Anyone seen MOLY?

[Nude nut]

View attachment 1184498
I coat mine in a cheap rock Tumblr from Harbor freight using the wet method very simple not messy at all once you have your steps down so cheap and I am happy with the results I shoot these bullets through a 6.5 x 2 84 Norma the first barrel lasted about 1100 rounds now that I’ve use Molly throughout the life of my second barrel I am at 1600 rounds and doing fine

I must give wet method a try one day,
I will say this the dry method is messy but my gunsmiths comments on my barrels is enough for me to keep using moly.
I also like the smooth seating of projectiles I also use it in the necks when sizing with my expander mandrels.

Cheers Trev.

 

[338 dude]

I must give wet method a try one day,
I will say this the dry method is messy but my gunsmiths comments on my barrels is enough for me to keep using moly.
I also like the smooth seating of projectiles I also use it in the necks when sizing with my expander mandrels.

Cheers Trev.

Give the wet method a try it works great once you get used to your steps it is definitely not very messy at all it definitely reduces friction and your barrel life will increase also I believe it is a barrier between the bullet and the case neck which reduces bullet weld I’m sure there are other benefits if you just think about it

 

[Hoot]

I'm surprised no one mentioned HBN. I have Moly, WS2 and HBN powders and prefer the HBN. Not just because it doesn't get black everywhere. HBN is not hygroscopic. I just cleaned my 6XC bore last night. Between the HBN coating on the 105 Berger Hybrids and the latest iteration of Reloader 16, not a spec of copper in the bore. When I run nude copper bullets, I have to scrub out the copper fouling.

Hoot

 

[Ccrider]

I'm surprised no one mentioned HBN. I have Moly, WS2 and HBN powders and prefer the HBN. Not just because it doesn't get black everywhere. HBN is not hygroscopic. I just cleaned my 6XC bore last night. Between the HBN coating on the 105 Berger Hybrids and the latest iteration of Reloader 16, not a spec of copper in the bore. When I run nude copper bullets, I have to scrub out the copper fouling.

Hoot

What is your process for applying HBN to bullets?

 

[L W P]

I've been using moly for years, but for an entirely different reason that has been mentioned so far. I coat the bullets to give me very close to identical seating pressure as measured with a 21st Cen. psi gage. Whatever benefits occur in the bbl. is secondary to me. With that said, I'm doing some testing with HBN to possibly replace moly.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

I tested Moly against HBN and found the Moly to give me a better, more smoother, seating consistency than the HBN. And after seating both types of coatings I pulled them to visually compare and the HBN showed more scratches on the bullet surface seated in the brass necks that the Moly coated by a considerable amount.

 

[338 dude]

I tested Moly against HBN and found the Moly to give me a better, more smoother, seating consistency than the HBN. And after seating both types of coatings I pulled them to visually compare and the HBN showed more scratches on the bullet surface seated in the brass necks that the Moly coated by a considerable amount.

And that’s what’s going down your barrel as well

 

[Hoot]

I tested Moly against HBN and found the Moly to give me a better, more smoother, seating consistency than the HBN. And after seating both types of coatings I pulled them to visually compare and the HBN showed more scratches on the bullet surface seated in the brass necks that the Moly coated by a considerable amount.

This is good information! I've struggled this past winter, trying to find a repeatable prep process that yields consistent neck tension with these Peterson brass for my 6XC. I recently had a bad outing doing a ladder test with a new bottle of H4350 (way hotter than previous bottle) and wound up pulling down some 110 SMK loads that I had rotary tumbled HBN into for 12 hours. Yes, 12 hours. Its cool down in my Air Conditioned house basement. Takes a long time to feel like the plating was successful. Anyway, when I pulled the bullets, they were scraped clean down to the bare metal. This was new, no-turn, Peterson brass with a .242 mandrel applied to them and they were still way too tight going in. I wasn't shocked to see them scratched coming out, ruined by my standards. I've had better results turning those Peterson .015 neck walls down to either .0135 or .014 before applying the mandrel. It seems to break the OD surface tension. I haven't Moly'd bullets since before the wet process came into vogue. I will give that a try on the next batch I run. I also dusted the inside of the necks with HBN, prior to seating and with the no-turn necks, it was like trying to push a nail into a board! I have experimented with increasing the dwell time on the mandrel but to no avail. I'm always open to trying a change in process if it helps and I'm ready to purge my Peterson brass if something doesn't give soon. We have a short, comfortable weather, shooting season up here. Hate wasting time and money.

Hoot

 

[L W P]

This is good information! I've struggled this past winter, trying to find a repeatable prep process that yields consistent neck tension with these Peterson brass for my 6XC. I recently had a bad outing doing a ladder test with a new bottle of H4350 (way hotter than previous bottle) and wound up pulling down some 110 SMK loads that I had rotary tumbled HBN into for 12 hours. Yes, 12 hours. Its cool down in my Air Conditioned house basement. Takes a long time to feel like the plating was successful. Anyway, when I pulled the bullets, they were scraped clean down to the bare metal. This was new, no-turn, Peterson brass with a .242 mandrel applied to them and they were still way too tight going in. I wasn't shocked to see them scratched coming out, ruined by my standards. I've had better results turning those Peterson .015 neck walls down to either .0135 or .014 before applying the mandrel. It seems to break the OD surface tension. I haven't Moly'd bullets since before the wet process came into vogue. I will give that a try on the next batch I run. I also dusted the inside of the necks with HBN, prior to seating and with the no-turn necks, it was like trying to push a nail into a board! I have experimented with increasing the dwell time on the mandrel but to no avail. I'm always open to trying a change in process if it helps and I'm ready to purge my Peterson brass if something doesn't give soon. We have a short, comfortable weather, shooting season up here. Hate wasting time and money.

