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Annealing with out machine

Thanks N'47! That's info I can put to use! Easy enough to stick some foam padding in a case that's tall enough to need it, where too short is a waste of money.
 
fm1947 said:
good that is what im doing with lights out, when the neck just starts turning red in drop in water

You probably don't need to drop in water. Plus... I like the neck to temp down a little slower... even though brass doesn't quench.... annealing is still a function of time and temp. I do set the case head in about 3/4" of water right after the torch to stop any heat transfer.... But I leave the neck pointed up.
 
As stated, water quench not needed for brass. I just drop processed cases into my NECO sieve which is set on blocks to allow for good air circulation. I don't have any way to quantify rate of heat transfer from annealed case shoulders down case walls but I don't think there's enough calories in those hot ends to propagate to the case heads in a negative way. They're cool enough to handle in about five minutes unless I run a large batch; for me that'd be 1000+ 308's.

I clean cases with the wet method so it wouldn't be a big deal adding another step where cases get wet but if I don't have to....
 
I`ve been using the Hornady kit for 3 years, and see no need to upgrade although it would be a nice addition. I recently have fine tuned my regimen and began lowering the flame more to the just below the shoulder/body. I see in a dark room more of a migration of the heat instead of the sudden change. This is much easier to get the desired effect for me. The migration theorem :)
 

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