaning.
 
A friend of mine bought an E.R. Shaw for a Savage and I was surprised at how well it shoots for a less than match barrel cost, $199 chambered prefit.
 
I am looking to rebarrel a rem 700 deer rifle i have in 270 and i have never had a rifle re barreled before so i am not sure whoch way to go as far as a barrel. It is a sporter barrel 270 and as much as i would like it as accurate as possible i am not sure that paying for a top notch blank would be worth it. There are a few budget barrrls that should be better than a factory barrel all the way up to the match barrels. What do some of you guys think that have been down this road?

The one thing that will definitely aid in accuracy by putting a custom barrel on a hunting rifle is going with a little heavier contour than a normal factory #2 or #3 sporter. I usually go with #5 or #6 and even Sendero contours on my hunting rifles. Lightweight sporter barrels have too much whip and can't dissipate heat as well.

The other benefit of a custom barrel is that the world is your oyster when it comes to deciding on a chambering. So long as you are an experienced handloader of course.

I do not hike while hunting with a round in the chamber, so I shoot groups with my hunting rifles equivalent to how many rounds the magazine will hold. Being that my 2 main hunting rifles are magnum calibers, they hold 3 rounds in the magazine and I judge their accuracy with 3 shot groups. Though i know from experience on playing around on paper that my rifles will hold excellent accuracy for 5 shots or more, it really makes no sense for me to shoot 5 shot groups with those rifles because that would be a very unlikely event in the field.

Answering your question regarding a more affordable barrel, it's really hard to beat a Shilen. Below are pictures of 3 shots at 100 yards with a new load I recently developed for my 6.5 Remington Magnum and a group at 300 yards with a load using a different powder. It is just a plain chrome moly barrel. I believe I paid somewhere in the ball park of $150 for the unturned blank when building the rifle. Cost another $40 to have it contoured for a total of $190. I have, or have had, Brux, Lilja, McGowan, X-Caliber, and Krieger barrels on other hunting rifles and yet in a hunting rifle platform, this cheap Shilen will easily match or best the accuracy of the more expensive barrels. I have 2 other Shilen barrels on varmint rifles that produce very tight groups as well.

The most impressive thing with this new load I developed using RL26 is that the first shot was from a completely clean cold bore. I normally foul my bore with 2 or 3 shots before testing loads, but I was curious to see what it would do. The second shot landed in the same hole, the third overlapped the other 2 shots. Extreme spread on the speed was only 23 fps from completely clean/cold bore to a slightly fouled and warmed barrel. Also notice there is absolutely zero vertical deviation in the group. Not bad for a low priced Shilen ;)

2017-08-14 19.39.29.jpg


A group fired laying prone with a bipod from a small dirt hill 300 yards from the target using RL17 powder. This powder gives good speeds, but is known to prematurely burn out barrels so this is why I am working with other powders and trying to get away from it. Again, very impressive on a hunting rifle for a low budget Shilen barrel :)

2017-08-14 19.40.08.jpg
 
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It would depend on where you hunt and what range . Don't over think it . Keep it simple , lost ammo on a hunt trip is a bummer if you can't buy it near camp . The old standards were 30/30 , 35 Rem , 270 , 30-06 , 243 , 308 . Times have changed , but common available cartridge choice is still good place to start .
You can never go wrong with a Shilen. No need for the special select.
 
You might check with Remington to see what they charge put a new barrel on.
To buy a custom barrel they start in the $200. range, a lot in the $300-$350 range.
Chamber jobs run $150-$350 range.

Hal
 
The one thing that will definitely aid in accuracy by putting a custom barrel on a hunting rifle is going with a little heavier contour than a normal factory #2 or #3 sporter. I usually go with #5 or #6 and even Sendero contours on my hunting rifles. Lightweight sporter barrels have too much whip and can't dissipate heat as well.

The other benefit of a custom barrel is that the world is your oyster when it comes to deciding on a chambering. So long as you are an experienced handloader of course.