Hoot

You might want to try the Imperial Dry lube kit on the virgin Peterson brass. Just dipping the necks of the brass ,in the components of the kit will help seat the bullet more smoothly. I usually dip 4-6 times and then wipe the outside of the necks off with a paper towel. But do try the "bullet scratch test" experiment of HBN versus Moly on a pulled bullet to see if your results are the same as mine. I was surprised to see the difference.

 

[338 dude]

You might want to try the Imperial Dry lube kit on the virgin Peterson brass. Just dipping the necks of the brass ,in the components of the kit will help seat the bullet more smoothly. I usually dip 4-6 times and then wipe the outside of the necks off with a paper towel. But do try the "bullet scratch test" experiment of HBN versus Moly on a pulled bullet to see if your results are the same as mine. I was surprised to see the difference.

 

[L W P]

You might want to try the Imperial Dry lube kit on the virgin Peterson brass. Just dipping the necks of the brass ,in the components of the kit will help seat the bullet more smoothly. I usually dip 4-6 times and then wipe the outside of the necks off with a paper towel. But do try the "bullet scratch test" experiment of HBN versus Moly on a pulled bullet to see if your results are the same as mine. I was surprised to see the difference.

I should have added that the dipping process, with the Dry Imperial Lube, would be done just before you mandrel size. Even re- dipping after mandrel sizing is a plus also. Just wipe off the outsides of the necks before you seat the bullets.

 

[L W P]

View attachment 1186289

Yep, That's the stuff. ^^^^^

 

[Hoot]

I bet I've looked at that kit at least a half dozen times but never found my wallet. Right now, I'm using a different kit with the different sized nylon bore brushes that are dusted with HBN. I dusted the inside of the neck both before the mandrel and then just before I put the powder in. While it makes a difference with the mandrel, not so much with the bullet seating using no-turn necks. I'm tumbling lube off of some new Tubb Peterson SRP cases that I turned down to .014 and ran through the .242 mandrel. I used Imperial wax with that mandrel job just to try something different. Much more smooth than the last time with the HBN, but with more clean up. Up to now, I've been using NOS Peterson cases I got from their local rep a couple of years ago. The Tubb Peterson cases have a slightly better finish overall and dimensions are a little tighter than the NOS ones I've been using up to now. I plan on re-starting my ladder test tomorrow. Its kind of a hasty pudding as my rich brother-in-law is taking me to his club on Thursday to do a friendly head to head competition. While he doesn't lack money for good gear, he does lack time to practice. Hoping to show him the 6XC light.
I may pick up that dry lube kit though I have 4mm SS media and Moly powder already. I'm a MacGyver / Walter Middy kind of guy.

Hoot

 

[Nude nut]

The method I use is put moly in container and dip neck then wipe outside of the neck.

cheers Trev.

 

[Nude nut]

you can see moly in neck.

cheers Trev.

 

[Ccrider]

I have played with HBN in an older 6ppc barrel. I have shot HBN right in front of non HBN covered bullets.

I have found that the HBN tumbled bullets lead to less copper fouling. The barrel also fouled slower and cleaned up easier using the HBN bullets, in a bore cleaned very well and then coated with HBN. The HBN bullets have slightly lower velocity. After initial fouling which takes 4 to 5 shots, the point of impact of my first shot from a cold barrel has generally been in the group.

The HBN bullets load a little more tighter than the non coated bullets. However, there has not been enough difference to show up on the target or require different size bushings.

Going from HBN to non HBN bullets, the first non coated bullet was out of the group. After that, the remainder of that 5 shot group, and the next 4 five shot groups shot as expected. There was a noticeable amount more of copper fouling with the non coated bullets.

Accuracy wise, the HBN bullets shoot as accurate as the non coated bullets. Overall, I see a benefit in shooting the HBN bullets in the older barrel with no significant down side. Less fouling, equal but not better accuracy. After shooting 250+ HBN coated bullets, I am satisfied enough with my results to try HBN coated bullets in a newly chambered barrel.

 

[mikecr]

You won't need prefouling with dry WS2 burnished into the bore. It's like the perfect universal fouling.
Someone mentioned that WS2 is hygroscopic. That's true. You need to clean it out after hunting, & luckily it comes out easy. I also do not store any guns in humid conditions, nor with any oils in the bore (they're always dry).

I coat bullets with WS2 also. To address potential water absorption, I have been giving exposed area of seated bullets a wipe with dry turtle wax neaded into a rag. Somehow this has not affected results with any detriment.
Keeps bullets dry through hunting trips as well.

 

[GotRDid]

4.5 years since post before yours?

 

[1shot]

4.5 years since post before yours?

Does that mean the information is no longer useful or valid?

 

[mikecr]

4.5 years since post before yours?

Yeah I don't know how it popped up in my alerts..
I wouldn't have replied if I had noticed that. Weird

 

[boltfluter]

Moly is still the one to beat for me and my hunting rifles.
Paul