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Barrel channel inlet?

Hello all! I'm considering a build and for this build I want to use a 1.25" straight blank for the barrel, no contour. Finished weight of the rifle is not a consideration! I'm considering a Richards Microfit stock and they say they will cut the barrel channel to 1.25" diameter. My question is, will this barrel channel in the stock facilitate the 1.25" diameter barrel? Will the barrel channel need to be inlet more for the barrel? Thanks!

Mike
 
That will be a very tight fit, and you will definitely need to remove wood in that area if you plan on floating the barrel... I would use a 1 1/2 dowel rod single wrapped with some 220 grit sandpaper and have right at it...
 
Thanks for the reply Preacher! How about this idea? What if I went with the 1.25" inlet in the stock and went with a HV contour on the barrel? Would that save me some work?

Mike
 
You'll have a lot of slop. Preacher's idea is the way to go. Any of the "pre-fit" stocks such as Richards are going to need tweaking. They are close but not complete drop in.
 
I'm not so sure about the 1 1/2". If the barrel and channel are both 1.25", then you raise the barrel 1/8", there should be 1/8" clearance all over.
Its easy to remove wood - hard to put it back. And a dremel tool will speed things up. I agree to use a dowel rod & sandpaper for final fit - just not sure about going all the way to 1.5".
 
Trust me, I wouldn't start fitting the stock to the barreled action with out the barreled action being there. The 1 1/2" makes sense though. Thats .125" all the way around the barrel. I have more clearance than that with my HS Precision stock on my varmint barreled .243. That stock could take a bull barrel and still have clearance!

Mike
 
I use sanding drums with a Dremel tool. All sorts of sizes available and you just chuck one up ( after you installed the grade paper you wish) get it parallel to the stock "bore" and you can eat the wood right up.
 
Nomad -

Assuming the barrel channel inlet is equal to 1/2 the barrel and is perfectly inletted for a 1.25" diameter barrel, then raising the barrel 1/8" will give you .125" clearance on the bottom but only .012" at the top edge of the stock.
 
Mike,

Make yourself some simple inletting tools to do the job right.

In order to get a good bedding surface for your action and barrel, you will likely need to remove some wood. Just going at it with a Dremel can lead to mistakes.

The following is two tools made from chain saw files. They are bent using nothing more than a propane torch. Grind the profiles you see, one round and the other flat and then sharpen and "adjust" the angle of the bevel until they cut nice curls of wood when drawn over a piece of hardwood.

You will also need some inletting black so you can see where the action and barrel are touching so you can remove the wood. Without knowing where it is touching you will be lost. Lipstick will also work in a pinch.

Let me know if I can be of any more help. I have done this more times than I can count.

Jim
 

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CanusLatransSnpr said:
I'm considering a Richards Microfit stock and they say they will cut the barrel channel to 1.25" diameter. My question is, will this barrel channel in the stock facilitate the 1.25" diameter barrel? Will the barrel channel need to be inletted more for the barrel?
Will they not do more than an 1.250"?

I'd do a minimum of 1.35", and an 1.45" wouldn't hurt a thing if they go that far. It'll save yourself a bunch of dickin' around.

My 1K heavy gun has an 1.45" inlet, and I'm running an 1.25" straight.
 
Thanks for the tips pdhntr! Alf, I may have to ask them if they have the ability to inlet the barrel channel another .100-.200" bigger than what they state!

Mike
 
There are small sanding drums that can be attached to a drill bit extension and spun in a drill . They are available in various grits,work slow and carefully.
 
For simply removing wood from the barrel channel you can't go wrong with the dowel and sandpaper trick. Takes just minutes to remove the sides.
If you need to increase the depth it will take a few more minutes ;)
Have a lot of wood to remove? Do it just like a woodworker would. Start with a rough paper like 80/100 grit. Just be sure to stop before you've gotten to the point you want to be so you can smooth it up with the finer grit.
Its the easiest part of any stock modification

Dremels are great for rough inletting and removeing excess bedding but one mistake will have you cursing.
I can't imagine living without my dremel but for opening up a barrel channel a dowel is the correct tool. Its foolproof which helps me ;) :D
 
I appreciate all the input guys :)! I haven't acquired this stock just yet. I'm still working out some of the other details with the smith on the build. Keep the suggestions coming though!

Mike
 
I was in the same boat as you. Unturned Shilen blank, Richards Microfit stock, and a lesson learned by listening to someone that does it for a living. Stop messing around and buy the barrel channel scrapers through Midway rather than try to sand it out. It's quicker, end result is better and the previous advice about not being able to add wood once it's gone is golden. I would also suggest pillar's and bedding it, at least the first couple inches of the barrel. Pics of mine from first firing it to finish.

PS....maybe a 2 wheeler to haul it to the bench, did I say it was heavy???
P10101412.JPG

P10100333.JPG
 
Don't forget the added clearance the sandpaper will add to the total of a 1.500 dowel rod...
I like a lot of air around the barrel channel.....
 
CanusLatransSnpr said:
I appreciate all the input guys :) ! I haven't acquired this stock just yet. I'm still working out some of the other details with the smith on the build. Keep the suggestions coming though!

Mike


Does you smith have a mill? Easy fix if he does
 

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