Barrel Cleaning Tools & Supplies

[Phil3]

As a novice to precision shooting, I would like to know what best equipment and supplies to clean and maintain rifle barrels. One rifle will be a bolt action 6mmBR,Savage), and the other an AR15 in .223,Krieger barrel). I want to understand what tools are needed, brand or model suggestions, chemicals, etc. There are many choices and I'd like to form an intelligent shopping list.

Thanks.

- Phil

 

[Greg110]

Phil,
First let's figure out WHAT tools you need.You will need a coated one piece rod with a swivel handle. Everyone has their favorites. I have both Dewey and Boretech. I like the Boretech better, probably because I prefer the jags that are used with it. Next you need jags.
Patches. I like what Sinclair sells and DO NOT like patches made from tee shirt material.
I like the stab type much better than the wrap type used with the Dewey rods. Nexe you will need rod guides, one for each gun. look at Sinclair and Lewis.
You probably want something to catch patches too and there are patch catcher bottles made or, with a little ingenuity, you can make your own.
To brush or not, that is the question better left to another thread. If you brush, buy good ones.
Everybody has thoughts on solvent, too. Butch's works well as does Montana Supreme. and there is a now, eco friendly one on the market, but do not discount Ed's Red homemade.
That should get yoou started and also confused. Try this;go to some matches, see who's good and friendly and pick thier brains. Most all precision shooters like to chat.

 

[Phil3]

Thanks. A few questions. 'Stab' type vs 'wrap'. Not sure what that means. When cleaning the barrel, is there not the risk of bore or crown damage, once the rod end,with jag) clear the end of the barrel? Or does one not push the rod all the way through. Seems like you would have to with a brush as you can not really reverse direction with a brush inside the bore.

Naive questions I know, but just trying to do this right. Appreciate any clarifications.

- Phil

 

[Greg110]

Phil,
Stab type jag looks like something you could use in a muzzle loader, but with a short pointed pin in front. Wrap type has a series of knurled areas down it's length.
Yes, everything needs to come completely through the barrel and you are right about crown damage. That's one reason for the two schools of thought on brushing the bore. Let's just say that when retrieving the rod back through the crown you want to treat the job like you are with your girlfriend and not your wife. Bad joke, but you get the point.
Hope this helps some.

 

[Moderator]

Jags: The Tipton spear-point Nickle-plated jags are my favorite right now. Use a .22 sized jag for applying wet patches

Cleaning rods: Some guys like the polished stainless rods. I prefer the coated rods, but I've used both.

Rod Guide: Definitely get the best rod guide you can afford. Mike Lucas makes a good one that is custom-fitted to your action and caliber.

 

[CoverDog]

I agree the Tipton nickle-plated are very good. I also like the Boretech rods. They have great handles.

They are expensive and for about $5.00 I made a PVC carrier. A 2' pvc tube the lenght of the complete rod, an end cap with foam and a threaded cap. I place one rod in the tube handle down and then the other handle up. The handle of the rod just fits inside the threaded end and can't move side to side.

Mike Lucas uses a removable rod guide, which is also custom-fitted to the diameter of your rod, which takes the play out of the rod as you insert it.

 

[fdshuster]

Phil: Yes, yes, yes, to the 'Bore Tech' cleaning rods, stab jags, and a good bore guide, not the $6 one-size-fits-all plastic). I've dis-assembled several of my Bore Tech rod handles, and their roller bearing design is a work of art: guess that's why they spin up like an airplane propeller at take-off. I also like the smaller diameter handle that more easily passes over the high comb stocks. The stab jag is quick and efficient. Neil Jones bore guides have been my choice although I'm sure there are others of high quality. Prefer the Sinclair cleaning patches and bronze bore brushes. Currently using 'Butchs', but like anything else, a lot of good solvents out there. One of the best investments I've ever made, and never regretted was the purchase of a 'Hawkeye' borescope. With it I'm able to seperate 'fact from fiction' as it relates to cleaning methods, products, and results. Those who clean a barrel, hold it up to the light looking thru the bore and declare it to be 'clean' have no idea what they are talking about. Just some of my experience, but I'm still learning.

 

[TAB]

Anybody have any experience with the Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rods?

TB

 

[Dgd6mm]

I own two of them and they spin freely, work well. The only drawback is the handle is a little big and when your and passes the buttplate of some stocks your hand may bump the stock.

 

[k80skeet]

I like the Tipton jags and their carbon fiber cleaning rods, patches and brass brushes. I use the Montana Extreme bore solvent, Copper killer and Copper Cream. You can read about all these products at, montanaxtreme.com ) Their nylon brushes are the best I have found.

 

[Possum]

Sinclair has an AR-15 Rod Guide and Link Kit that works real good.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/product/5784/AR15-Cleaning-Products

 

[Phil3]

Thanks for all the replies. I have NO cleaning supplies, and hope this shopping list will permit thorough cleaning of the AR15 223 22' long Krieger barrel.

Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rod. .22 - .27 caliber. How long? 26' - 40' available.

JP Enterprises Bore Guide. See http://www.jprifles.com/1.5.1.2_maint_rg.php
I would use Lucas, but I called and he said a 3 week wait. The JP is backordered too, but less time, and may use the Sinclair unit. Can't find much in the way of reviews for it.

Tipton spear point jags kit.
http://www.6mmbr.com/catalog/item/1433308/900922.htm

Montana Xtreme 50 BMG copper solvent.

