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another shoulder bump

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6bra 30.6 h4895 slight jam on 105, primers look good.

I'm starting to get bolt click at the top. I have 4-5 firings on my brass without annealing. I have been bumping .002 [HARRELLs DIE] should I try .004 or use a different die such as a .45 cal or 308 to resize the web, or just try annealing necks first?

your thoughts?

ty Don
 
I have been bumping .002 [HARRELLs DIE] should I try .004
For everything I size for I record the case head to datum where I can just feel the bolt close on that measurement. From that measurement I set my shoulder back either 0.001" or 0.002" depending on the particular rifle. When I just measure the fired case and set that measurement back 0.002" I find I am setting the shoulder back further than necessary.

You seem to considering several solutions to solve your bolt click problem. Why not just color the case exterior with a sharpie and find out where the interference is occurring and address that?
 
You seem to considering several solutions to solve your bolt click problem. Why not just color the case exterior with a sharpie and find out where the interference is occurring and address that?


Good idea. I blued 2 cases 1 with primer removed and 1 still in..
Both removed the bluing on the head face. Would this lead to the cases are taking a ff set and not springing back the necessary amount to have proper headspace to not click on eject? If so anneal or more headspace?

ty Don
 
I agree with several above. This is a body sizing issues, not a shoulder bump issues. Click isn't from shoulder issues, it’s from body/web issues. Or you’re over pressuring the load but it doesn’t sound like that’s the issue here.
 
I agree with those that have said that this is a sizing at the base of the case problem, not a shoulder bump issue. I am amazed that so many shooters do not measure their cases' body diameters at the shoulder and the .200 level before and after sizing....but it is true. Recently I saw a post asking about a die that he had, for a caliber he was using it for, apparently having never measured his cases before and after sizing. I am pretty sure that the shoulder diameter has nothing to do with your problem, but I like to know what my dies are doing to my cases, so I always do both. I do not think that using a die for a caliber with more body taper than the 6BRA to size your cases is a good idea. You either need a ring die or another, FL die that is smaller at the base. In some cases friends have used a 45 ACP sizing die for a ring die, but some of those dies do not allow this, without modification.
 
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go up 0.5 to 1.0 on the Harrell die....you need more sizing at the 200 line. All this assumes your die has been faced off 85 thou.

you really need to take accurate web od measurements using a micrometer...
after firing and after sizing. The numbers will show clearly what is happening.
 
I watch the body measurements before and after sizing as pictured below.
Just me of course
 

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Gary had the same problem a week ago, when he measured headspace on fired brass it varied considerably. After annealing his problem went away. Now he has consistent headspace on fired cases. Maybe more than one thing can cause bolt click? He will anneal away I'm sure. I know some anneal every firing and some never. I will be measuring and trying to pinpoint the problem.
I appreciate all the feedback from this fine group.

ty Don
 
I've become a little unsure about the benefits of annealing. With some experimenting, I've found my best groups are consistently on the 3rd firing after annealing using an Annie. One of my shooting buddies has an AMP and is seeing the same. It may extend brass life but for accuracy it hasn't worked out for either of us. If I have to shoot 2 times to get where I want accuracy wise, it's kind of useless from a monetary and barrel life point. Accuracy is best for me from brand new brass until about 5 firings. At that point, I can anneal, shoot twice and be back to it.

I've tried annealing every firing with poor results and so has my friend. We've both decided to just buy more brass and continue with this experiment. Excellent brass is cheap compared to burning up components and barrels. I usually see primer pockets going before anything else and annealing certainly doesn't affect that. Also, sizing is more consistent with the brass that is 2-3 firings after annealing. If the base has grown too much, not much will fix it and, again, brass is cheap in the big scheme of this sport. Sorry to derail a bit. Just MHO...
 
1 more question, is it normal to get some bolt click on a loaded round with the firing pin out, but not on the resized brass before you load it ?
 
Gary had the same problem a week ago, when he measured headspace on fired brass it varied considerably. After annealing his problem went away. Now he has consistent headspace on fired cases. Maybe more than one thing can cause bolt click? He will anneal away I'm sure. I know some anneal every firing and some never. I will be measuring and trying to pinpoint the problem.
I appreciate all the feedback from this fine group.

ty Don


I anneal all my competition brass every firing but have never had headspace cause clickers!... I’ve had it to tight and it was difficult to close the bolt, I’ve had excessive headspace where it wouldn’t fire but never a clicker that’s always for me been the base needing more sizing.
Wayne
 
I've become a little unsure about the benefits of annealing. With some experimenting, I've found my best groups are consistently on the 3rd firing after annealing using an Annie. One of my shooting buddies has an AMP and is seeing the same. It may extend brass life but for accuracy it hasn't worked out for either of us. If I have to shoot 2 times to get where I want accuracy wise, it's kind of useless from a monetary and barrel life point. Accuracy is best for me from brand new brass until about 5 firings. At that point, I can anneal, shoot twice and be back to it.

I've tried annealing every firing with poor results and so has my friend. We've both decided to just buy more brass and continue with this experiment. Excellent brass is cheap compared to burning up components and barrels. I usually see primer pockets going before anything else and annealing certainly doesn't affect that. Also, sizing is more consistent with the brass that is 2-3 firings after annealing. If the base has grown too much, not much will fix it and, again, brass is cheap in the big scheme of this sport. Sorry to derail a bit. Just MHO...

That is very interesting, I have had similar results in 6br, 308, and 6.5 since purchasing my amp annealer.
 

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