Barrel Cleaning Recommendation
- Thread starter NCVarhtr
- Start date
wipe out with accelerator works very good also if you havent done so replace your cleaning rod tip with the new ones that are not made out of bronze or copper i also only use nylon brushes every 75 to 100rds. with 10or 12 up& down strokes coated with isso remember to hit chamber end also to get any carbon out between case mouth& end of chamber regards shooter63
i take bore tech eliminator, nylon brushes and follow directions, take lots of patches they are hard to find in the dog town.
i shoot more than one gun and tryto clean after one has cooled down some, shooting 50-70 rounds max between cleaning, the powder you use has a lot to do with how often you need to clean, look for unexpected miss and clean to determine a point of no return
take a short rod fitted with a larger bursh and tip to use in the chamber as fowling will build up there, be sure to clean the bolt face as brass will build up there also.
Bob
i shoot more than one gun and tryto clean after one has cooled down some, shooting 50-70 rounds max between cleaning, the powder you use has a lot to do with how often you need to clean, look for unexpected miss and clean to determine a point of no return
take a short rod fitted with a larger bursh and tip to use in the chamber as fowling will build up there, be sure to clean the bolt face as brass will build up there also.
Bob
I was thinking of using a bore snake with Butch's Bore Shine throughout the day and doing a full cleaning back at the hotel. Is this effective?
I take my normal cleaning supplies. Tried the Bore Snakes but they just don't work very well getting copper and built up carbon out. The biggest item is the cleaning rod. Everything else - bore guides, solvent, patches and brushes don't take up much space. I also use a Benchmaster rest for a cradle to hold the gun, which doubles as a shooting rest if I want to use it.
NCV -
Howdy !
Yes...... I've used TM solution ( and pretty much all the other mainstream solvents ).
For those of us who don't need really need to use Sweet's, TM worked just fine.
TM says it's not petroleum based, but heck.... ammonia is not petroleum based.
* My most recent accuracy work has been w/ my Marlin M-336 XLR .35 Rem.
This rifle has a barrel w/ 12-groove " Ballrd-style rifling.
I wanted/want to clean the Marlin w/o having to use a brush ( shooting jacketed bullets ).
TM solution was not getting down into the deep Ballard grooves, so I went to use of a foaming bore cleaner.
I use GUNSLICK Foaming Bore Cleaner, and it's probably the first product I've encountered in my life that
worked as-advertised and w/o any compromises . It surely does get down into and clean out the bottom of the grooves ( and the rest of the barrel' bore; too ).
I clean the rifle from the breech, which is also the introduction point for the foam.
When/if time permits, after capping the muzzle' I' ll let the foam sit in the barrel for 15-20 min.
I've cleaned the barrel satisfactorily already, after just a 10min soak. That had been after taking up to 35 shots before cleaning.
I use only patches to push out the shootin' residuals, and have seen NO blue on my patches
( when using either the TM solution or the Gunslick foam ).
One thing I also do at the end of cleaning, is put a wet patch of Montana Extreme Bore Conditioner through the barrel. I take one fouler shot, before commencinig any serious shots for record; or before trying for a tight group.
I've got the Marlin to group 5-shot 5/8" @ 100, with reduced loads ( not hunting loads ).
In that regard, the barrel cleaing foam must be viewed as adequate ( my circumstance ).
With regards,
357Mag
Howdy !
Yes...... I've used TM solution ( and pretty much all the other mainstream solvents ).
For those of us who don't need really need to use Sweet's, TM worked just fine.
TM says it's not petroleum based, but heck.... ammonia is not petroleum based.
* My most recent accuracy work has been w/ my Marlin M-336 XLR .35 Rem.
This rifle has a barrel w/ 12-groove " Ballrd-style rifling.
I wanted/want to clean the Marlin w/o having to use a brush ( shooting jacketed bullets ).
TM solution was not getting down into the deep Ballard grooves, so I went to use of a foaming bore cleaner.
I use GUNSLICK Foaming Bore Cleaner, and it's probably the first product I've encountered in my life that
worked as-advertised and w/o any compromises . It surely does get down into and clean out the bottom of the grooves ( and the rest of the barrel' bore; too ).
I clean the rifle from the breech, which is also the introduction point for the foam.
