Aww nuts

[55fairlane]

Well barrel nuts that is.
I ended up doing some trading and got a range tool handguard , the barrel nut is incredibly heavy & being this going to be a dedicated rimfire I figured I would make a barrel nut out of aluminum.
Darn dog woke me up at 4am, by 430 I was ready to go, so machined this up this morning.
Monday I will drop the nut off at anodizing on my way to work.
What ya think?

 

[LVLAaron]

How ya gonna torque it?

 

[itchyTF]

With a pipe wrench, what else?!!!

 

[SKWERLZ]

With a pipe wrench, what else?!!!

Calibrated pipe wrench I hope!

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Calibrated pipe wrench I hope!

Tighter than hell plus a round and a half...torqued!

 

[rwj]

Strap wrench…

 

[55fairlane]

How ya gonna torque it?

There is a 5/16 hole in the body for a pin type spanner wrench to fit in....

 

[Bill K]

Looks great and should work just as well.

 

[hpshooter]

With a pipe wrench, what else?!!!

Its aluminum, good old cold chisel will grab it to tighten-use a farriers rasp to smooth it up after tightening.

 

[GenePoole]

Well barrel nuts that is.
I ended up doing some trading and got a range tool handguard , the barrel nut is incredibly heavy & being this going to be a dedicated rimfire I figured I would make a barrel nut out of aluminum.
Darn dog woke me up at 4am, by 430 I was ready to go, so machined this up this morning.
Monday I will drop the nut off at anodizing on my way to work.
What ya think?View attachment 1424814View attachment 1424815View attachment 1424816View attachment 1424817View attachment 1424818

Good job, but if you really want to up you game, anodize it yourself. I've saved thousands of dollars doing my own anodizing. It's not that hard.

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Its aluminum, good old cold chisel will grab it to tighten-use a farriers rasp to smooth it up after tightening.

oh...just weld it!

 

[itchyTF]

Good job, but if you really want to up you game, anodize it yourself. I've saved thousands of dollars doing my own anodizing. It's not that hard.

Any references on how it’s done?

 

[slobhunter2]

I thought the proper torque was tighten it till it strips, then back it off half turn

 

[GenePoole]

Any references on how it’s done?

You can find several on you-tube. Try google: https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+anodizing+guide The main thing is to have a good constant current power supply. The main chemicals (sulfuric acid and sodium hydroxide) are cheap and available at Lowes, etc. and the concentrations are not that critical, it just has to conduct enough electricity in solution.

Most guides will have you use battery grade acid. The drain opener stuff is a lot cheaper and much more concentrated. I use 30 mL of the Zep drain opener acid per 1 gallon of distilled water. Sodium hydroxide (lye) is just to remove any residual oxide and I've skipped that step before when I pull a piece straight out of the blast cabinet. Nickel acetate is supposed to help seal it. I've not noticed any difference in the parts with or without, but since I bought it (ebay), I still use it. Just a pinch (100 mg or so) in the sealing bath is all you need.

It does do a better job if you get purpose-made anodizing dye like from Caswell but RIT dye from the dept. store works rather well for non-black colors.

 

[Xerothermic]

Well barrel nuts that is.
I ended up doing some trading and got a range tool handguard , the barrel nut is incredibly heavy & being this going to be a dedicated rimfire I figured I would make a barrel nut out of aluminum.
Darn dog woke me up at 4am, by 430 I was ready to go, so machined this up this morning.
Monday I will drop the nut off at anodizing on my way to work.
What ya think?View attachment 1424814View attachment 1424815View attachment 1424816View attachment 1424817View attachment 1424818

I've always envied people that can make things out of metal and wood, for that matter. I found out early, on the farm, that my five brothers had a mechanical and/ or engineering leaning and that my hand fit a baling hook and shovel pretty well.

Nice work on your nut.

 

[urbanrifleman]

You can find several on you-tube. Try google: https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+anodizing+guide The main thing is to have a good constant current power supply. The main chemicals (sulfuric acid and sodium hydroxide) are cheap and available at Lowes, etc. and the concentrations are not that critical, it just has to conduct enough electricity in solution.

Most guides will have you use battery grade acid. The drain opener stuff is a lot cheaper and much more concentrated. I use 30 mL of the Zep drain opener acid per 1 gallon of distilled water. Sodium hydroxide (lye) is just to remove any residual oxide and I've skipped that step before when I pull a piece straight out of the blast cabinet. Nickel acetate is supposed to help seal it. I've not noticed any difference in the parts with or without, but since I bought it (ebay), I still use it. Just a pinch (100 mg or so) in the sealing bath is all you need.

It does do a better job if you get purpose-made anodizing dye like from Caswell but RIT dye from the dept. store works rather well for non-black colors.

That is badass.

 

[mike mccormick]

Well, that's just....nuts

 

[55fairlane]

I finally got the barrel nut back from anodizing....the nut is hardcoated but not dyed black

 

[joshb]

A Magic Marker will do a fine job!