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Any magic to an AR barrel extension?

True, it was too rude and I was caught up in the moment. I should have said in order to time the groove you would need to do the following:
1. Precisely measure the twist to the supplied barrel since some manufacturers twist do slightly vary ever so slightly from advertised.
2. Very carefully calculate where on that barrel blank that you want that hole to end up. Now that you have that determined…
3. You will need to carefully measure from the hole to the tenon shoulder and turn your shoulder to match that distance.
4. All that was probably the easy part. Now the barrel would need to be threaded for the extension. Mind you, it needs to be threaded and timed so the extension, when torqued tight, is in alignment with the hole. Any honest machinist knows the variables and odds of that happening perfectly.
5. You’ll need it timed perfectly at top dead center to align with that tiny hole that’s currently inside the headstock of the lathe and not even visible. Any misalignment(1/2 a degree) and you’ve missed lining up with that tiny narrow groove, which could be different depending on barrel manufacturer; 4,5,6, grooves etc. Depending on the gas port hole size, it might be bigger than the groove itself. I’ve had a couple barrels from a major premium brand AR barrel manufacturer measure .128” with pin gages!!. When shinning a light down the barrel, you could clearly see the rifling on the other side when looking thru the hole!
5. You might be lucky, or it might be off a bit. You’ve got some options to try salvage your expensive blank: You can time the extension by removing a little shoulder (still need to tighten it up too,remember). But Arrgh… changing the shoulder changes your tenon-to-gas port length, so not a good option unless you only need several thousands.
Or you could take a fuzz off the front of extension(Arrgh…Hope you have another lathe), or maybe you keep a bunch on hand and try several hoping one is close enough. I’ve tried that before when trying to salvage a good barrel that had a bad extension. Since I usually have a bunch on hand and they do line up differently. It’s a pain.
But what if it lines up 7/8 of a turn off? And it will because you don’t want it to. You would need to turn the shoulder back 0.0546” to line it up. In this experiment .0005” error will mean you missed the alignment.(Arrgh…gotta calculate how far it will turn when torquing, remember). If you take that much off the shoulder, now that affects the gas tube depth into the bolt carrier, Arrgh. Since gas blocks a drilled at the same spec. And gas tubes are pinned at the same standard lengths, you typically don’t have much options there. There is some forgiveness in the port hole line up on gas blocks but .054” off is a bunch. So that’s not a good option either.
Maybe the hole wasn’t drilled yet and you carefully measured and marked out multiple options depending on how many grooves your barrel has. That would give you more chances to line up with. Hopefully those locations were indexed on the barrel where they can be seen and while barrel is in the lathe. Or maybe the barrel will be just removed and dialed back in a half dozen times while verifying line up, Arrghhh.
So with that option, now you will need to drill your hole based on that barrel extension’s torqued location. Any length variation or slightest error in rotation, and you’ll miss the groove. Remember, the average groove width, depending on groove count, is literally the same width as the hole you’re drilling, .070-.098 (We’re talking 16-20-24” barrels, not short carbines). The faster the twist, the less error you can have too. So any, ever ever ever so slightest error, and you’ve missed it and overlapped the hole! All that work, and it’s what? Scrap? Throw it in the “seconds” bin? No, off it goes to the customer without a concern, because you did everything else right, and that baby will shoot good regardless of the hole timing.

All that rant just to say, “manure”.
I’m not saying you can’t time the hole with the rifling. God bless those with the time and resources to do so. I’m saying it’s not economically realistic. What are you willing to pay for an AR barrel? There are a lot of variables working against you trying to time a gas port hole for no real benefit. The bullet has already been swagged to match the rifling before it gets to the hole, as long as the hole is burr free, that bullet is going to sail on by without damage.

Didn’t mean to be rude to the original poster of that comment, no judgement was meant to you. There’s just so much misinformation out there in the rifle world that some people are just lead to believe some of the craziest things without any real manufacturing knowledge or machining experience to know what’s truth or just some old guy telling you a story.
Sorry if I offended anyone. Believe what you want.
My opinion is it’s not practical to time gas ports and I haven’t seen a difference in the many I’ve done.
I don’t bother timing the gas port.
The gas port being your gospel that dictates the tenon is a hassle I’d like to avoid.
 
