I'm curious, still running my factory 6br barrel but at some point I may get the itch for a nicer barrel. I've seen the full circle wrenches but between my scope and rail hanging over the barrel nut I'll have to remove the scope & rail to get the wrench on there. Are there any "C" shaped savage wrenches that allow removing the nut without the hassle of scope removal?
Are there any "C" shaped Savage barrel nut wrenches?
- Thread starter zanemoseley
- Start date
Take the scope off. Unless its a very thick wrench you are going to spread a C shaped one. In fact buying a C wrench is pretty much going to guarantee you'll find a gorilla on steroids installed nut. I personally don't like the overhang style rails, never needed to move the scope that far forward, but can see maybe a prone shooter needing it.
And I milled a slot in my action wrench so the rail can stay on the action.
And I milled a slot in my action wrench so the rail can stay on the action.
I don't really understand how an action wrench works. With a Savage style action with a nut can I totally replace the barrel without removing the scope?
no doubt
i always grind that screw down where it does not get into the barrel threads when i install a new barrel. might be the reason so many have a hard time removing a factory barrel
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Good way to ruin a scope too. They invariably break loose and turn your scope into something with a lot of force. Cant be good on a precision scope
yep, my barrel nut spins like crazy when i whack it loose with a deadblow hammer. i gotta learn to lay a 2x4 alongside the barrel vise. hahaha. ask my knuckles how i know.
one of the things to check for if you are having accuracy issues, btw.
carlsbad
Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep.
Yes, this is one of the reasons I don't like the savage/remage design. Just last week a guy brought a savage action over to have the barrel shortened. Turned out he had used permanent loctite on the rail screws and rounded one off one screw and broke the tip of the wrench off on the other. So I had to remove the scope and machine out the bad screws before I could remove the rail and take the barrel off. Added a lot of time to the job. Fortunately I had replacement screws in stock.
There is no reason that a c shaped wrench could not be made and used responsibly. It should be at least 1/4" wide, preferably 1/2" at the engagement points. Instead, savage wrenches are made much thinner and 360 degree engaging which is much cheaper. A good action wrench for a remington costs $75. For this price a good action wrench for savage could be made, but most would buy the cheaper one so I've never seen one marketed. A wider wrench would be much easier on the nut cosmetically too.
Always make sure your screws do not contact the barrel threads. Problems too numerous to list.
-Jerry
There is no reason that a c shaped wrench could not be made and used responsibly. It should be at least 1/4" wide, preferably 1/2" at the engagement points. Instead, savage wrenches are made much thinner and 360 degree engaging which is much cheaper. A good action wrench for a remington costs $75. For this price a good action wrench for savage could be made, but most would buy the cheaper one so I've never seen one marketed. A wider wrench would be much easier on the nut cosmetically too.
Always make sure your screws do not contact the barrel threads. Problems too numerous to list.
-Jerry
None that I know of. However since this is the FIRST removal of a factory barrel take the pain and remove the scope and rail (if needed...the note above on the muzzle end screw is MOST important). I have removed about 4 factory Savage barrels ( I buy Savage ACTIONS now) and never ran in to a tough one, however they may be out there. Also once you install your new barrel there is no need to tighten the nut to any extreme at all. It is hard to find (I have not yet) any published torque amount but I tighten the nut to 40 ft.lbs. This is after using anti seize so my 40 with lube is much different than a dry 40. In fact there are torque reduction tables published that give you the % of reduction with different types of material on the threads (it's an impressive reduction). Mine at 40 have never come loose or moved. Lacking published data on the torque I will put a dot of paint on the nut and barrel so that a quick visual check will show me if anything moved. (Never has, yet)
Once your new barrel is on and you wish to switch it the removal is a known factor and you can use a strap which works fine.
I am working on a nut that will take a common spanner wrench with the two holes which would allow nut removal with out taking anything else off.
Naturally you need more than two holes on the nut or once the headspace is set they could wind up with the scope interfering access to them.
The above is merely what I do and not a statement concerning the correct or the different way others may do it. Just what works for me on my rifles.
p.s. If a picatinny rail were to extend over the nut I'd trim it as I've never needed a scope ring to extend that far.
AND that front rail screw should be short enough not to touch the barrel threads...if it does (measure) trim it. (the first 3 threads do 75% of the work in a bolt.
Toolbreaker
Gold $$ Contributor
This one is 3/8". The wrench and I both can get a better purchase with it being thicker overall. I'd still remove the scope when taking off a barrel, though.
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carlsbad
Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep.
Toolbreaker,
Assuming that is steel, it could be machined into a C or U to support tightening a barrel without taking the scope off. Nice wrench.
I change barrels, take them off to change muzzle threads, etc fairly often and I don't usually take the scope off (Remington). The good thing about the shoulder design is that every time I take a barrel of and put it back on the headspace is the same. With a savage, you have to set it again every time you take it off. There is .004" between the go and no go gauges and this can impact your shoulder bump setup on your reloading bench. Maybe experienced savage gurus can get it back the same place every time.
--Jerry
Assuming that is steel, it could be machined into a C or U to support tightening a barrel without taking the scope off. Nice wrench.
I change barrels, take them off to change muzzle threads, etc fairly often and I don't usually take the scope off (Remington). The good thing about the shoulder design is that every time I take a barrel of and put it back on the headspace is the same. With a savage, you have to set it again every time you take it off. There is .004" between the go and no go gauges and this can impact your shoulder bump setup on your reloading bench. Maybe experienced savage gurus can get it back the same place every time.
--Jerry
Yes, but the beauty of a Savage is you can swap barrels around to your heart (and bolt face) content. Nothing to machine. 3 different barrels on 3 different actions, etc. Setting (or re-setting) the headspace is not difficult. (the paint mark I mentioned earlier does wind up in about the same place BUT these are not register marks which some Savage owners do use).
In your example each of your barrels is ONLY headspaced for that ONE action.
(If I read your reply correctly)
Of course you can also eliminate the barrel nut by re-threading and cutting a new chamber. If you are so inclined, this can be done the next time you re-barrel.
If you wish to keep the barrel nut, you can make a stouter barrel nut wrench by tig welding two Savage wrenches together. You may even be able to cut off part of the wrench to make it fit under your scope.
So many solutions if you stop and think about it.
If you wish to keep the barrel nut, you can make a stouter barrel nut wrench by tig welding two Savage wrenches together. You may even be able to cut off part of the wrench to make it fit under your scope.
So many solutions if you stop and think about it.
i am positive i saw 80 somewhere over on the savage shooters site 6 months back. i have marked my torque wrench at 50, BUT it is a 16" torque wrench on a 8" nut wrench, so the 50 i marked is actually 75 at the nut.
my son, who worked the dpms oracle line at remington saw the 50 mark and said 40 was good, but he didn't realize i was in effect using an extension. i don't know what threads an AR barrel has.
i have backed way off trying to achieve 50 at the wrench, since i use anti-sieze.
carlsbad
Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep.
So you're postulating the Savington--Remington shoulder on a savage action.
I thought this morning about the possibility of putting 2 or 3 cheap savage wrenches together. I'd probably solder or braze rather than tig weld to avoid weld warpage. Welding only on the outside will tend to bend the inside apart.
--Jerry
LA50SHOOTER
Sworn To Protect The Constitution.
+1 (For Sure)
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
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