ATTN: CLR users...
- Thread starter ridgeway
- Start date
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
But i bet that end of the barrel is clean!
MikeMcCasland
Team Texas F-T/R
That looks like a visual reference for what happens when you set a barrel stub in a tub of CLR for days.
CLR is not hurting your bore if you use it the way you would any normal bore cleaner.
CLR is not hurting your bore if you use it the way you would any normal bore cleaner.
Not exactly sure. I did let it sit for a day. That's enough for me to see, lol
No doubting you, but guys usually soak and let sit. And it's the excess that sits around the bore guide inside the chamber.
MikeMcCasland
Team Texas F-T/R
MikeMcCasland
Team Texas F-T/R
Not trying to start a fight here, so I'll just post this last comment and leave.
I suspect it has something to do with the composition of the steel used (in both the stub, as well as the brake). CLR does seem to act strangely with different metals. It'll destroy the hosel/threaded portion of a Dewey cleaning rod if left on there without being neutralized (i.e. fuse your rod to your jag).
I suspect the odd reactions to different materials is why Erik is saying he rubs alcohol through his bore to neutralize afterwards (I've read about other guys doing that on here too).
I don't know the metal composition of the stub the OP is using, but I've used CLR pretty extensively on 416 stainless barrels (Kriegers and Barts specifically) , and I've never encountered etching like that. I haven't left a barrel submerged for days though...only brakes and suppressor parts when I first started using it.
On a related note, soaking for extended periods doesn't seem to really help it clean any better. Using a heavily caked suppressor mount as an example, you would see the bubbles form around carbon for about 10 minutes, but anymore time and it would slowly dissipate. Only after wiping away the melted carbon and exposing new hardened carbon would you start to see CLR bubble/work again. (As a side note, my brake was significantly more 'caked' with hard carbon that Erik's brake. The brakes that are used as suppressor mounts get quite a bit of build-up that doesn't really come off unless you use something like CLR).
In my experience, I don't really use it any differently than I would say C4 or Eliminator. Patch in, brush a few times, patch out. Repeat as necessary, and neutralize with something before going after copper and/or finishing with lockeeze.
I suspect it has something to do with the composition of the steel used (in both the stub, as well as the brake). CLR does seem to act strangely with different metals. It'll destroy the hosel/threaded portion of a Dewey cleaning rod if left on there without being neutralized (i.e. fuse your rod to your jag).
I suspect the odd reactions to different materials is why Erik is saying he rubs alcohol through his bore to neutralize afterwards (I've read about other guys doing that on here too).
I don't know the metal composition of the stub the OP is using, but I've used CLR pretty extensively on 416 stainless barrels (Kriegers and Barts specifically) , and I've never encountered etching like that. I haven't left a barrel submerged for days though...only brakes and suppressor parts when I first started using it.
On a related note, soaking for extended periods doesn't seem to really help it clean any better. Using a heavily caked suppressor mount as an example, you would see the bubbles form around carbon for about 10 minutes, but anymore time and it would slowly dissipate. Only after wiping away the melted carbon and exposing new hardened carbon would you start to see CLR bubble/work again. (As a side note, my brake was significantly more 'caked' with hard carbon that Erik's brake. The brakes that are used as suppressor mounts get quite a bit of build-up that doesn't really come off unless you use something like CLR).
In my experience, I don't really use it any differently than I would say C4 or Eliminator. Patch in, brush a few times, patch out. Repeat as necessary, and neutralize with something before going after copper and/or finishing with lockeeze.
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The barrel stub is from a stainless sporter weight barrel from a top cut rifled MFG co.
My post is a simple FYI of my findings and CLR. IMO, clearly be careful with using it as a bore cleaner all I have to say.
Also, material composition can affect how CLR affects it.
On a side note, brakes are probably made out of 304 possibly or another type of stainless.
My post is a simple FYI of my findings and CLR. IMO, clearly be careful with using it as a bore cleaner all I have to say.
Also, material composition can affect how CLR affects it.
On a side note, brakes are probably made out of 304 possibly or another type of stainless.
Jay Christopherson
Not An Admin
works great in every SS match barrel I
have tried it in. don't let it leak into your trigger. plan to keep using it.
have tried it in. don't let it leak into your trigger. plan to keep using it.
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
Yep, I stopped using it after soaking a bolt in it for a few minutes...
I don't have an opinion on CLR one way or another. However, I am firmly in the camp of "If it 'taint broke don't fix it".. So far BoreTech Eliminator gets all of the "loose" carbon out and a lot of the "hard" carbon. Then from time to time I use JB Bore Paste to scrub out the hard carbon with no ill effects on the bore. So if that works great, why would I want to "fix" that?
I looked at the website and the first product to come up was CLR brilliant bath, one of the listed uses was stainless steel exteriors what ever that is. So the maker does believe that the product is safe for SS. However I have a problem using a product that was intended to clean toilet bowls on a match rifle barrel that I intend to provide top accuracy. I will use what the barrel maker recommends, and only that. Not toilet bowl cleaner.
