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annealing new brass

I do this all the time.

I use a lead pot for annealing and have for the past 40 years. I find it does a much better and uniform job over what a flame does.
 
I Anneal after every firing and of course you would do it before you size otherwise what is the point you soften brass and then work it if you work it without it being soft you get cracks
 
Not with Lapua brass...
Lapua anneals as a part of the manufacturing of the brass. So no need to anneal new Lapua brass.

Thanks

Adam

Jim O'hara was referring to lapua brass. While its annealed from the factory, apparently their mass produced methods have something to be gained by annealing ourselves first. As he said, annealing before blowing out to a dasher case, his split shoulder issue was all but removed. This can also be felt when expanding before turning necks.


Ever notice there's a few tight ones ?

If you have the equipment there's no reason not to do it.
 
I don't shoot the dasher so I have no knowledge there. I anneal after every firing, but i never anneal virgin Lapua brass; however, I always run a mandrel though virgin brass to make sure that the neck tension is appropriately set.

Thanks

Adam
 
I don't shoot the dasher so I have no knowledge there. I anneal after every firing, but i never anneal virgin Lapua brass; however, I always run a mandrel though virgin brass to make sure that the neck tension is appropriately set.

Thanks

Adam

The point is as Jim has demonstrated, the annealing from the factory has inconsistencies. He observed it by trying to solve his problem, split shoulders when fire forming into dasher brass. I also observed this. I dont shoot dashers anymore, but I find myself continuing to anneal before it ever hits the chamber. I did also notice a reduction in split shoulders when hydro forming for a friend, and I had annealed them before I started. If you have the equipment to do it, and you're doing it every firing anyways, why wouldnt you do it before the first one?
 
New brass shouldn't need it. Since most companies anneal it at the factory, if not all of them. Some companies just polish the cases so you can't tell they've been annealed.

If you must anneal new brass, I'd do it before FL sizing.
 
Lapua anneals as a part of the manufacturing of the brass. So no need to anneal new Lapua brass.

Thanks

Adam

At what point in the process does Lapua anneal? Just guessing but I would think it's before the first step in producing cartridges. If that is the case the cartridge is probably well on it's way down the work hardening path.
I anneal every piece of new brass, use only Lapua and anneal after every firing.
Easy peasy with an AMP!:)
 
At what point in the process does Lapua anneal? Just guessing but I would think it's before the first step in producing cartridges. If that is the case the cartridge is probably well on it's way down the work hardening path.
I anneal every piece of new brass, use only Lapua and anneal after every firing.
Easy peasy with an AMP!:)

Not sure at which point in the process annealing takes place - just sure that it does. Here is a link with more information: https://www.lapua.com/what-is-the-discoloration-on-my-lapua-brass/

Generally, I purchase 200 cases when I buy a barrel and i will re-use those cases for the life of the barrel. I just do not feel that its necessary to anneal the first time that brass is used. I don't have an AMP - I use a bench source vertex annealer and its a bit of pain to setup, so I wait till all 200 cases have been fired and then i anneal all at once. Want to trade annealing machines ? :)

Everyone has their own process.

Thanks

Adam
 
At what point in the process does Lapua anneal? Just guessing but I would think it's before the first step in producing cartridges. If that is the case the cartridge is probably well on it's way down the work hardening path.
I anneal every piece of new brass, use only Lapua and anneal after every firing.
Easy peasy with an AMP!:)

Cases have to be annealed several times during the forming process due to the amount of cold working...

https://www.petersoncartridge.com/our-difference/drawing-brass/
 
I realize that but is the brass annealed before the last step in the process, before the second to the last step?
Just saying that annealing when you buy it is cheap insurance, especially with an AMP>

It’s annealed when the amount of cold work has reduced the material’s ductility to the point that it would likely crack during the next forming operation. As the case reduction schedule is likely proprietary, and varies between manufacturers, it is not possible to definitively know when cases are annealed. I’m all for developing processes that work for each individual... best wishes with the AMP:D!
 
It’s annealed when the amount of cold work has reduced the material’s ductility to the point that it would likely crack during the next forming operation. As the case reduction schedule is likely proprietary, and varies between manufacturers, it is not possible to definitively know when cases are annealed. I’m all for developing processes that work for each individual... best wishes with the AMP:D!

My point, thus I anneal, takes about 10 minutes to anneal 100 6 Dasher cases.:)
 
I have found new factory brass both Lapua as well as others that sometimes are as hard as a mother-in-laws heart! There is no down side to annealing new brass and you will sleep better knowing you removed a potential variable.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd
 
At what point in the process does Lapua anneal? Just guessing but I would think it's before the first step in producing cartridges. If that is the case the cartridge is probably well on it's way down the work hardening path.
I anneal every piece of new brass, use only Lapua and anneal after every firing.
Easy peasy with an AMP!:)
Love my AMP! makes the whole process so much easier!
 

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