Anybody sprayed Duracoat on top of Rustoleum gray primer for a rifle stock?

[VaniB]

I'm planning on using the typical $5 spray cans of Rustoleum gray primer paint available at the Home Depot for my rifle stock finish. I'm figuring if that stuff is called "auto primer" on the can and should be good enough for automtive paints, then it should work OK with Duracoat, and not wrinkle or disolve when the Duracoat spray paint hits it.

I'll do a test piece first but was wondering if anybody's used the Rustoleum gray primer with Duracoat. (??)

 

[Hal]

What is the stock made of ?

Hal

 

[VaniB]

What is the stock made of ?

Hal

That is irrelevant. The question is whether a stock coated with a top finish coat of Rustoleum gray auto primer can resist being disolved, wrinkled, or penetrated by Duracoat paint. (The stock was already primed with Rustoleum.)

I'm already performing tests on some sample swatches to check the compatability and adhesion properties of gray Rustoleum primer with Duracoat. I will post the results here in the coming days...... in case anybody else cares to know for their own future projects.

 

[Nomad47]

I think Hal may be asking because wood contains moisture. And if you seal it well, you could get some bubbling when the moisture tries to escape.

 

[MLC81654]

No need for primer with dc.

 

[Hal]

The reason I ask is some paints are made to stick and flex with plastic.

Hal

 

[yenak]

I'd give Lauer Weaponry a call. I don't think you'll be happy with that combo.

 

[Uthink Uknow]

Hal is right. His question was very relevant. Not all primers stick to all surfaces. That is problem number one. Good call, Hal.

 

[VaniB]

Thanks for the input gentlemen, and no slight to you intended Hal.

I have recontoured and reshaped a solid birch wood stock. I recently completed the pillar and bedding phase and the stock is ready for finish. The stock is now composed of wood and auto body compound. Having built radio control planes and done other hobbies for 40 years, I have found that when shaping and contouring an object, the best way to be able to be sure that it is being sanded and contoured evenly on all sides during the finishing phase of the project (and to expose the imperfections while you work on it) is to highlight it with a uniform coat of gray pigment. Primer out of the can dries fast and sands easily during this touch and go process. Thus, my stock already has a light coat of gray Rustoleum primer.

Lauer could not recommend a primer, and only suggested I test the Rustoleum primer first. I'm rather surprised that they don't sell their own primer in any form!!! As in this case, not every project can be sand blasted or parkerized as if it was metal.

As mentioned in my last post, I intend to do tests first. I'll post the results, but I obviously will not know the long term results.

 

[sdneil]

Vani Recently( 6 mo ago ) did some reshapeing to a 40 x walnut stock using auto body filler , primed with Rustoleum lite gray auto primer, the boys in the paint booth( auto) painted it with urethane and clear coat, awsome finish, no problems, this may or may not help you...Neil

 

[Hal]

Van

Not a problem.
Post some picture when your done so we can see what it looks like.

Hal

 

[lloydx2]

Make sure substrate is fully cured. Maybe put in the sun for a couple of days. I personally would use 2 part (activated) primer over wood. It just depends on how picky you are. If you are putting a low sheen top coat on it. You wont see the woodgrain when it soaks up and fully cures. And it will with balm can primer