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
What people keep calling "carbon" I just call SOOT... and it is relatively soft. Lots of things soften SOOT. I would not use acid. Which is what that is, I am pretty sure.
You could do the same thing with Chemtool or ATF and acetone that Cortina did. Not to mention about a million other penetrating oils.
You could do the same thing with Chemtool or ATF and acetone that Cortina did. Not to mention about a million other penetrating oils.
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d6mmwea
Gold $$ Contributor
For what it's worth. I realize this has nothing to do with stainless but just wanted to share an experiment I did. I use CLR and it works for me so after doing a Aztec analyze on a 6.5X47 case I figured why not do the test. I put the case in a jar of CLR and left it for 5 days. It did tarnish it but I saw no physical harm to the brass with the naked eye. I took a little cleaner and the tarnish wiped off. I don't know all that physical properties stuff but I figure that brass is a lot softer than steel. Again apples to oranges, for what it's worth.
Good Shoot'n, Dan P
Good Shoot'n, Dan P
Seems like etched barrels are shooting pretty good for Eric.
I just used pure Simple Green in an ultra sonic to clean suppressor baffles and with no scrubbing they were about 96% clean after three 6 minute cycles. The last little bit I used an orange wood stick to help along. Wonder what it would do to stainless after a full days soak.
I really do like the C4 carbon cleaner, but the price definitely keeps me on the look out for something else.
I just used pure Simple Green in an ultra sonic to clean suppressor baffles and with no scrubbing they were about 96% clean after three 6 minute cycles. The last little bit I used an orange wood stick to help along. Wonder what it would do to stainless after a full days soak.
I really do like the C4 carbon cleaner, but the price definitely keeps me on the look out for something else.
A couple years ago when a similar thread regarding CLR came up, I bought and tried some with little success on a SS barrel.
But I also had a gallon of ZEP Wood Deck and Fence Pressure Wash that contained Oxalic Acid that was meant to be reduced with water for use in pressuring washing wood. I had a shot out Savage SS barrel with the original fluted and bead blasted finish so I immersed it in the full strength acid. Lot's of fizzing and after awhile it started to turn a darker color so I removed it and washed it thoroughly.
I don't recommend it for barrel cleaning, at least not on an installed barrel, but it did a really good job of thoroughly cleaning out any carbon and copper. I cut the barrel into several sections and inspected it carefully. I could see no significan etching of the lands and grooves, and other than the darker color, it was about as clean as possible with absolutely no fouling or residue of any kind. A quick dip in a SS brightener would probably have restored its original brilliance.
I did not repeat the test with a diluted batch, as I didn't have another "tomato stake" barrel to use. From previous work experience I know that a mixture of Hydrochloric and Hydrofluoric acids is the standard for cleaning Stainless steel. Though definitely NOT something you'd want around a wooden stock, or 4130 steel and is flat out dangerous to work with, particularly the Hydrofluoric acid component which can be deadly.
For copper cleaning I now use a foaming bore cleaner. Getting the foam in the bore without also getting it everywhere else has been a problem, but I solved it by taking a cartridge brass from the gun being cleaned and drilling out the flash hole to tightly fit the vinyl tube on the can of cleaner. I fit the brass onto the tube, slide it in the chamber and give it a shot of foam. Works perfectly, especially with the gun oriented muzzle down, and I rinse the brass after use to prevent etching.
But I also had a gallon of ZEP Wood Deck and Fence Pressure Wash that contained Oxalic Acid that was meant to be reduced with water for use in pressuring washing wood. I had a shot out Savage SS barrel with the original fluted and bead blasted finish so I immersed it in the full strength acid. Lot's of fizzing and after awhile it started to turn a darker color so I removed it and washed it thoroughly.
I don't recommend it for barrel cleaning, at least not on an installed barrel, but it did a really good job of thoroughly cleaning out any carbon and copper. I cut the barrel into several sections and inspected it carefully. I could see no significan etching of the lands and grooves, and other than the darker color, it was about as clean as possible with absolutely no fouling or residue of any kind. A quick dip in a SS brightener would probably have restored its original brilliance.
I did not repeat the test with a diluted batch, as I didn't have another "tomato stake" barrel to use. From previous work experience I know that a mixture of Hydrochloric and Hydrofluoric acids is the standard for cleaning Stainless steel. Though definitely NOT something you'd want around a wooden stock, or 4130 steel and is flat out dangerous to work with, particularly the Hydrofluoric acid component which can be deadly.
For copper cleaning I now use a foaming bore cleaner. Getting the foam in the bore without also getting it everywhere else has been a problem, but I solved it by taking a cartridge brass from the gun being cleaned and drilling out the flash hole to tightly fit the vinyl tube on the can of cleaner. I fit the brass onto the tube, slide it in the chamber and give it a shot of foam. Works perfectly, especially with the gun oriented muzzle down, and I rinse the brass after use to prevent etching.
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