Annealing question

[tenring]

I have been annealing Lapua brass about every 6-7 firings by the old hand method - low light, turned with a cordless drill and case holder until necks just begins to turn very slightly red; touchling tip of the flame to neck only; no water dip. Don't use Tempilaq, I count about 7 seconds, then drop case in a tin pan. I am using MAP gas. Any thoughts re whether a regular propane torch would be better?

 

[spclark]

MAP is pretty hot stuff so you need to watch very carefully.

I don't let my cases begin to glow but then I won't work in a darkened space with a lit-up torch. I do mine by time after watching a second-readout clock for the first few, watching for when the color change on the brass looks like new Lapua cases.

Time's about the same as what you suggest when I do 308 cases for Palma. Would have to be less - maybe a LOT less - when I do 6mm.

Would propane be more economical?

 

[260Ravage]

my tecnique is very sililar to spclark's. I do not use time at all ,,,I concentrate only on color. I heat the neck and shoulder till i get a 'quick blueish color'.
I did learn using a temp crayon,but graduated. I use the very familair propane torch with a pencil tip. I used to drop the cases in water,but now I drop them simply on a wet towel. I think I spelled tecnique wrong.

 

[RonAKA]

I have been annealing Lapua brass about every 6-7 firings by the old hand method - low light, turned with a cordless drill and case holder until necks just begins to turn very slightly red; touchling tip of the flame to neck only; no water dip. Don't use Tempilaq, I count about 7 seconds, then drop case in a tin pan. I am using MAP gas. Any thoughts re whether a regular propane torch would be better?

Your method describes what I would say is essentially ideal. 7 seconds might be a few seconds too long, but I think just getting the case and shoulder to the correct temperature as you do is the key point. I don't think it matters much what gas you use to get the job done. A higher heat means faster, and less risk that heat transfers down to the head of the case. But, propane works too, so it may be just a matter of cost. It is a pain to dump the case in water as you have to get it dry to move on to the next step in reloading. The other option is to drop the case on a damp cloth. It sucks the heat out without getting the inside of the case wet.

 

[Scott Harris]

Couple thoughts:
1. Not sure how you can be consistent by eye-balling things. If not consistent, then what's the point.
2. Without an indicator like liquik templilaq, how can you be sure you are: not over annealing, annealing enough?

With one of the current machines, you can precisely tune your annealing and make sure every case is done exactly the same. Anything less is not worth your time IMHO

 

[243Mendoza]

Couple thoughts:
1. Not sure how you can be consistent by eye-balling things. If not consistent, then what's the point....

I've used the manual method for years; I anneal cases to prevent neck splits and to return the ability to size case necks. It's consistent enough for my sport...NRA highpower and prone shooting; I don't know if it's consistent enough for benchrest.

 

[260Ravage]

scotharr.... You got my attention! Maybe I am not annealing correctly simply by eyesight. It works for me. My rifles will are capable of 3/4" groups at 300yds with these cases....wonder how how much better they could be if they were annealed correctly.
Terry

 

[HolyMeekrob]

I've been annealing by eye for a while because I don't want to drop the 300-400 dollars necessary to buy an automated machine, and I've been unable to see any negative effects on my groups.
My method is to simply start with very clean brass, which I think is arguably the most important step, then turn them about an inch from the tip of the flame (I found consistency was a problem when holding the case neck right against the tip) and each case gets a particular count, 3 seconds for my .223 cases for example, and I also look for what I can best describe as a secondary flame to begin licking off of the case neck (I have suspicions as to what this is, but don't know for certain so I won't speculate). This is my only visual marker, I don't judge by color on the case as I've found that different cases, usually from manufacturer to manufacturer, develop color differently and independent of the amount of time spent in the flame. Once I've reached these markers I don't pull the case out of the flame but back it away, which I find is when any color that will develop does, and then drop it in a container, no water quench.
I think that this is an acceptable method that seems to be very consistent. I use an arbor press and inline seater and once I've annealed the cases in this fashion, case to case seating feels consistent and buttery smooth. And again, I've never seen my groups open up as a result of annealing.