Lol, never said it was any better or worse as far as accuracy or function, but if a smith takes the time to locate it (usually done from the inside, much faster and easier) you can be sure everything else is going to be exactly as you expect. It's liking timing screw heads on a fine shotgun or rifle, attention to detail.
 
I also never said you HAD to put the gas port in the groove for the barrel to be accurate. But it surely doesnt hurt and shows a level of attention to detail when someone is doing it on every barrel they produce.

I have some extremely accurate AR barrels that the gas port isn't in a groove. But I also show much faster gas port erosion on some of those and some have blown out and hurt accuracy from the start.
 
Epic mic drop.

Could you share a starting point or basic process?
Hardly
I bet 1 in 100 AR barrels are timed, probably 1-1000 or 1 in 10,000

If I’m paying for an expensive AR barrel I’d except it.
Understanding that often the gas port is going to contact the land/lands anyways if it’s a bigger gas port like a mk12 or 300 BO shorty has.

It’s easy to find the spot to drill, I made something like a suppressor alignment rod with a brass button inlayed and profiled to follow the grove after that you must time the extension and muzzle device to the hole.
 
So in other words - Everyone is not doing it because it is not that easy.
It’s time consuming.
Especially if you’re not a seasoned pro.
Just like timing a muzzle, clocking the curve of a barrel or indicating both ends individually instead of between centers.
I timed a muzzle today to the gas port and I’m not even a machinist.

One factor about timing the extension o the port is you better take your time and sneak up on it.
It’s not an easy thing to fix if you blow it.



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So in other words - Everyone is not doing it because it is not that easy.
It's probably not so much that it's hard, it's that it takes more time. Time to make a tool and the time it takes to use it. Same indexing a fluted barrel. It takes time. At first it may not be easy but you figure out how you're going to lay it out and do it and then implement it, all of which takes time. Once you have your process down it's not so bad but it still takes time.
It’s easy to find the spot to drill, I made something like a suppressor alignment rod with a brass button inlayed and profiled to follow the grove after that you must time the extension and muzzle device to the hole.
 
The difference I see between timing a barrel to a bolt action receiver or muzzle brake and the AR barrel extension after the port is located axially and clocked to the rifling is in the case of the AR, you can't just move the face back to time it. You need to hit both the axial location and clocking with the first cut on the tenon.

It's 62 thou to the next time around. Not sure how close the end of the gas tube needs to land, but a whole turn seems to be a bit much.

You're at the mercy of the barrel extension clocking.

A 4 groove barrel that you know has a wide enough groove would be a better start than just picking your favorite bolt action barrel.

If drilling through a land is necessary, it'd probably be better to do it on the coast rather than drive side.

I've just drilled the ports where they landed on the AR barrels I've done for personal use on manual machinery. Now I'm intrigued.
 
The gas system on an AR is hardly something I would consider a precisely aligned arrangement. The number of times I have seen that black half-moon overlapping the gas port on the gas journal after removing the block and gas tubes worn down on one side from the gas key, yet they still functioned, is numerous. The old style free float tube that goes inside of a clamshell hand guard puts a .030" thick shim behind the FSB. Many of those sights also had windage screws to rotate the sight base around the barrel. Not once did anyone care about the gas port location when doing so.

No, being almost a full turn off with timing the extension is not likely to make things work, but then there was something else going on in your set up.
 
The gas system on an AR is hardly something I would consider a precisely aligned arrangement. The number of times I have seen that black half-moon overlapping the gas port on the gas journal after removing the block and gas tubes worn down on one side from the gas key, yet they still functioned, is numerous. The old style free float tube that goes inside of a clamshell hand guard puts a .030" thick shim behind the FSB. Many of those sights also had windage screws to rotate the sight base around the barrel. Not once did anyone care about the gas port location when doing so.

No, being almost a full turn off with timing the extension is not likely to make things work, but then there was something else going on in your set up.
Actually faxon has a adjustable gas block that moves the gas tube rearward into the bolt, travel rearward is at least .060.

It would be interesting to know the tolerance allowed in a TDP for that.
 

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