Barrel Block Questions

[Suicycle]

Ok I figured a lot of BR shooters used blocks. Seems I cannot find any in any vendors or links to anyone I have ever heard of. Are they usually made by the smith? Help me out here. I have a 1 1/4 by 33 inch Kreiger on the way and figure it to be a little heavy for the stubby Remington short action I have.

Also are there any other methods to bedding that heavy of a barrel. I figure if I don't block it I could bed a few inches if the chamber area to support some of the weight.

Has anyone ever bedded a pad in front of the chamber area like a block would be, just no top to the block. It could be kind of like a really long pressure pad only closer to the action.

Thanks

 

[Suicycle]

Thanks. I found his site after I posted. Still looking for info in the Flexitab bedding that I have read about. What little I have found seems like a bedding block without a top on it.


The search continues.

 

[jb1000br]

Donovan--Bill doesnt actually "DO" the work, but helps with the right products and advice, and points the customer in the right direction.

Usually a given smith will have his own version of a block.

I am partial to the one that MARK KING makes,on the gunsmith page) It is one piece and has NO CHANCE of stressing the barrel like the 2-piece jobs can do.

also the barrel is held in the block with epoxy, so no need to worry about torque values and how they might affect the tune

JB

 

[Suicycle]

Thanks for the info JB. Looking into that route.

 

[MikeWilkerson]

I like to make my barrel blocks in one piece and epoxy it into place, one draw back to this method is when it comes time to change the barrel out. One other problem I had,when working at boatrights) was getting this setup to make weight for LG matches. I used the block to mount to the stocks I simply drilled and tapped them and bedded the block.

 

[Sighter]

Mike,

I am assuming you used a typical flat bottom block/sleeve and milled/inletted a matching recess in the stock area to fit. My questions is, did you then utilize pillars for the screws coming up through the stock to the block and epoxy them in as well?

Thanks,

Sighter

 

[MikeWilkerson]

Yes I pillar bed the barrel blocks also and bed the whole area around the block itself. I dont like to use the Tracker to Tracker II when using a barrel blocks set up because there isnt much material left in the bottom of the stock for the pillars. The Tooley MBR and the Tooley Tracker is a far better choice,in my opinion)for the barrel block set up. When making the barrel blocks I have tried both square and round stock and then milling flats on the round block, I tend to like the square stock better for the simple reason it has more of a recoil lugg in the rear of the block then what the round stock has to offer. I have even went to the extent of making stainless threaded bushing,epoxied into place) to fit into the bottom of the sleeve for drilling and tapping for stock mounting screws in fear that the aluminum might become stripped out,one little draw back to that method is if the epoxy is to break free and that will create awhole lot of problems, if the screw is a exact match to the tapped whole in the bottom of the sleeve I have found that the tapped aluminum will hold just fine. Hope that helps

 

[BountyHunter]

Lot of smiths make the blocks. Leonard Baity does a lot of Bill Shehanes work and parts.

I personally like the two piece. One piece are a pain in the butt to get the barrel out and cost more labor with the smith vs unscrewing 8 screws on the 2 piece.

Save yourself money and time, buy the 2 piece.

Bruce Baer has spent lot of time and money testing blocks and found that the 2 piece 9 inch model is the best.

He is listed under recommended gunsmiths on this site.

BH

 

[Sighter]

Mike,

Thanks so much for the reply. The idea of threading the pillars into the block is something I have always wanted to do. Thanks as well for the info on which stocks have room for this type inlet.

Do you typically use 2 screws or more than that on the sleeve set up? Also since you are able to use pillars do you torque similar to HS specs ie = 65 inch lbs?

Bo

 

[MikeWilkerson]

I generally use only two screws. I make my blocks at eight inches and space the screws two inches from each edge. On the square blocks I usually run the torque around 35 to 40 inch lbs in fear that anything higher might damage the bedding. Round blocks 40 to 45