Annealing VERY short brass

[Nvreloader]

Gabe 22 BR

The "Skip's design" will do those cases,
If your into DIY annealer,
waiting for my parts, I think the SLOW BOAT sunk,

Here is the site that has ALL the info,
LONG READ, but worth it,
READ it ALL the way thru.

Mozella shows a very simple device that works with the SKIPS annealer,
to do small short cases,
I'll see if that device works with my very short cases.

See info here:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/434088_DIY_Annealing_Machine.html

Tia,
Don

Is there an anealer that will do fireball to dasher size brass?

 

[Nvreloader]

Dusty

Thanks for the info,

I don't remember dipping the necks into powdered graphite,
but I do remember the lead sticking to the 06 cases,
when I started loading CB for everything I used.

Will have to see if this works.

Tia,
Don

 

[savagedasher]

Silicone mite be the answer for annealing with lead. Larry

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Or dipping them in oil

 

[savagedasher]

Or dipping them in oil[/QUOT

I think not . Oil ignites around 600 degrees
Depending on the type. Silicone was one of the last atoms to burn when the the planet was forum. Larry

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Well during my google search i found that oil kept lead from sticking. It burns it off. You should try it

 

[savagedasher]

Well during my google search i found that oil kept lead from sticking. It burns it off. You should try it

Did my cases turned black. Cooking oil didn't work Pam showed promise . You said that you did it . Did you or not? Larry

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Yes i did it. 5 yrs ago. No lead stuck to mine and they were perfect. I googled that to give you options.

 

[savagedasher]

Yes i did it. 5 yrs ago. No lead stuck to mine and they were perfect. I googled that to give you options.

Why then did you stop . I don't need or want to google . My mission is to make it work and pass it on to others. Larry

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Ok you probably shouldnt be doing this method. It worked for me and works for others. I have 2 annealing machines now and a ppc is as short as i need to anneal so im set. But if i needed to make any more of those pistol cases id form them and anneal them in my lee production pot with 90% lead. Then id tumble them and keep it moving. Anybody that wants to try it google is your friend. Lead doesnt stick to brass without flux.

 

[wvuredneck09]

Simple product out there that will keep the lead off, although between its fumes and the lead fumes you might want to do the whole project outside. If this stuff keep molten steel from sticking to the brass end on my mig gun i'm sure it would keep lead off of a brass case. Cleans off easily with no residue in its normal application as well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017Z5J1W/?tag=accuratescom-20

 

[wvuredneck09]

BTW a little goes a long way, I'd swab the inside with a q-tip and dunk the shoulder/neck.

Simple product out there that will keep the lead off, although between its fumes and the lead fumes you might want to do the whole project outside. If this stuff keep molten steel from sticking to the brass end on my mig gun i'm sure it would keep lead off of a brass case. Cleans off easily with no residue in its normal application as well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017Z5J1W/?tag=accuratescom-20

 

[savagedasher]

Ok you probably shouldnt be doing this method. It worked for me and works for others. I have 2 annealing machines now and a ppc is as short as i need to anneal so im set. But if i needed to make any more of those pistol cases id form them and anneal them in my lee production pot with 90% lead. Then id tumble them and keep it moving. Anybody that wants to try it google is your friend. Lead doesnt stick to brass without flux.

Lead will stick to any clean surface. Google stated that. So I want to find something that doesn't burn off with heat that seal the clean surface so the lead doesn't stick Larry

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Mica, graphite, oil and plain ole carbon from firing does it

 

[savagedasher]

This is for the guys that KNOW and UNDERSTAND annealing brass,

Here is what I am attempting or wanting to do,
I need to anneal 2 different sizes of brass,
the Hornet and 223 head diameters, for my WILDCAT case designs,
These 17, 20 and 22 caliber cases START with a .600" TOTAL CASE LENGTH,
and go to a total length of 1.400", for each caliber, 5+ cases per caliber series.

These .600" case lengths are causing me the most headaches,
the body length from case head to start of shoulder angle is .320" long,
(on the .600" length cases, in each cal,)
the shoulder angle is .080" long, which ends at .400",
then a neck length of .200".

As formed NOW,
I am at the start of the VERY THICK INTERNAL web of the case heads,
in the Hornet/223 brass types, for these short .600 case lengths,
neck thickness runs .015/.020" thick, depending on what cal being formed.

I have 1 lot of 10 cases, (17 cal) that have been reloaded/shot over 5+ times,
the shoulder angles are just now forming out to full chamber dimensions,
with the chamber pressures that are safe for the Hornet case,
15 gr @ 3000+ fps/18" bbl.

So, I think these cases need to be annealed??

My thoughts are at this time for annealing these cases,
is to use Mapp gas instead of propane gas,
as to quickly anneal and reduce the time required,
seeing the VERY SHORT case body lengths of .320".

Any thoughts, suggestions or Ideas,
on full annealing of these short case shoulder/necks,
without annealing the case head, is greatly appreciated.

Tia,
Don

If I can find something that stops lead from sticking to the cases I will hit you back . Lead you can anneal at any temperature you want and how far down the case. Larry

 

[wvuredneck09]

On the note of carbon from firing doing the job if the nozzle gel isn't a viable option for you there is a technique called smoking a shaft, no joke. This is done with an acetylene torch, no oxygen and allowing the soot to stick to a shaft before a babbitt (fancy lead alloy used in lieu of bearings) bushing is poured. Keeps the alloy from sticking to the shaft.

 

[wvuredneck09]

On the note of carbon from firing doing the job if the nozzle gel isn't a viable option for you there is a technique called smoking a shaft, no joke. This is done with an acetylene torch, no oxygen and allowing the soot to stick to a shaft before a babbitt (fancy lead alloy used in lieu of bearings) bushing is poured. Keeps the alloy from sticking to the shaft.

You can see this done at around 1:05-1:30 in this video

 

[savagedasher]

On the note of carbon from firing doing the job if the nozzle gel isn't a viable option for you there is a technique called smoking a shaft, no joke. This is done with an acetylene torch, no oxygen and allowing the soot to stick to a shaft before a babbitt (fancy lead alloy used in lieu of bearings) bushing is poured. Keeps the alloy from sticking to the shaft.

Thanks. Carbon burn off at the right temperature to bend aluminum without it cracking.
I had a feeling someone would have different opinions. Done deal .
Oh
I hope silicone works it's not as messy
Larry

 

[wvuredneck09]

The nozzle gel i still think would be the best bet and while i'm sure there would be some fumes i and other welders use it every day so i doubt its harmful in any way. Most welding shops will sell it as well as tractor supply company, and other farm stores.

 

[savagedasher]

The nozzle gel i still think would be the best bet and while i'm sure there would be some fumes i and other welders use it every day so i doubt its harmful in any way. Most welding shops will sell it as well as tractor supply company, and other farm stores.

My son work start fabrication shop . I like the idea of the gel .. Finally thanks Larry