Ar 10 accuracy - What can I expect?
- Thread starter oldhoward
- Start date
Well this what I got from an SR25 I rebarreled. The barrel was a Brux 28" with a 1 in 11.25 twist. Norm Brux chambered it. This target was the first time I tried it. I put one shot in the poster board to provide an aiming point. I had not sighted it in yet. As you can see, the next four shots made one big hole. So I expect any AR10 should be able to do the same.
And yes, this does have a free float tube, a nightforce scope, and a Gieselle trigger.
And yes, this does have a free float tube, a nightforce scope, and a Gieselle trigger.
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Eric,my ar-10 makes a very similar pattern of hits like yours.They can really shoot if you get a good barrel.In my case it was a stock armalite barrel that still shoots like this today.
You can hang any barrel you want on it, put the best trigger money can buy in it, shoot it from the best bench rest setup and it won't make a difference. There are two many factors.
It all depends on who builds it. Without a fitted upper to lower you will never get any consistency. Some factory rifle are tight fitted and it shows. A loose fit upper to lower is like having a loose barrel on a bolt gun.
It all depends on who builds it. Without a fitted upper to lower you will never get any consistency. Some factory rifle are tight fitted and it shows. A loose fit upper to lower is like having a loose barrel on a bolt gun.
Drop Port said:
Sorry for the dumb question but...
Since the sights are on the upper, what difference does it make how well the upper and lower fit together?
Seems to me you could have them connected with twine, chain or linkage fabricated from an Erector set and it would make no difference.
A friend bought a DPMS, stainless 26" floated AR-10. We switched out the trigger before he fired the first shot. With surplus ammo he was all over the place but worked for barrel break in. I gave him 10 rounds of LC match brass, 41.5g IMR4064, Sierra 168g match bullet I loaded myself. He shot 2-5 shot groups I didn't want to believe. Both measured under 1/2 inch net (side to side - .308). I was impressed.
searcher
Gold $$ Contributor
When working to get the most out of an A/R target rifle, getting a solid fit between the upper and lower receiver WILL help to remove random vibrations that can harm one's accuracy. Some people use oversize pins and work them to get a tight lock-up, some use a little $5.00 hard rubber part that is merely inserted behind the trigger that creates tension between the upper and lower when closing the halves and, to an extreme, some use an epoxy bed between the two halves. All of these methods will help - but we are talking about trying to get that last bit of accuracy-robbing potential problem out of play. Bad receiver fit, in my past experience, is WAY down the list of why A/R's won't shoot to the expectations of most owners and seldom the major cause of big accuracy problems. The little $5.00 plastic bushing (Brownell's sell them) will greatly help most loose actions to perform quite well if that was a problem. Put one in and, if accuracy did not change, you can just about be assured that is not the major problem.
people said:
I apologize, if I took this the wrong way, thought it was a dig. "Seems to me you could have them connected with twine, chain or linkage fabricated from an Erector set and it would make no difference."
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As answered the little plastic thing is a receiver wedge and will often greatly tighten groups on a loose fit receiver and eliminate two group or flyers. LMT uses bumps on the lower and they get filed until the upper will close for contact points. Fitted pins will also help.
I've used a receiver wedge to get one from 1.5 moa to right at 1 moa they can help especially if there is a lot of wobble in the upper lower fit.
To answer your question as to why? if you were to clamp your lower in a fixture, look through your scope and wobble the upper you would get an idea of how much you are losing through fit. One reason Tar Hunt silver solders 870 slug gun barrels they stay put and it works.
So the easy answer is not easy, I 've seen some tear up bullets on feeding, some that triggers solved a lot and others that removing the sloppy fit took care of it, or all the above and none of the above. One of the top manufacturers put out rifles with a bad run of barrels that really threw a wrench in the works. I had a chance to test fire a few as they cam back.
Again sorry for the first response, my fault for taking it the wrong way.
16" LMT chrome lined. One of the better ones out of the box, they also do a stainless Rock barrel, but this one shot as good.
600 yard target and steel
This is one I took out for a friend to ammo test, it liked 168 FGMM the best.
Drop Port said:
But if you moved your upper in relation to your lower, wouldn't your sight picture also change?
And wouldn't firing when your sights weren't in the right place pretty much guarantee a miss?
If the sights are in the right place when the gun goes off, the sights are in the right place when the gun goes off, regardless of whether the upper and lower are joined with chewing gum or the the shooter is mid-somersault on a trampoline.
Drop Port said:
Sounds like a good way to fark things up when the BC comes back under recoil and gas and tries to go into the buffer tube, causing the rifle to open on the front pivot pin, taking the buffer tube and upper receiver out of alignment.
That's called sarcasmSyncrowave said:Drop Port said:
Sounds like a good way to fark things up when the BC comes back under recoil and gas and tries to go into the buffer tube, causing the rifle to open on the front pivot pin, taking the buffer tube and upper receiver out of alignment.
, all apologies taken back. Good luck with your future AR-10 build.
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