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anyone bed a XLR element?

eric32

Shooting when I can
Silver $$ Contributor
i just took my rifle apart for the annual cleaning, i seem to have some uneven wear marks on the reciever.

was wondering if anyone has skim beeded a xlr chassis before?
 
When I still had my KMW (Terry Cross) Surgeon 308, I ended up with three stocks for it: M40A1, A5, and an AICS 2.0. Since the McMillans were bedded, I returned the Surgeon with AICS to KMW for skim bedding. I did not shoot it much unbedded so I didn't see uneven marks. I just somehow "felt better" knowing it was bedded.
 
Did the groups or shooting maintain consistent throughout the day with the bedding?
 
Yes, the groups were more consistent after bedding but I found the A5 tracked much better in bags so I didn't stay with the AICS very long.
 
Kyle at XLR is pretty meticulous about his CNC inlets. They are super accurate. They are not R700 and all other clones, they are specific to that action. My Bighorn TL2 XLR Carbon was not a drop-in for an R700 even though they are very similar. The tang and bolt handle were specific to that action (straight vs swept) and required fitting to change from one to the other. I have bedded an AICS and it was helpful, but I do not mess with my 2 XLR's, No need in my opinion. If you think there may be an issue, please reach out to XLR their customer service is excellent.
 
i dont know that i have an issue from the stock, i was just asking since i have seen proof that Mcree Stocks improve from bedding. In my mind i would think that it would apply to all metal chassis that dont achieve a 100% contact. With that being said no can trust remington to keep any sort of tolerances these days since i have a pretty new RR prefix action.
 
I have an XLR Element and so does my buddy. We both love them but found both had to be bedded. The issue was the pad for the rear action screw was too low and was bending the action. Mine was way too low and the rear action screw slowly built up torque over many turns. Now that we bedded the rears they go from finger tight to torque in a quarter turn or so like they should. The fit on the front of mine was so good it wouldn't really take any bedding material at all. Hope that helps.
 
how did you verify that before the bedding process?

when you did bed did you torque down the action to 65 in lbs while the bedding was curing or set the action with some surgical tubing?
 
I have 3 Savage Target actions in 3 XLR Elements. one 6BR and two .308's shooting 200 gr Hybids at 2675 fps. the targets are telling me no need to bed 'em
 
thats all fine and dandy, but you dont have anything to say that the XLR will not shoot better bedded or not.

i am going to check with XLR and see if they have a test to ensure contact throughout the action.
 
how did you verify that before the bedding process?
when you did bed did you torque down the action to 65 in lbs while the bedding was curing or set the action with some surgical tubing?
When I bedded my XLR, I torqued the front action screw and let the rear float. I'll bet the rear tang area took 30 thousandths minimum of bedding compound (and I'll bet it was more) and the front took zero.
 
I too bedded the rear tang of my xlr Carbon. Does it shoot better?,,, I can't say. Just didn't like the way the action climbed out of the chassis as the screw was loosened.
 
thats all fine and dandy, but you dont have anything to say that the XLR will not shoot better bedded or not.

i am going to check with XLR and see if they have a test to ensure contact throughout the action.


Ok. i had one Savage Action/Krieger 6BR barrel originally mounted in a Precision Rifle & Tool F Class Lowboy stock mounted in a bedded Whidden bedding block. shot great. took the the same action and barrel and mounted it in the XLR Element. shot the same.
 
well then that is a good news. i just tested my action in the stock and i believe to be getting alot of contact and the rear doesnt move when tighten the front screw. and the barrel lug seems to be in contact as well.

i am gonna let it ride
 

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