Tipton patches.

Butch's Boreshine

Anything else, or recommended changes?

A few questions, of which this first one is really dumb. First, from the Krieger web site.

'...A jag with a patch wrapped around it works well. Apply the cleaner and begin scrubbing in short, rather fast strokes of about two to four inches in length...'.

Dumb Question #1: How can one 'scrub' the barrel back and forth if the patch is just speared on the end of the jag. Won't just fall off with any rearward motion? Or must I use a brush to do this, or a different kind of jag?

Dumb Question #2: Protecting the crown is really critical and see it written to push the jag out the muzzle, and let the patch fall off. OK, but isn't the muzzle and rifling going to take a beating when the jag is pulled back through, or...? I used other methods on my 22 rimfire, so not sure how this works.

What is the best approach to cleaning the barrel with these solvents? As a new barrel, should it be cleaned with the 50BMG first, then the Boreshine? I know there are many methods, but want to be sure I don't do something I shouldn't.

- Phil

 

[CoverDog]

A 3 week wait for the Lucas bore guide is well worth it. Just make sure you have a cleaning rod so you can give him the dia. of the rod so he can custon make your rod guide insert to the rod diameter.

The jag set you have high lighted above is the brass set. I would get the nickle plated ultra jag set Midway #812-503 $24.99

 

[fdshuster]

Phil3: There is a wealth of information on this sites 'barrels' page regarding barrel cleaning methods, products, etc. Go to the home page, left side & scroll down to 'barrels'. Pay particular attention to 'bore brushing- the great debate' and 'barrel break-in & cleaning'. You will note there is some conflict in opinions proving everyone has their own favorite methods/products that work for them. Be aware there are a lot of cleaning products, particularly solvents, that promise miracle results, that are, in fact, no different from the snake oil that was sold from a covered wagon in the 1880s.

 

[Phil3]

I read the 'Barrels' page, and what I learned is there is little if any general consensus on what procedure is best. I think I wish to go minimalist at first, and not be overly aggressive, potentially harming the barrel.

One question. Some solvents,especially copper) seem to take some time to work. How is one supposed to break-in a barrel at the range, if I follow Krieger's recommendation to clean after each shot,until fouling is down), if it can take hours for the solvent to work? Am I to wait that long between each shot during break-in? Must be missing something here.

- Phil

 

[fdshuster]

Phil: Some, my gunsmith included, with over 40 yrs experience) recommends using Sweets during break-in to remove the trace of copper that may accumulate at initial firing of a new, match grade barrel, like the Krieger. 10 minutes is about all the soaking time that is recommended, and it is effective. I really don't believe there is any well known reputable solvent out there that will harm a stainless, or chrome moly) barrel if used properly. More damage will occur by not using a proper bore guide, cleaning rod, etc.

 

[Phil3]

I know these are really elementary questions, but do need your help.

How can one 'scrub' the barrel back and forth if the patch is just speared on the end of the jag? Won't it just fall off with any rearward motion within the barrel, or is it too tight to do this? Or fold back on itself in the bore? Or is it even advisable to go back and forth in the barrel with a patch?

Protecting the crown is really critical and see it written to push the jag out the muzzle, and let the patch fall off. OK, but isn't the muzzle and rifling going to take a beating when the jag is pulled back through, or...? I used other methods of cleaning on my 22 rimfire, so not sure how this jag thing works.

- Phil

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

A 3 week wait for the Lucas bore guide is well worth it. Just make sure you have a cleaning rod so you can give him the dia. of the rod so he can custon make your rod guide insert to the rod diameter.

I will 2nd this. I'm as cheap as they come, and I have even ordered my 2nd bore guide from mike. It's a little more than a generic one, it's just so much better it's worth the cost. Only draw back is, that they are so nice, that you end up buying one for each caliber/set up combo. They do not slip and slide like the generic '1 size fits all' one's you buy for $20.

 

[Phil3]

Lynn, thank you.

I have ordered the Lucas Boreguide, and asked it be constructed to suit a Tipton carbon fiber rod. Good point on rod length.

I am not in competition and can wait for solvents to work. I gather from what you say, that even with time, the solvents can not adequately remove debris in grooves and land corners when used in conjunction with any kind of jag. Hence the need for a brush.

My only concern with that is that my barrel maker,Krieger) stresses not exiting the barrel ever, but says to scrub back and forth. Can't do that with a brush. Guess this is down to personal preferences and what works for each individual.

Whose barrel brushes do you recommend? Do you use 50BMG to speed the copper removal process? I would expect other less potent solutions can do the job, just not as fast? Risks with using 50BMG?

Thank you.

- Phil

 

[Phil3]

A 3 week wait for the Lucas bore guide is well worth it. Just make sure you have a cleaning rod so you can give him the dia. of the rod so he can custon make your rod guide insert to the rod diameter.

I will 2nd this. I'm as cheap as they come, and I have even ordered my 2nd bore guide from mike. It's a little more than a generic one, it's just so much better it's worth the cost. Only draw back is, that they are so nice, that you end up buying one for each caliber/set up combo. They do not slip and slide like the generic '1 size fits all' one's you buy for $20.

I ordered it, requested sized for a Tipton cleaning rod. After $440 for a Krieger barrel, I won't be shortchanging anything on its care. The Lucas will be last thing I am waiting on before I shoot the weapon for the first time, but I will be patient. Mike Lucas said should be here around July 6.

- Phil