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Anyone load for a 6.5creed AR10 ?

I've gotten great results in my LWRCI REPR MKII (6.5-CM AR-10) with Winchester StaBall 6.5 ... same works great in my Tikka bolt action 6.5. I got lucky, with the chambers in my AR-10 and BA rifle sized almost identically. Here's my favorite recipe ... with my 6.5-CM AR-10 shooting great out to (and beyond) 1,000 yards. It's not the cleanest powder, but it's super accurate and temperature stable, and I don't mind cleaning a little more often.

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H4350, RL16, and N555 are all good choices. IMR 4350 works just fine too. Haven't used the ball powders like Staball.

Some rifles really beat up brass with a max load of the above powders and 140's. Sometimes this can alleviated with lighter 120-130 gr class bullets. For example the 123 SST over 39.0-39.5 gr Varger is also an awesome combo.
 
You can pretty much load just like it's a bolt action, provided your gas system is the correct length to keep port pressure down, preferably a rifle +2 on a 22" or longer barrel, and that you're using a good bolt, JP or Toolcraft. Then they can do really well with higher doses of the slower burning options, and you're not married to H4350 or It's cousins like AA4350, Imr4350, N555, RL16, URP, SW4350, etc... You can use H4831sc, RL26, RL23, RL17, Staball 6.5, Ramshot Hunter, Superformance, etc..
 
IMR 4350 edged out the Hodge 4350 for me. At 40.8 gr with a Federal 210 or 210M, I crank it out and dump it in an ammo can to feed my buddy's LMT MWS 6.5
 
H4350 and Varget

Ive built and shot many 6.5cm gasser over the years. I prefer the 130gr pills, 130 Hybrids and 123L Scenars but 140s shoot great too.
 
You can pretty much load just like it's a bolt action, provided your gas system is the correct length to keep port pressure down, preferably a rifle +2 on a 22" or longer barrel, and that you're using a good bolt, JP or Toolcraft. Then they can do really well with higher doses of the slower burning options, and you're not married to H4350 or It's cousins like AA4350, Imr4350, N555, RL16, URP, SW4350, etc... You can use H4831sc, RL26, RL23, RL17, Staball 6.5, Ramshot Hunter, Superformance, etc..
So if I build a 22" or longer barrel I need a 2" longer gas block and the port size is the same? I ask because I tried to build one years ago and had nothing but problems. I could never load anywhere near where I wanted to be. The idea of loading up to levels approaching a bolt gun sound good.
 
The gas block is the same size, I do recommend using a .875 or .936 journal, a .750 is a bit small for a 22" imo. The part that's longer is the gas tube, and the gas journal is 2" further forward toward the muzzle. This reduces port pressure and port volume, in return it keeps from unlocking the bolt prematurely and slamming it rearward excessively hard. Imo the gas block should be adjustable as well, Superlative Arms is my choice. Also the buffer weight should be tuned correctly. In the case of a 6.5 Creedmoor with a 22" barrel and a plus 2 gas system, a standard rifle weight buffer will likely be what it needs, which is 5.7-6.1 ounces depending on the manufacturer. It could go a half ounce up or down from there possibly, you just have to watch your ejection pattern. Gas port size varies by manufacturer as well, but a .075-.085" port is ideal for that combination. If I were going shorter than 22" I'd opt for a .100" port when using a plus 2 gas system, because the dwell time has been reduced too much to keep the port volume up. Also, stay away from full power loads, if you don't use a JP or Toolcraft high pressure small firing pin bolt, it's safe to do it without these bolts, but you will destroy your brass in one firing. I've had 155 Bergers up over 3100, in my 26" +2 gas 308 with a Superlative Arms adjustable gas block, rifle weight buffer, and a JP bolt, using Leverevolution and CFE223, just seeing how far I could push it. I was using small primer Alpha brass, pre OCD, and never hurt a piece of brass or even began to take the coating off the bolt lugs. With ARs, bolt timing is the key to reliability and strength. The AR10 bolt, has more lug engagement than a Remington 700, so if it's timed correctly, it'll take a crazy amount of abuse. Not that I'm condoning anyone abuse their firearms.
 
260 rem not 6.5cm that is my Course match rifle. First two barrels were a 26" Kreigers now has a 28" Obermeyer. Gas port is 1.8" forward from standard. N150 shoots great (close to 4350 mentioned) but I found with the 142s I needed to go to 4831SC to get the velocity I wanted as N150 started showing pressure sooner. With 6.5CM being almost identical with the 140s I would maybe give 4831SC or N160 a try.
 
The gas block is the same size, I do recommend using a .875 or .936 journal, a .750 is a bit small for a 22" imo. The part that's longer is the gas tube, and the gas journal is 2" further forward toward the muzzle. This reduces port pressure and port volume, in return it keeps from unlocking the bolt prematurely and slamming it rearward excessively hard. Imo the gas block should be adjustable as well, Superlative Arms is my choice. Also the buffer weight should be tuned correctly. In the case of a 6.5 Creedmoor with a 22" barrel and a plus 2 gas system, a standard rifle weight buffer will likely be what it needs, which is 5.7-6.1 ounces depending on the manufacturer. It could go a half ounce up or down from there possibly, you just have to watch your ejection pattern. Gas port size varies by manufacturer as well, but a .075-.085" port is ideal for that combination. If I were going shorter than 22" I'd opt for a .100" port when using a plus 2 gas system, because the dwell time has been reduced too much to keep the port volume up. Also, stay away from full power loads, if you don't use a JP or Toolcraft high pressure small firing pin bolt, it's safe to do it without these bolts, but you will destroy your brass in one firing. I've had 155 Bergers up over 3100, in my 26" +2 gas 308 with a Superlative Arms adjustable gas block, rifle weight buffer, and a JP bolt, using Leverevolution and CFE223, just seeing how far I could push it. I was using small primer Alpha brass, pre OCD, and never hurt a piece of brass or even began to take the coating off the bolt lugs. With ARs, bolt timing is the key to reliability and strength. The AR10 bolt, has more lug engagement than a Remington 700, so if it's timed correctly, it'll take a crazy amount of abuse. Not that I'm condoning anyone abuse their firearms.
Thanks for your help. I was destroying brass in one firing.
 
Yeah, with improper timing and a run of the mill bolt, it's very easy to destroy brass in one firing. An adjustable gas block and tuning your buffer can help mitigate some of the brass damage, but in the end, having a longer gas system and the correct bolt, is the only fix that's not just a bandaid. I've actually kinda grown to hate ARs just from tuning so many and chasing brass. Hard to get one dialed in with a brass catcher involved, and I'm ocd about losing a piece of brass, so I chase it down or have someone watch. I've pretty much went back to tuning only 223, 6arc, 6.5 Creedmoor, and 308, occasionally I'll mess with others, but not very often, and typically only if I'm the one that built it.
 

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