I have done this and it can be done on a lathe that has a spindle tube with an inside diameter big enough so the barrel can be indicated by use of range rod and 2 spiders (1 inboard, 1 outboard) and headstock short enough so that the action is basically just spinning along for the ride and not interfering with anything.I need to get a barrel crowned. A gunsmith told me it could be done without removing the barrel. Is this correct and the best way to do it?
It can also be done by chucking the action in and indicating on the OD of the actionI need to get a barrel crowned. A gunsmith told me it could be done without removing the barrel. Is this correct and the best way to do it?
My BadI need to get a barrel crowned. A gunsmith told me it could be done without removing the barrel. Is this correct and the best way to do it?
Why do you need to get the barrel crowned? I think most of the answers so far about the best way to crown a barrel are coming from the fact of rifle building.I need to get a barrel crowned. A gunsmith told me it could be done without removing the barrel. Is this correct and the best way to do it?
That’d be great. I have my own methods I’ve used, it’s not that hard. With the current trend of people wanting short barrels for suppressor use it’s common that a barrel or barreled action won’t fit in the headstock so you have to figure how to do it in the steady. A combination of tight fitting action mandrel’s and bushings for the muzzle end get it done for a barreled action. If you’re threading the muzzle no bushing is needed. Howa Mini’s are getting popular so I made an action mandrel just for them so chopping and re-threading are pretty quick without removing the barrel. Suppressor alignment issues have not been a problem.I need to put a post up in the gunsmithing section about a quick and clean way to run a barrel/barreled action in a steady rest.
What about using a lathe with a spindle bore big enough for the receiver, chucking on the barrel shank (I could put an M14 receiver in a spindle bore), or, chucking on a receiver, then indicating the muzzle in with the biggest diameter gauge pin that will fit?It can also be done by chucking the action in and indicating on the OD of the action
(Using brass or copper shims to protect from the jaws)
Not saying this is the best way
Removing the barrel is of course best
Just saying it CAN be done this way
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In my opinion any angle error 3 feet away from the action will be very minimal... since the muzzle bore centerline itself will be inline with the chuck bore centerline
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As long as he gets the Bore at the muzzle end dialed in concentric, and not off center, is most important for even distribution of high velocity gases exiting behind the bullet
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Your Smith may also have a way to "Turn Between Centers" while still leaving your action attached to barrel
This would be ideal actually
Oh, well then,What about using a lathe with a spindle bore big enough for the receiver, chucking on the barrel shank (I could put an M14 receiver in a spindle bore), or, chucking on a receiver, then indicating the muzzle in with the biggest diameter gauge pin that will fit?
Danny
I bought a NIB R700 in 243 one time quite a while back. It was the most poorly shooting rifle I have ever owned. After expending well over 100 rounds of ammo, bedding with Marine Tex and pillars and swapping the scope out twice a buddy found a microscopic nick in the crown right on a land. He had one of the Sinclair hand tools mentioned above and it turned an 8" gun into a tack driver that I wore the barrel out on.I need to get a barrel crowned. A gunsmith told me it could be done without removing the barrel. Is this correct and the best way to do it?