I do not hike while hunting with a round in the chamber, so I shoot groups with my hunting rifles equivalent to how many rounds the magazine will hold. Being that my 2 main hunting rifles are magnum calibers, they hold 3 rounds in the magazine and I judge their accuracy with 3 shot groups. Though i know from experience on playing around on paper that my rifles will hold excellent accuracy for 5 shots or more, it really makes no sense for me to shoot 5 shot groups with those rifles because that would be a very unlikely event in the field.

Answering your question regarding a more affordable barrel, it's really hard to beat a Shilen. Below are pictures of 3 shots at 100 yards with a new load I recently developed for my 6.5 Remington Magnum and a group at 300 yards with a load using a different powder. It is just a plain chrome moly barrel. I believe I paid somewhere in the ball park of $150 for the unturned blank when building the rifle. Cost another $40 to have it contoured for a total of $190. I have, or have had, Brux, Lilja, McGowan, X-Caliber, and Krieger barrels on other hunting rifles and yet in a hunting rifle platform, this cheap Shilen will easily match or best the accuracy of the more expensive barrels. I have 2 other Shilen barrels on varmint rifles that produce very tight groups as well.

The most impressive thing with this new load I developed using RL26 is that the first shot was from a completely clean cold bore. I normally foul my bore with 2 or 3 shots before testing loads, but I was curious to see what it would do. The second shot landed in the same hole, the third overlapped the other 2 shots. Extreme spread on the speed was only 23 fps from completely clean/cold bore to a slightly fouled and warmed barrel. Also notice there is absolutely zero vertical deviation in the group. Not bad for a low priced Shilen ;)

View attachment 1017990


A group fired laying prone with a bipod from a small dirt hill 300 yards from the target using RL17 powder. This powder gives good speeds, but is known to prematurely burn out barrels so this is why I am working with other powders and trying to get away from it. Again, very impressive on a hunting rifle for a low budget Shilen barrel :)

View attachment 1017991

I do not disagree with anything you say here. I would add that sporter taper barrels can also be very accurate. I wouldn't want one on a prairie dog rifle but I use them on my deer rifles.
 
I do not disagree with anything you say here. I would add that sporter taper barrels can also be very accurate. I wouldn't want one on a prairie dog rifle but I use them on my deer rifles.

Agreed. I'm not saying they cannot be very accurate. Its just that in my personal experience, I've found they are harder to tune with handloading. My heavier barrels seem to be much more forgiving.

Of course if a rifle will hold 1 MOA of accuracy, that is plenty good enough for hunting purposes out to 600 yards or so.
 
Agreed. I'm not saying they cannot be very accurate. Its just that in my personal experience, I've found they are harder to tune with handloading. My heavier barrels seem to be much more forgiving.

Of course if a rifle will hold 1 MOA of accuracy, that is plenty good enough for hunting purposes out to 600 yards or so.

My hunting rifles will average under .5" at 100. It definitely took some load development to get them there. My 6.5L will stay under .3" with loads it likes and a calm day. Both of these rifles are custom builds and likely overkill for my hunting.
 
I just installed a McGowen that did not need to be rechambered or reshouldered to install on my rifle, saving me moola on gunsmith fees. I'm getting .350 MOA, but it fouls a bit like a factory barrel versus some of my other barrels like shilen, douglas, and krieger.

Interesting. Not at all my experience with respect to fouling. But I'm sure every maker has variability.

I've shot McGowan, Shilen, and Krieger. I can't say I can tell the difference other than all are capable of 1/3MOA or better in my hands, all have been wonderful with respect to cleaning, and all are far superior to any factory barrel I have had. I would be hard pressed to recommend one or the other based on performance and would go by price and wait time.

I wish Shilen did the Remage, I use them for my Savages with great results but have to go McGowan for Remage.
 
I'm wondering if it's the bullets? I usually shoot sierras but this gun has only seen noslers. Only about 100 rounds through it so plenty of time to improve. Like I said earlier today, I'm happy with it for sure.

Mcgowen will also do a Remington with a shoulder that doesn't need further head spacing.

My mcgowen is a number 2 contour and holds .35 moa or better, but heat is an issue (no matter for hunting)
 
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