Hello, all, I am in the process of building my first rifle. I got a heavy 1.25 barrel, my smith warned me I need to bed the barrel, so action does not have to support it. Anyway I just read about the barrel bedding block, and I am curious, what you guys think. It seems like a great plan, but can I buy one to install in my choate stock, or is it custom only or should I just bed the stock. I am no machinist but, if I can get the parts, I can do the rest, with a little guidance from you guys that can answer a few questions, thanks for any all input
Barrel bedding block
- Thread starter smokestick
- Start date
PHEW!!
I'm just finishing up my first semi-custom build and have a full 28" bull barrel on my Rem 700 long action. I'm glad to confirm that this shouldn't be a problem. When planning the build, I didn't even consider it being a problem, but after piecing all the components together I got thinking about action flex with the heavy weight of the barrel. I broke out in a cold sweat as I read smokestick's post!
I'm just finishing up my first semi-custom build and have a full 28" bull barrel on my Rem 700 long action. I'm glad to confirm that this shouldn't be a problem. When planning the build, I didn't even consider it being a problem, but after piecing all the components together I got thinking about action flex with the heavy weight of the barrel. I broke out in a cold sweat as I read smokestick's post!
Valid arguments support both positions.
Personally, I bed bull and heavy varmint contours for 1"-2" (depending on bbl length) at the straight cylinder of the shank. Reduces stress on the receiver.
No question that bulls and heavy varmint contours oscillate less violently than a sporter contour. This is all about harmonics and OCW, and while I'd never bed the chamber of a sporter contour I've never experienced diminished consistency doing it with a bull barrel.
Many smiths like yours prefer to fully float, others- myself included- will partially bed at the cylinder.
Personally, I bed bull and heavy varmint contours for 1"-2" (depending on bbl length) at the straight cylinder of the shank. Reduces stress on the receiver.
No question that bulls and heavy varmint contours oscillate less violently than a sporter contour. This is all about harmonics and OCW, and while I'd never bed the chamber of a sporter contour I've never experienced diminished consistency doing it with a bull barrel.
Many smiths like yours prefer to fully float, others- myself included- will partially bed at the cylinder.
NZ_Fclass
Silver $$ Contributor
There's no real issues with most modern rifles. I do plan a barrel block gun next year, using an Australian Omark action.
These were built with the bolt locking into the barrel - so ending up with a shorter tenon thread after screwing locking lugs into the tenon. This is easily achieved by cutting the rear of the barrel off and screwing back into the action with Loctite to locate it.
There are several actions with longer than normal tenon threads - notably the Barnard (all models) from here in NZ, and all 700 clones that have the recoil lug as part of the action.
These were built with the bolt locking into the barrel - so ending up with a shorter tenon thread after screwing locking lugs into the tenon. This is easily achieved by cutting the rear of the barrel off and screwing back into the action with Loctite to locate it.
There are several actions with longer than normal tenon threads - notably the Barnard (all models) from here in NZ, and all 700 clones that have the recoil lug as part of the action.
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