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Autotrickler question

So I've been doing a bunch of research before buying an Autotrickler, but am curious what some real world results are, in terms of the repeatability and accuracy of the system. I've seen some videos where every throw is right on the target amount and others where it varies a good amount, relative to the accuracy promised. I would guess the type of powder used may come into play. I'm mainly going to be using Varget, VV 140, and Reloader 15. If you've got one of these systems, please pass along your experiences. Thanks

Adam
I use the N140 and RL15 pretty consistently.

With my setup, it throws consistently within .05 grains and 95% of the time it’s within -.025 / +.015 of the target number.

When I want kernel-perfect charges I go .02 under and manually trickle the last kernel in.

I suspect it could be better with my experimentation but I have not pursued it. No special power supply. A more solid floor and bench would certainly help in my case.

David
 
After buying all the "in" tricklers and powder dispensers - the most accurate (and fastest) tricklers are my thumb and index finger. And no - I don't stick my fingers in grease, oil, maple syrup or other contaminates beforehand. Ha!
 
I started with V2 and now have V3 Auto-throw and Auto Trickler on a Sartorius Entris 124-1. My scale reads to .001 grains, which is more sensitivity than needed.

I just finished loading up 70 rounds for LR BR. Once adjusted, I had about 5% two kernels light, 45% one kernel light, 45% exact, and 5% one kernel heavy.

I do get some drift that you wouldn't see on an A&D FXI-120, so I do retare occasionally. Any time it exceeds .010 from zero I retare. Usually it goes in the minus. Retare is easy, just hit then tare button right after placing the powder cup on the scale.
 
I do get some drift that you wouldn't see on an A&D FXI-120, so I do retare occasionally.
The FX-120i also has some drift, but it auto-zeros small changes; you can catch it if you watch closely. Larger changes that could be (and usually is) a stray kernel on the pan or in the cup puts it in a wait state allowing the user to evaluate the situation.
 
The FX-120i also has some drift, but it auto-zeros small changes; you can catch it if you watch closely. Larger changes that could be (and usually is) a stray kernel on the pan or in the cup puts it in a wait state allowing the user to evaluate the situation.

I think I like having to tell it when to retare. The drift I see with the Sartorius is around .010 grains, and a kernel of Varget weighs .018 - .022 grains, so even if I didn't retare I would be within a kernel. However, because I CAN see the drift I fuss with it. Even with the 6 BRA in an LR BR rifle, I really doubt a couple kernels makes any difference.

So get the A&D instead of the Sartorius and don't waste time obsessing over needless things like I do. Like I HAVE to do because I can see it......
 

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