When/if time permits, after capping the muzzle' I' ll let the foam sit in the barrel for 15-20 min.
I've cleaned the barrel satisfactorily already, after just a 10min soak. That had been after taking up to 35 shots before cleaning.
I use only patches to push out the shootin' residuals, and have seen NO blue on my patches
( when using either the TM solution or the Gunslick foam ).
One thing I also do at the end of cleaning, is put a wet patch of Montana Extreme Bore Conditioner through the barrel. I take one fouler shot, before commencinig any serious shots for record; or before trying for a tight group.
I've got the Marlin to group 5-shot 5/8" @ 100, with reduced loads ( not hunting loads ).
In that regard, the barrel cleaing foam must be viewed as adequate ( my circumstance ).
With regards,
357Mag
Bradley Walker
bobcat1506 said:
I have tested the top rated carbon and copper cleaners.
Bore tech Eliminator beat the best of the each and you only need one. I don't even use a brush any more. No need.
I usually shoot until I suspect accuracy is degrading, several hundred rounds. I use a Dewey rod and nylon brush and Hoppes. I scrub and re-wet brush and scub back and forth about 20 strokes. I then jag and patch from chamber to muzzle, remove the dirty patch, pull the rod back, reload a clean patch and run through to muzzle again then repeat the process until a patch makes it through clean.
I sometimes validate my CCB shot but over the years this has been a consistent way to clean without affecting the CCB POI and that is my priority. Not too squeeky clean but not too fouled either.
I sometimes validate my CCB shot but over the years this has been a consistent way to clean without affecting the CCB POI and that is my priority. Not too squeeky clean but not too fouled either.
NCVarhtr
Gold $$ Contributor
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions and the benefit of your experiences.....I have been doing some research on the newer synthetic products out there and while sifting thru the "reams" of information available, I ran across an article by Irv Benzion that was published in the January 2006 issue of Precision Shooting Magazine....I was impressed.....In that article, he mentioned a product/company by the name of Slip2000. I was fortunate enough to spend some time talking with the owner of that company yesterday and again, I was very impressed. If any of you are interested, I found the article on Boretech's website. On their home page, at the very bottom, right, there is heading called "Articles and Reviews" Click on that and the first article is by Irv Benzion. From there you can get the website and information for Slip2000.....
Thanks again for all your suggestions and helpful information.....George
Thanks again for all your suggestions and helpful information.....George
NCVarhtr,
I concur on the slip2000. I've used the stuff on choke tubes. The stuff is just awesome.
I've never used it on a rifle bore, but i'll have to buy a clean jar of the stuff to see how it works, if it's anything like the choke tubes, it will be great.
I wonder how it would work on a suppressor???
xdeano
I concur on the slip2000. I've used the stuff on choke tubes. The stuff is just awesome.
I've never used it on a rifle bore, but i'll have to buy a clean jar of the stuff to see how it works, if it's anything like the choke tubes, it will be great.
I wonder how it would work on a suppressor???
xdeano
Since the article I wrote has been mentioned let me give you an update. At the time Slip2000 was the best carbon remover available. Since then Bore Tech has introduced two new products which in my opinion are superior. C4 Carbon Remover and C2 Copper remover. I have observed that C4 does a better job at removing carbon than Slip and it is not water based. C4 will remove all the carbon found in a barrel easily up to the very bottom layer which can be said to be "vulcanized" in the sense that it is heat bonded to the steel. It takes a lot of effort to remove that, usually some type of abrasive, I use JBs. C2 works extremely well on copper, as good as ammonia and it is not ammonia based. No smell and is not injurious to your health like ammonia. The use of two products which are more concentrated (volume for volume) than a combination product like Bore Tech's Eliminator is more efficent. I still use Eliminator if in a hurry and want to combine carbon removal with copper removal. As stated in my article after testing, not one of the petrolum based products removed either carbon or copper and I tested every one I could find. On a personal note: I am continuing to search to find better and faster ways to clean guns, because: Cleaning guns is work -- Shooting guns is fun.
Irv Benzion
Irv Benzion
Made a typing error: New copper cleaner is C+2.
Sorry,
Irv Benzion
Sorry,
Irv Benzion
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